[whiskeyfed]

Originally Posted by geoffchad

I appreciate your effort here, but there's a big difference between radiant heat through air and direct contact. Heat transfer is a pretty good science, and there is a LOT of plastic in your engine bay that never has a problem (think all the wires everywhere, the connectors, etc).

At speed (or at idle) there is still some level of airflow through the engine bay as long as the fan is running or vehicle is moving, and even completely still with the hood closed there will be some level of local air convection around hot components.

Heck, you can stick your hand in an oven at 400F with the door open and leave it in there for a surprising amount of time - but touch the wall of the oven and you've got an instant burn.

If the heat truly were an issue, the plastic wiper cowl above the DP would hit it's glass transition temperature and deform/fatigue LONG before the oil would boil or the metal can would have any worry of it failing.

Like I said, I am no expert but wanted to say what was on my mind in case anyone else was thinking the same thing. Also, I did this video for other reasons, not just to mythbust ZZP lol. I was testing the engine bay component temps for a before and after turbo blanket installation.

However, you still need to touch the can to remove it. I guess you could avoid that by waiting until the car cools down. My "oil over the blanket" concern still stands however. Now, Steve says that it is further from the turbo than it looks, but it is too close for comfort for me.

[geoffchad]

Originally Posted by whiskeyfed

However, you still need to touch the can to remove it. I guess you could avoid that by waiting until the car cools down. My "oil over the blanket" concern still stands however. Now, Steve says that it is further from the turbo than it looks, but it is too close for comfort for me.

I've got the Mishi cans on an ATS so they're on opposite sides of the engine bay and they are still a PITA - they're too small and a royal pain to empty and you gotta let em cool down as the thread pitch on the cans is so fine that when hot they can gall the threads when hot.

I can see the concern of oil splashing when removing the bottom of the can to empty it if it's nearly full. Not likely, but possible. The can they use has a dipstick though, so you can at least check it regularly. If I got a blanket on the ATS, I'd probably try to see if I could get a sheetmetal cover for the blanket to protect it further. In the past I've had all of my downpipes and turbine housings coated by companies like SwainTech - and some coatings do a decent job of keeping the oil from sticking to the metal when it does splash around.

I'm curious what the ID of the threads are for the dipstick - you could easily go in there with a small evacuation canister and a tube and suck the thing dry without ever removing the bottom half, and THAT sounds like a great solution to me and way less headache.

Speaking of plastics and high temperature stuff, all of the NPT fittings in Mishi's kit along with their "Magic Tap" are ALL plastic and the tap threads into the valve cover - eventually the heat cycling and contact with hydrocarbons WILL cause it to become brittle and fail, which has made me nervous ever since I installed it.

[Jeringo]

Hey guys, I have a CTS 2.0 with the ZZP catch can for the Camaro on it. After some "spirited" driving the can only got to 100c but I could still touch it so I don't know if that is accurate.

[whiskeyfed]

Originally Posted by geoffchad

I've got the Mishi cans on an ATS so they're on opposite sides of the engine bay and they are still a PITA - they're too small and a royal pain to empty and you gotta let em cool down as the thread pitch on the cans is so fine that when hot they can gall the threads when hot.

I can see the concern of oil splashing when removing the bottom of the can to empty it if it's nearly full. Not likely, but possible. The can they use has a dipstick though, so you can at least check it regularly. If I got a blanket on the ATS, I'd probably try to see if I could get a sheetmetal cover for the blanket to protect it further. In the past I've had all of my downpipes and turbine housings coated by companies like SwainTech - and some coatings do a decent job of keeping the oil from sticking to the metal when it does splash around.

I'm curious what the ID of the threads are for the dipstick - you could easily go in there with a small evacuation canister and a tube and suck the thing dry without ever removing the bottom half, and THAT sounds like a great solution to me and way less headache.

Speaking of plastics and high temperature stuff, all of the NPT fittings in Mishi's kit along with their "Magic Tap" are ALL plastic and the tap threads into the valve cover - eventually the heat cycling and contact with hydrocarbons WILL cause it to become brittle and fail, which has made me nervous ever since I installed it.

I have the Mishi cans as well located on the passenger side of the car. They are not horrible to get out but it does take some hand squeezing. I haven't had any trouble getting them off, even immediately after driving. I guess since the heat myth has been busted, I'd only be worried about the oil then. Even when the cans aren't full, oil sticks to the baffle and drips when the can is removed. I guess anyone can argue that a little TLC can prevent oil from getting on the blanket but it is not worth taking a risk for me.

Previous post listed 100 degrees Celsius which is roughly 212f. That's not as hot as i expected but that would probably still burn your hand if you didn't wear gloves.

Final words: This setup is super duper extra clean and it looks phenomenal in the engine bay. If the can was not directly over my heat wraps and the downpipe, I would have one installed already. ZZP, you guys did a great job with this kit and the price point is unheard of if it lives up to expectations. I'd be worried if anyone running a blanket or a downpipe wrap puts this on though.

EDIT: Holy smokes I didn't look at the 2nd picture. The can looks like it is basically touching the o2 sensor and is about a hair away from the turbo heat shield. If the can doesn't burn ya, the o2 sensor, downpipe and/or heat shield certainly will. I am not sure if I mentioned this in this thread but I let my car sit with the hood open for almost 3 hours in 40f weather and the bolts for the heat shield were HOT through my gloves. If the car is totally cool (like overnight) I don't see it being an issue i guess

[Jeringo]

I'll give you guys a spill risk assessment after my first empty. Thing of note so far. The dipstick when on a cts cannot be removed without cutting the plastic cowl. An aftermarket downpipe gives about half a cm more clearance between o2 sensor and the can. I'm pretty sure this thing does not get hot, I just drove 2 hours and it's still only warm to the touch. Just for kicks and giggles I unscrewed it and only just burned myself. It didn't leave a mark thought. On other option for you turbo blanket folk, it's just a 10mm bolt attaching the can to the frame. That would allow you more room to empty. I might try and find an oil pump and see if I can maybe pump the oil out through the dipstick.