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Old 01-04-2021, 03:35 PM   #295
Choda
 
Drives: Turbo 6.2
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Buffalo
Posts: 422
Quote:
Originally Posted by laynlo15 View Post
The BMRs are for sure. You have more room for headers, lines or whatever you need. I loved mine plus your weight will be less then the hydraulic filled stock mounts. I think I weighed mine and it saved about 18 lbs. off the front end.

I wanted to make sure the turbo kit still fit. Yes, there is a lot more room for wires, hoses, exhaust... whatever. The front end of my car is stupid heavy =]
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Old 01-04-2021, 05:55 PM   #296
Umbriel

 
Drives: 2016 Camaro SS
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My Huron Speed twin kit came with the BMR mount and it opened up a lot of area there, really nice mounts.

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Old 01-04-2021, 06:56 PM   #297
Herold Motorsports

 
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Drives: 2017 Chevrolet Camaro SS
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The BMR stuff is nice and opens up room for more activities for sure. We didnt use them in our single set up, but our twin set up will come with them hands down.
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Old 01-14-2021, 10:19 AM   #298
Choda
 
Drives: Turbo 6.2
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Called the companies I am still waiting on parts from. Both places said I should have everything by next week.

Dan from Katech said the oil pumps are being made right now and are due to ship next week.

I did what i could with the parts slowly showing up.

Finished up the valley cover, oil feed and oil pressure sensor changes. The old way had some brass fittings and a funky coupler off the front port. From there a -4 was ran over to the turbo. Then reduced down to a -3 into the turbo feed.

Now I have one -3 90* fitting in the top of the oil passage where I will have a single -3 line going to the turbo. I also moved the oil press sensor back to its original spot.


I also started wrapping my hot side with DEI Titanium. This stuff is expensive but works and looks great. Hate the cover up the pipes and welds but keeping the engine bay temps as low as possible is more important than looks. I never melted anything or had any issues but it did get hot in there after driving the car for a couple hours. The hood and fender would be warm to the touch.

I also reached out to Frankenstine heads. They offer o-ringed exhaust ports for ls7 heads. I emailed them about doing the same to my lt4 heads. Awaiting to hear back.
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:13 AM   #299
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Looking good.
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Old 01-14-2021, 11:41 AM   #300
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Nice job on the wrap. That’s not always easy to get looking good.
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Old 01-14-2021, 01:39 PM   #301
Choda
 
Drives: Turbo 6.2
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I also got 8 new plugs. close to 100 bucks!

Mighty mouse had the quick connect fittings to change from hose and hose clamp to a much cleaner and easier to work with fittings. I'll get some pics of what Im doing with this.

On the wrap. I've wrapped headers and turbo kits before so I knew what to expect and how to always add more than you think you'll use. I also had left over beat up piece that was about 20 foot long. I used that to pre wrap, measure and cut the new pieces to length. You guys might notice 2 tubes of the header wrap looks a little crappy. I used the left over pieces for this section because its hidden by the rest of the turbo kit. No one will see it. I also need to install the wire ties and remove the zip ties. I use zip ties because they are cheap and work. Only put the wire ties on when the section is complete. I'll use the rest of the new nice wrap for the visible parts.
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Old 01-19-2021, 11:33 AM   #302
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Another package showed up. Misc gaskets, arp header bolts (not sure why I bought bolts instead of studs), Crank bolt... still waiting on the valve spring tool.

I wrapped the rest of my piping and used the wire ties. Of course some broke and weren't long enough so I ordered another bag of them.

I started putting my oil pan back together and was going to install it. I looked in the oil cooler and saw a small piece of metal. This makes sense because the motor destroyed itself. I played it safe and ordered a new one from amazon. $220 freaking dollars!

Katech called me. The machining process for adding LT1 intake manifold bolt holes to LT4 heads is a bit of a mess. At first it sounded like the rear corner LT1 bolt hole would not be there because of a LT4 dowel in the heads. Then they would have to machine a dowel hole over an existing LT4 bolt hole for the LT1 dowel. I was pretty confused and worried that the end result would be heads that I could not torque LT4 or LT1 manifolds down. Which is a huge problem, esp for FI. Another worker from Katech reached out to me and said the corner LT1 hole will be machined but because it shares the existing dowel hole, installing that bolt must be taken with care. OK, that's fine. He also said I could omit the LT1 dowel machining that would overlay the LT4 bolt hole.

So after a lot of back and forth, I am going to have all of the LT4 and LT1 bolt holes in my LT4 heads. If anyone is thinking about doing this in the future, it might be worth having the LT4 dowel hole welded shut, then having the bolt hole machined. The dowel is for the factory lt4 blower. The only reason I went this route was because I did not want to use the ICT billet adapter plates or buy a $2,000 intake manifold. I'm hoping I can bolt my manifold down with no issues. I am thinking the worst case is I have to use a longer bolt for that rear corner.... I don't know.

I also checked their site and the last note on this page tells about the overlining holes. I do not remember seeing this originally.

The katech wet sump pumps were supposed to be completed last week but didn't. They are due to be completed this week. I'm not to happy with the time frames for the heads and oil pump from Katech. I'm hoping their finished products change my mind.
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Old 01-19-2021, 11:55 AM   #303
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Notice the pic from the katech site. It’s actually the hole in question. You can see the dowel and the bolt hole in the center. Here is the drawing katech has that also helps explain the alignment.

Wrapped up pipes

I always check the studs this way. Makes sure they are all installed correctly.
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