08-20-2013, 02:11 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 SIM 2SS Camaro Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Dacula GA
Posts: 218
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Thinking my clutch is going?
Ok, so I've had plenty of manual cars, but I always traded them before I needed a clutch.
The engagement point is nearly at the top of the pedal, no slipping yet. this is recent and I really noticed it after the dealer replaced my rear brakes. I know the clutch and brake system share the same fluid, etc...not sure if that points to anything. Only have 48k on the clock So if it seems to be the clutch...what do you guys suggest? I like the stock feel, firm but not stiff enough to give me a workout. I have no plans at the moment for increasing HP and would like to keep my stock warranty. Thanks |
09-02-2013, 04:40 AM | #2 |
Drives: 2010 ss. 1990 RS the faster one. Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando
Posts: 549
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My car has 38k on it. My engagement point is definitely higher than it was when I first got it. You can always wait until it starts to slip to get a new one. If you like the stock clutch then that is your best option for a replacement.
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Vararam, XS Power longtubes and exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers, 1LE gears, Vengeance Racing spec'd comp cam with all supporting valvetrain upgrades, Melling Pump. QTP cutouts. 480rwhp.
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09-02-2013, 06:00 AM | #3 | |
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Drives: TAMPA TUNING FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Tampa, Fl
Posts: 3,044
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Quote:
Kids got you up early this morning lol. How's the car been running? |
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09-02-2013, 09:00 AM | #4 |
2016 Camaro 1LT 2.0T
Drives: Nemesis Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 844
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You said they changed your brakes? Did they happen to also bleed them thoroughly inside and outside of calipers?
Same thing happened to me so I bled them myself and voila, my clutch was firm and back to normal. I don't think they knew about the interior bleeders. I'm a 57k miles and the clutch is still good. |
09-03-2013, 05:23 PM | #5 |
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Drives: 2014 SS Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet, TX
Posts: 744
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If you find out the clutch is the problem as the engagement would be lower if there is air in the system and you decide to replace it, take a look a look at our Level 1 clutch which will hold more power than a LS7 yet only increase pedal effort 8%. Are you the original owner of the car? Clutch life is the same as brakes or tires, it really depends on the driver. If you have any questions don't hesitate, Chris 817-750-2000
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09-08-2013, 04:28 PM | #6 | |
Drives: 2010 ss. 1990 RS the faster one. Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando
Posts: 549
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Quote:
To the op: my concern for your car and clutch replacement is longevity. I will be in the market for a clutch in about a year. I understand that there is no "free lunch" and I love my stock clutch when I'm driving to and from work every day but want to set the car on fire whenever the clutch pedal sticks to.the floor at the track. I figure my stock clutch will get me to 50-60kmiles. I'd be happy with a performance clutch that lasted 25k miles. The clutch company's don't really seem to get into longevity due to many variables in driving. I am an auto guy and this is my first manual trans car. I'm also a tech and have replaced many stage3-5 type clutches of varying brands after the customer has killed it with street driving after 8-10k miles. At my dealership we will install what you bring us or will gladly install an ls7 or stock clutch.
__________________
Vararam, XS Power longtubes and exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers, 1LE gears, Vengeance Racing spec'd comp cam with all supporting valvetrain upgrades, Melling Pump. QTP cutouts. 480rwhp.
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09-09-2013, 02:27 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2018 ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,372
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Ive noticed with 30000 kms on my car that my clutch as seems to be slipping. It burns and stinks a lot, but It will hold the car on a hill. What concerns me is that if I try to do a burn out and pop the clutch, the tires will burn but so does the clutch....it really stinks.....not sure why this is happening.
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DAVENPORT STAGE 2 PLUS - 2" ARH ceramic coated headers - 3" ARH catless exhaust - Stock NPP mufflers - Kong ported SC - Katech 103 ported TB - Rotofab 5" Big gulp CAI - 22.5% lower pulley - ATI Harmonic balancer - Cordes SC expansion tank - MSD hi temp ignition wires - Koolsox spark plug insulators - custom tunes - 660hp/725tq pump - 713hp/763tq race
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09-09-2013, 05:31 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 ss. 1990 RS the faster one. Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Orlando
Posts: 549
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I'd replace clutch, slave/actuator and the flywheel.
__________________
Vararam, XS Power longtubes and exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers, 1LE gears, Vengeance Racing spec'd comp cam with all supporting valvetrain upgrades, Melling Pump. QTP cutouts. 480rwhp.
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09-09-2013, 06:50 PM | #9 | |
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Drives: 2014 SS Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Haslet, TX
Posts: 744
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09-09-2013, 07:35 PM | #10 |
Are your rpms increasing even though your speed is staying the same while on the throttle?
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09-10-2013, 11:00 AM | #11 |
Drives: 2018 ZL1 A10 Join Date: May 2012
Location: British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,372
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Making 420 rwhp and rpms and speed are proportional to each other. I am confused by this as I don't ride it and I don't do burn outs very often....sure I have smoked it once or twice in stop and go city traffic on steep hills, but it is not a habit. Was playing with 2 other cars on the weekend that are evenly matched and we all performed the same. My clutch is at the top of the pedal and always has been...which is where I like it.
__________________
DAVENPORT STAGE 2 PLUS - 2" ARH ceramic coated headers - 3" ARH catless exhaust - Stock NPP mufflers - Kong ported SC - Katech 103 ported TB - Rotofab 5" Big gulp CAI - 22.5% lower pulley - ATI Harmonic balancer - Cordes SC expansion tank - MSD hi temp ignition wires - Koolsox spark plug insulators - custom tunes - 660hp/725tq pump - 713hp/763tq race
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