[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

No lift shifting does not overcome gearing.

Not sure why so much weight is put into this unless it's strictly about the 1320 or something but IMHO on the street unless you're racing your buddy in the exact same setup but M6 vs A8. Who cares!. Centri or PD is going to be a blast to drive either way and going to get the job done which is what it boils down too. Both will likely be fighting to maintain traction (tad bit worse for the PD though)

With that said the OP sounds like he may best suited with the PD setup anyway.

The point I was addressing regrading NLS was the boost drop you mentioned on shifting.

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by oldman

With every bolt on available, no lift shifts were getting kind of tricky with the rear able to squirm maybe 2 ft, that was 3/4 lower in the back and 220 wear summer ultra performance tires.

I have not tried no lift shift with my current set up, even lifting and shifting I can NOT apply WOT in 2nd gear, it is a slow lay on the throttle to 70 MPH. I currently have 3/4 down in the back with springs, 275mm PS4s.

Once again on my setup, the throttle has to be feathered to 70 MPH, so IMO any torque above that is not usable.

The OP is on a M6 and "reasonable tires".

I would absolutely love to see a street tire, regular open road run from a PD guy and an A8 applying WOT upto 70 MPH, the OP said 60 MPH. Look I'm sure it is doable, because clearly the whipple owner in the thread below is on conti contacts and he has an M6!!!! I'm still confused on how it is done. I have maybe 1000 blast thru the first three gears looking for the optimal launch, on the 3rd set of tires... soon 4th set. My GTech is getting old and and the new one with GPS is on my Santa list. So long story short, there is at least one M6 that is able to hook plain street tires to the ground. Dunno... I'm sure the track prep is helpful but even there.

Read Fauxm's Big Red build he is still about the same speed / time with 17" drag radials over stock ZL1 tires. I admit I'm a little confused. I will have to make a tire decision before next summer, looking at least to 19" with 205s made RE71R which I have always liked.

I tend to use NLS on rolls. 3rd gear and up. No issues with good tires there.

Im sure if I tried NLS in 1st or 2nd I'd find myself suddenly heading the wrong direction.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

I tend to use NLS on rolls. 3rd gear and up. No issues with good tires there.

Im sure if I tried NLS in 1st or 2nd I'd find myself suddenly heading the wrong direction.

You and me both, I old and I'm scared to try... NLS 1st to 2nd,

[misterjaayy]

The LT4 blower is a better value than maggie or whipple depending on your power goals. Its almost all GM parts and has a stock look. Just something to consider but can't go wrong with any PD setup for low end torque.

[USAFS197]

I have no idea how you guys are keeping your tires planted on some of these stock tire setups. Lol. I'm sure it is careful right foot modulation but, even with just bolt ons, I can't stab the throttle in a first gear roll unless I want to purposely spin the tires. A NLS from 1-2 at this power level causes me to fish tail badly. All of this leads me towards a progressive build in power, like that of a procharger. I couldn't imagine adding another 100 torque to my car when full boost is available at 2k rpm. That would be an interesting drive for sure. I imagine that even with 1/4 throttle, it'll spin in first on an M6.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Not sure why so much weight is put into this unless it's strictly about the 1320 or something but IMHO on the street unless you're racing your buddy in the exact same setup but M6 vs A8. Who cares!. Centri or PD is going to be a blast to drive either way and going to get the job done which is what it boils down too. Both will likely be fighting to maintain traction (tad bit worse for the PD though)

With that said the OP sounds like he may best suited with the PD setup anyway.

The point I was addressing regrading NLS was the boost drop you mentioned on shifting.

Your still missing the point and not understanding power under the curve. Both setups drop back to 4700rpm on a 6500rpm gear change. Now go to both Dyno graphs and look at where the power is at that RPM. In theory you can spin the Procharger higher being it makes power out to 7k but I'm not sure I would trust a stock valvetrain LT1 that high. Anyway, This applies to drag or roll racing where gear changes are made. The Maggie has much better power under the curve so soon as a gear change is made the Maggie will pull. Now take a stalled A8 car and the Procharger is going to have the advantage because after the gear change RPM is still up around 6k and the Peak power advantage the Procharger has will show it's advantage.

I agree that both setups will be fun either way. Prochargers also run cooler if you go with a bigger head unit then the P1SC. There are advantages to both.

[ShizzySupra]

Looked at a lot of graphs and unless someone has a VERY aggressive top end cam/intake manifold/etc combo....the peak power of my Magnuson is almost dead on with a Procharger.

People act like the PD blowers peak at 5800 then die off....

Originally Posted by KingLT1

change RPM is still up around 6k and the Peak power advantage the Procharger has will show it's advantage.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

Looked at a lot of graphs and unless someone has a VERY aggressive top end cam/intake manifold/etc combo....the peak power of my Magnuson is almost dead on with a Procharger.

People act like the PD blowers peak at 5800 then die off....

Where did I say they die off at 5800?

