02-24-2020, 05:57 PM | #1 | |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: HOUSTON
Posts: 25
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13 zl1 1/4 time
For first time ever i took my 5th gen Z to the track this past friday, mods on the car are, headers, intake and tune and tires. car put down 499WHP.
i ran against a 392 charger same mods with same tire, here is the run, whats the best way to drop time of the 60 foot? ran 11.305 at 122.79 Last edited by BAXZL1; 02-24-2020 at 07:36 PM. |
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02-24-2020, 06:38 PM | #2 |
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Drives: 2022 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Aug 2017
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nice run! Thanks for sharing the video. Reaction time, torque, and traction are key to the 60'. Your R/T looks good, tough to tell, but I did not see much traction loss, so maybe it's time for more boost? Have you considered a pulley swap?
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02-24-2020, 06:58 PM | #3 |
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Same way you get to Carnegie Hall, practice practice practice.
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02-24-2020, 07:27 PM | #4 |
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A charger 392 (6.4L) is not a hellcat, it's a scat-pack. Mods may be same but scat-pack is n/a, not supercharged like a Zl1.
For faster 60 ft. times a stalled converter should get you to low 1.5 60'. If I were you I'd concentrate on that .623 reaction time, a car running 11.8 cutting a decent light is beating you. Leave on the third yellow, not the green. Reaction time has NOTHING to do with 60' time and will not improve it AT ALL. You can also shallow stage for a better 60' time.
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Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles. |
02-24-2020, 07:44 PM | #5 | |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: HOUSTON
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Not worried about reaction, just trying to get my ET down
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02-24-2020, 07:55 PM | #6 |
Drives: Camaro 1LE Join Date: May 2018
Location: USA
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Reaction time has nothing to do with your 60 ft time. The little trick for better 60 ft time without changing a thing is to just "tickle" that bottom stage light. As for not caring about r/t, how do you expect to go rounds with that?
Last edited by Silveradoss573; 06-02-2020 at 11:23 AM. |
02-24-2020, 07:57 PM | #7 | |
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Footbrake it as far as it will go with the stock converter just before it overrides the brakes, you can sit at the green light till you get it right. Then at the same time, release the brake and push gas pedal to the floor & hold.
ET's are nice, reaction times win races. You can also improve your ET's without any mods or spending any money. Remove passenger seat, 2 bolts t-50, remove rear seat, 5 bolts, 1-18mm and 4-14mm. Remove floor mats, trunk carpet, lid over battery, air compressor. Also run as much air as possible in rear tires, if you hook at 18psi, go up to 20, if you still hook go up to 22. The more air you can run in the rears, the faster you will go. Track prep has a lot to do with this, the better the prep the more you can run. Run front tires 5 psi shy of max allowable, this creates less rolling resistance, making you faster.
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Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles. Last edited by Joe M 2012 2SS; 02-24-2020 at 08:15 PM. |
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02-25-2020, 09:01 AM | #8 |
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That's a fair 60ft time. What did you do at the launch? Straight punch? It looks like it can take a little more power out of the hole. Either harder on the gas or we can help adding some power. We have plenty of pulley options, ported blowers and more. It's easy to make power with an LSA
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02-25-2020, 09:28 AM | #9 |
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Tip #1, don't double bulb.
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02-25-2020, 09:50 AM | #10 |
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That was an awesome video! How many car lengths did you have him by? I couldn’t tell from the angle of the camera.
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02-25-2020, 11:41 AM | #11 | ||
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02-25-2020, 12:37 PM | #12 |
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02-25-2020, 01:15 PM | #13 |
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Id rather do your mom but she’s packed on a few too many pounds for my liking
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02-25-2020, 01:27 PM | #14 |
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