[vararam industries]

Stay tuned !

VR tech

[ULTRAZLS1]

Originally Posted by OneSlowV

Care to share a pic of your setup I have the RotoFab more fresh air sounds nice .

I never took any at the time and I have to remove quite a few things to even get a good pic. A pic from the front through the grill won’t show you much at all

Message pray he can give you pics and details.

[vararam industries]

[6spdhyperblue]

Nice. As long as it’s ready for spring time I’m sure these guys will be happy

[danhr]

Originally Posted by ULTRAZLS1

Can’t believe nobody is taking advantage of bringing in air through the upper grill. You can take it direct to the air box. So obvious. Me and several others have made scoops ourselves. And got legit gains

VR... do you have any plans to incorporate such an idea with your cai? I would love to have a cleaner option bolt in and go than my home made option. And I’m sure you guys coukd design a more optimal scoop etc

X2 on this one. Vararam was always known for their OTR setups.... when i came into this thread, it's what I was hoping to find. Not saying that I dont think this intake will perform, because it very well should.

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by danhr

X2 on this one. Vararam was always known for their OTR setups.... when i came into this thread, it's what I was hoping to find. Not saying that I dont think this intake will perform, because it very well should.

An add on later?

The video show a version 1 & 2. Are both going to be available or were they revisions?

[Indyblue98]

Originally Posted by oldman

the only valid test is to dyno the aftermarket unit first, the put back the stock unit. Basically all OEM engines built will make slightly more free load HP if slightly leaner from OEM calibration. My 02. You just have to ready sledge's complete x2 review and you will know all you need to know.

Been asking for this type of answer since I bought a 2012 2SS

[vararam industries]

WE intentionally left some items out of the video pics guys.

FYI: Our DRX Gen5 unit dominates on Power, Torque and at the track for both N/A and ZL-1's .
You don't have to go over the Radiator to achieve over 100%VE at specific RPM points to boost Power and Torque under the curve.

DRX's make on average 10-12Hp more from 4,800-6,000RPM on stock cars. Modified cars see 15-20hp + to over 7,300RPM. Again, NOT an OTR. see (Gen5 Forum )

What we are known for is creating the most powerful, best performing induction systems for each application we produce an intake for. WE never rush anything and we do our R&D like no other.
That's why We will be guaranteeing gains over other intakes.

To be honest ,as we have said previously, the existing crop can be outrun using a modified stock air-box. It wasn't hard.
Personal note: It took me 5min to do it on both the LT-1 and ZL-1. Hell the ZL-1 even gained more Boost than when using one particular aftermarket intake.

These are "On Road" tests, so hood down driving as the car was designed to be used. Not sitting on a dyno with the hood open increasing filter plenum volume with a fan blowing into the filter to help increase filter flow.
The next update will show you part of the reason why.

Personal Note 2 :
I am assuming by now that you guys have realized most are smaller than factory ?

VR tech

[PRAY]

VR,

I am down to test one. I have the only 9 Sec H/C SBE A8 car right now and I am running the RF dry. I ran your products on all of my Vett's. I too was hoping that you guys would produce an OTR CAI but I see the difficulties with it.

I published a test on here a while back with a modded out stock CAI vs the RF dry at the track and the modded out OEM lost. We even tested it with the stock elbow.

I am down to test anything in a real world situation. Let me know what would suit your needs best and I will do it. I am known for detailed testing and posting results regardless of the outcome. I only care about going faster and right now the RF dry is the king of the hill.

Glad you guys are getting in the game. It only makes everyone better with more competition. Let me know.

[danhr]

I will be the first to admit I do not know if my RF dry is smaller than the factory elbow or not. Might just be a force of habit for me to go out and get an intake for a car.

I have until feb/march until I commit to my ram air setup..... so I will wait for results until then. You guys have always been known for putting out very good products, that blow the competition away.

[chozn4service]

I had the Vararam on my 2010 and loved the design and how it pulled Air from over the radiator and it was the shortest direct method of travel to the intake. Of course in the SixGen the grill is smaller and could be a nightmare going that route.
I’m always looking for what’s best and what works so I’m open to change.
Looking for the end results, numbers and impressions.

I know for myself having a Cold Air Inductions box and doing shows and such, I personally like the glass top to show the filter. Just me, I like the option of viewing the filter. ijs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[vararam industries]

Originally Posted by PRAY

VR,

I am down to test one. I have the only 9 Sec H/C SBE A8 car right now and I am running the RF dry. I ran your products on all of my Vett's. I too was hoping that you guys would produce an OTR CAI but I see the difficulties with it.