I should of worded that differently...on a A8 they are pretty much even...Procharger normally makes a little higher peak number as it will keep building boost with rpm.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by USAFS197

I have no idea how you guys are keeping your tires planted on some of these stock tire setups. Lol. I'm sure it is careful right foot modulation but, even with just bolt ons, I can't stab the throttle in a first gear roll unless I want to purposely spin the tires. A NLS from 1-2 at this power level causes me to fish tail badly. All of this leads me towards a progressive build in power, like that of a procharger. I couldn't imagine adding another 100 torque to my car when full boost is available at 2k rpm. That would be an interesting drive for sure. I imagine that even with 1/4 throttle, it'll spin in first on an M6.

and you have a better ediff and bigger tires, yep full bolt ons with the SS's F1s NLS was getting pretty scarry. Now with a full build and a D1X... LOL I don't know what to do, maybe it is back to 100 wear DRs like the 555R Nittos. But there is the whipple guy with M6 on Contis faster than just about anybody else including many drag pack A8.

017 1SS M6
Tires used on the pass: Continental Extreme Contact Sport 305/35/20
Performance Mods (if any): Whipple SC, LT4 Fueling, CAI, stock headers, full cat delete, full Borla ATAK, tuned by CSP.
Race Weight: 3975# with 1/2 tank of 93 fuel
Category submitted for: Category #5 M6
R/T.......... .415
60'............. 1.738
330'........... 4.686
660'........... 7.088
660’ mph... 103.28
1000'.......... 9.138
1320'.......... 10.871
1320’ mph… 128.93
Name of the track: Maple Grove Raceway
Date of pass: 10/20/18
Weather conditions: 836 DA.
Attached Images : JHunsberger

[Chad_W]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

Ok a couple things to ask first before everyone throws an opinion at you.

1) What are you going to be using the car for?
2) Are you comfortable running a drag radial style tire on the car often?
3) Are you comfortable putting a converter in the car and driving it often like that?

Thanks again to everyone for all the comments they have been very helpful.

My Camaro is my daily driver and I mostly drive back roads and highways. When I had my Challenger I ran nitto 555rs for most of the year.

As for a converter you will have to excuse my ignorance but I'm not sure what that does.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by Chad_W

Thanks again to everyone for all the comments they have been very helpful.

My Camaro is my daily driver and I mostly drive back roads and highways. When I had my Challenger I ran nitto 555rs for most of the year.

As for a converter you will have to excuse my ignorance but I'm not sure what that does.

He is talking about a high stall converter that lets the auto build a little bit more RPM. More useful on the Procharger and an auto, but that again assumes traction. I'm don't have an A8, I have a M6 like you and have gone thru the mods from full bolts on including E85 to now a full motor with an upgraded blower. (Procharger D1X)... My car has been traction limited since FBO days. I really have to spend the bucks for something to hook. I looked at staggered 19x 8.5 in the front and 19 x10.5 rear with RE71Rs 305 30s.. about $2700 from Tirerack, with affordable rims, crazy rims say $5000.

My car is 100 percent street, all applications of power are done at a secret location on the family ranch....

[ShizzySupra]

If you aren't going to be in a position where you can really go to redline often then a PD blower will probably be most enjoyable to you due to the feeling. Easing into the throttle with yield plenty of torque for those quick but mild jaunts you seem to be hinting at.

Nitto 555R's will more than happily give you traction you desire from 2nd gear on. 1st gear is always a struggle on a street surface unless you are on a VERY sticky tire, prepped road, warm surface, aired down etc.

Wheels and tires are very cheap IMO. Simple set of 17's or 18's. You don't necessarily need the widest tire on earth its more of the COMPOUND of the tire that makes the difference.

Originally Posted by Chad_W

Thanks again to everyone for all the comments they have been very helpful.

My Camaro is my daily driver and I mostly drive back roads and highways. When I had my Challenger I ran nitto 555rs for most of the year.

As for a converter you will have to excuse my ignorance but I'm not sure what that does.

[USAFS197]

Originally Posted by oldman

and you have a better ediff and bigger tires, yep full bolt ons with the SS's F1s NLS was getting pretty scarry. Now with a full build and a D1X... LOL I don't know what to do, maybe it is back to 100 wear DRs like the 555R Nittos. But there is the whipple guy with M6 on Contis faster than just about anybody else including many drag pack A8.

Interesting. Maybe when these tires give out, I'll have to really buckle down and look at appropriate replacements. I really like the idea of positive displacement blowers but, practically speaking, I think centri's make more sense if I'm not trying to launch the car on the street.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by USAFS197

Interesting. Maybe when these tires give out, I'll have to really buckle down and look at appropriate replacements. I really like the idea of positive displacement blowers but, practically speaking, I think centri's make more sense if I'm not trying to launch the car on the street.

definitely easier to launch a car with 400less wht and 175 fewer hp.

The torque and power curve from the 13 psi Procharger is closer to the Magnuson running 8psi.

For the OP, you will definitely see people coming out in favor of their team and justifying their own decision on these threads. They are right there are many good options; however, to answer your original question, when all of the rhetoric is done...you can look at the numbers posted and the answer to your question could not be more black and white.

Traction...you already pointed out the answer, Nitto555R’s and you are golden (I am moving my writing harness this weekend and ordering MT's). You will need to be careful in 1st, but rocking out in 2nd. Good luck with your decision.

For the PD blowers, the Lt4 is the cheapest with the lowest performance ceiling. The Magnuson and Whipple will be very similar. Recently the Whipple folks are putting down more power on the dyno and the Magnuson people are running better 1/4 mile times. Once the weather gets nice again, we should have some real shootouts. We just ran out of weather.