I published a test on here a while back with a modded out stock CAI vs the RF dry at the track and the modded out OEM lost. We even tested it with the stock elbow.

I am down to test anything in a real world situation. Let me know what would suit your needs best and I will do it. I am known for detailed testing and posting results regardless of the outcome. I only care about going faster and right now the RF dry is the king of the hill.

Glad you guys are getting in the game. It only makes everyone better with more competition. Let me know.

I have no idea how you modified the stocker. I have a specific version that is super simple and always works But:
What matters is did you data Log how the ECM reacted to your modified car with the R/F intake that you tuned it on or that your tune was set up for vs the stocker ?
The stocker would have required MAF , ignition timing , cam timing and AFR adjustments because your custom tune has commanded numbers for MAF, Timing, Cam timing and AFR etc.. . Also you have to check the actual TPS on the throttle body to make sure it opened as it should to WOT. (People miss this one all of the time.)
They rarely do on back to back runs . Just 1.2-1.5% less throttle position will cost you 2 deg of timing, 1.6 -1.8 deg of cam timing and the AFR will richen up accordingly. They do it almost every time you make substantial changes in airflow.
I have almost 400 Log files of ZL-1's and LT-1's in stock tune and custom tune form, I mean I have Vettes and Tahoes too. They all do it.

Everything has to be data logged to determine if you actually made a real world gain or not. The days of back to back testing and just looking at an AFR or time slip are dead .

The tune would be completely wrong if all someone did was switch them out and not completely retune to the new combination.
The velocities and volumes are completely different. The ECM will have detuned the car because the MAF/ HZ numbers in the custom tune will have dropped below the Commanded numbers.

This is NOT because of LESS flow but because the velocity across the MAF had dropped ,yet volume would have been higher.
A MAF has NO idea what volume is , its simply a volt meter that outputs to HZ. It's placement /depth ,the bore diameter it sits in, the aero package in front of it and behind it etc.. will all affect how it reads and how it scales up as the RPM's rise.

Those who test tune for tune and are honest about it, will show you minimal gains and I mean very minimal on a stock car.

You can see we tested with an OPEN AIR HORN and that smoked everyone by strong margins ! The car wouldn't stay running, it wanted to die because it had no velocity at low RPM/idle. After 1,250RPM it was fine and after 2,800 RPM it was a beast.

More volume/Bigger hole = less velocity when using the same air pump/engine , with the same aero package.
Just like a choke on a Carb , close it down and it runs ,go to WOT without opening the choke and it starves. There is a balance that has to be achieved for the engine and a balance for the ECM. Those two don't always go together .

Hopefully this wasn't to long winded for everyone to read.


Send me a Link to your test
VR tech

[Buckscamaro]

Originally Posted by vararam industries

I have no idea how you modified the stocker. I have a specific version that is super simple and always works But:
What matters is did you data Log how the ECM reacted to your modified car with the R/F intake that you tuned it on or that your tune was set up for vs the stocker ?
The stocker would have required MAF , ignition timing , cam timing and AFR adjustments because your custom tune has commanded numbers for MAF, Timing, Cam timing and AFR etc.. . Also you have to check the actual TPS on the throttle body to make sure it opened as it should to WOT. (People miss this one all of the time.)
They rarely do on back to back runs . Just 1.2-1.5% less throttle position will cost you 2 deg of timing, 1.6 -1.8 deg of cam timing and the AFR will richen up accordingly. They do it almost every time you make substantial changes in airflow.
I have almost 400 Log files of ZL-1's and LT-1's in stock tune and custom tune form, I mean I have Vettes and Tahoes too. They all do it.

Everything has to be data logged to determine if you actually made a real world gain or not. The days of back to back testing and just looking at an AFR or time slip are dead .

The tune would be completely wrong if all someone did was switch them out and not completely retune to the new combination.
The velocities and volumes are completely different. The ECM will have detuned the car because the MAF/ HZ numbers in the custom tune will have dropped below the Commanded numbers.

This is NOT because of LESS flow but because the velocity across the MAF had dropped ,yet volume would have been higher.
A MAF has NO idea what volume is , its simply a volt meter that outputs to HZ. It's placement /depth ,the bore diameter it sits in, the aero package in front of it and behind it etc.. will all affect how it reads and how it scales up as the RPM's rise.

Those who test tune for tune and are honest about it, will show you minimal gains and I mean very minimal on a stock car.

You can see we tested with an OPEN AIR HORN and that smoked everyone by strong margins ! The car wouldn't stay running, it wanted to die because it had no velocity at low RPM/idle. After 1,250RPM it was fine and after 2,800 RPM it was a beast.

More volume/Bigger hole = less velocity when using the same air pump/engine , with the same aero package.
Just like a choke on a Carb , close it down and it runs ,go to WOT without opening the choke and it starves. There is a balance that has to be achieved for the engine and a balance for the ECM. Those two don't always go together .

Hopefully this wasn't to long winded for everyone to read.


Send me a Link to your test
VR tech

can't wait for this intake to come out patiently waiting

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by vararam industries

I have no idea how you modified the stocker. I have a specific version that is super simple and always works But:
What matters is did you data Log how the ECM reacted to your modified car with the R/F intake that you tuned it on or that your tune was set up for vs the stocker ?
The stocker would have required MAF , ignition timing , cam timing and AFR adjustments because your custom tune has commanded numbers for MAF, Timing, Cam timing and AFR etc.. . Also you have to check the actual TPS on the throttle body to make sure it opened as it should to WOT. (People miss this one all of the time.)
They rarely do on back to back runs . Just 1.2-1.5% less throttle position will cost you 2 deg of timing, 1.6 -1.8 deg of cam timing and the AFR will richen up accordingly. They do it almost every time you make substantial changes in airflow.
I have almost 400 Log files of ZL-1's and LT-1's in stock tune and custom tune form, I mean I have Vettes and Tahoes too. They all do it.

Everything has to be data logged to determine if you actually made a real world gain or not. The days of back to back testing and just looking at an AFR or time slip are dead .

The tune would be completely wrong if all someone did was switch them out and not completely retune to the new combination.
The velocities and volumes are completely different. The ECM will have detuned the car because the MAF/ HZ numbers in the custom tune will have dropped below the Commanded numbers.

This is NOT because of LESS flow but because the velocity across the MAF had dropped ,yet volume would have been higher.
A MAF has NO idea what volume is , its simply a volt meter that outputs to HZ. It's placement /depth ,the bore diameter it sits in, the aero package in front of it and behind it etc.. will all affect how it reads and how it scales up as the RPM's rise.

Those who test tune for tune and are honest about it, will show you minimal gains and I mean very minimal on a stock car.

You can see we tested with an OPEN AIR HORN and that smoked everyone by strong margins ! The car wouldn't stay running, it wanted to die because it had no velocity at low RPM/idle. After 1,250RPM it was fine and after 2,800 RPM it was a beast.

More volume/Bigger hole = less velocity when using the same air pump/engine , with the same aero package.
Just like a choke on a Carb , close it down and it runs ,go to WOT without opening the choke and it starves. There is a balance that has to be achieved for the engine and a balance for the ECM. Those two don't always go together .

Hopefully this wasn't to long winded for everyone to read.


Send me a Link to your test
VR tech

Good tech data, nice to see someone else that understand what is going on in the motor and how to tune for it. And to answer your question, I log everything you said. My tests are fair and honest every time. I don't care who makes the product, I only care that it makes the car faster. I analyse the data and make changes.

In my RF vs stock testing both set ups were maximized on the dyno. My car came in tuned on the stock set up and then I switched to the RF and actually went back to the stocker just to verify the test. I also sealed the RF top to simulate the hood being closed. It actually made more power that way. For the track testing we did on the bolt on car, we had at least a hundred passes on the stock modified CAI. So it was as dialed in as it could be. We swapped the RF on and made some passes with no tuning to benefit the RF as you suggested was required and the car simply went quicker and faster in higher DA.

You have 400 dyno runs, I have at least that and over 400 track passes on just my car just this year. Not to mention the thousands of passes on my customer cars. Trust me, a degree of cam timing here or spark timing there or tenth of afr everywhere doesn't make a difference large enough to effect anything where it matters. In a real race. So saying that dyno testing and track testing don't mean anything is a little silly. No one has ever lost a race and then told the other guys they are happy about it since their computer told them that they made more power. It is actually disheartening how large of changes you can make to these cars and not make them go any faster at the track. The DI motor is another animal. But I do have a couple questions.

With what you stated with everything that has to be changed to make a fair CAI test, will your CAI require a tune?

Will guys still see gains without a tune?

What gains can be expected once tuned properly?

And back to my original question, are you willing to send me one for real world, unbiased, track testing? I will log all the data you want and make the proper adjustments to go as fast as I can with your product. That is fact. I have at least five different cars in different forms of mods at my finger tips.

Let me know.