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Old 04-10-2018, 06:52 AM   #15
hitmix300
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installing the LT4 LPFP; started last night but didn't get the job finished off. using a pneumatic nibbler (powered tin snips basically) help make the job very easy to gain access without dropping the fuel cell.

Took the car for a couple rides and seen i had a trans line leaking. I addressed it by doubling up on the high pressure clamps on each side of the line. I just need to throw the car on a lift and flush/fill the fluid.



hoping to have the e-boost 2 controller & 5psi springs installed by thursday so i can switch between boost levels for e85/93 flex fuel.



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Old 04-13-2018, 11:53 AM   #16
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Obtained a ecs boost a pump from a co-worker today and will wire it in this weekend. Using an output from the e-boost 2 to turn on the BAP @ 2psi of boost. This should help the low pressure fuel system performance on corn fuel.

Ran into a pretty large issue with the car when i noticed some compression blow by at the injectors. Apparently the injector bores were very dirty and when re-installing the LT4 squirt guns the seals got damaged. I'm working on getting the proper sized reamer from a friend to clean out the bores & re-install them with the new seals pressed & sized on.. I've tried pipe cleaner, spray gun cleaners, brake clean & nothing is taking this nasty stuff off. Real good learning lesson here. Any northern car that see's salt is probably bound to see some corrosion on their motor in the worst places.

these special tools for the seals are ridiculously expensive. thank goodness for good friends who wrench often.






Last edited by hitmix300; 04-17-2018 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 04-16-2018, 07:35 AM   #17
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Completed the car last night; so long as no more issues pop up.

Borrowed some special tooling from a friend to clean the injector bores up; that certainly should correct the seals getting demolished during injector installation. We opened the intake valve on each cylinder and used a vaccum in the intake running to make sure we sucked out any dirt that the reamer dropped into the combustion chamber.

Also installed & wired the boost-a-pump. I mounted/permanately wired the afr gauge & eboost2 controller.

Once the dreaded michigan weather gets nicer, i'm looking forward to completing the tuning with Ted J.





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Old 04-17-2018, 06:39 AM   #18
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Well, Ted gave me the go ahead for a small WOT pull in 4th gear last night.... all I can say is WOW. It's like 40 degree's here and it was sprinkling so it took a lot of courage to make the pull; but managed to make three.

While i swapped on the rear DR's, I changed out the rear diff fluid in hopes of getting rid of the rear end groaning.

Can't wait for better weather to really get this car dialed in.



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Old 04-18-2018, 06:54 PM   #19
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Quick drive by while doing a datalog

https://youtu.be/F-OgndBeZ-0
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Old 04-18-2018, 07:03 PM   #20
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You have earned some serious applause.

I look forward to you next update.
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Old 04-21-2018, 07:01 PM   #21
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6.5psi from 5psi springs on 93 fuel. Should see a 10.5 on stock hellion springs (7 psi)




Last edited by hitmix300; 05-02-2018 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:07 AM   #22
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Looking good bro. Also don't know if you spoke with Turbosmart but the BOVs stay open until they no longer have vacuum applied. With your kit where do you get your oil supply?
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:17 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo_RORO View Post
Looking good bro. Also don't know if you spoke with Turbosmart but the BOVs stay open until they no longer have vacuum applied. With your kit where do you get your oil supply?
Thanks man. You can easily get oil feed from the oil temp sensor right above the oil filter. Check out this image for the after picture. FYI; it isn't npt or -an though, you need a special tee to tap into that just right. I want to say it's like 12mm o-ringed straight thread and it Tee's to 2 -4AN males.

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Old 04-23-2018, 08:26 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitmix300 View Post
6.5psi from 5psi springs on 93 fuel. Should see a 10.5 on stock hellion springs (7 psi)

video: https://youtu.be/PadiXTN7OC0

That is a pretty good et for just dialing it in. My buddy with twins at low boost and a sticky drag pack was able to cut a 1.60 with a mild brake boost, just 5psi. I think with a harder brake boost it would do a 1.5 60’
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 04-23-2018, 08:38 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hitmix300 View Post
Thanks man. You can easily get oil feed from the oil temp sensor right above the oil filter. Check out this image for the after picture. FYI; it isn't npt or -an though, you need a special tee to tap into that just right. I want to say it's like 12mm o-ringed straight thread and it Tee's to 2 -4AN males.
Sweet thanks. I'm using the sender up top but I like the setup your using also. When you turning up the boost?
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:09 AM   #26
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Sweet thanks. I'm using the sender up top but I like the setup your using also. When you turning up the boost?
As soon as the e50 gets used up. car is seeing 8ms PW and dropping HPF like crazy; so i'm guessing we're only going to be able to run e30 or just 93 with a splash of the good stuff.

Pretty bummed out on this, but I'm not willing to install a camshaft right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
That is a pretty good et for just dialing it in. My buddy with twins at low boost and a sticky drag pack was able to cut a 1.60 with a mild brake boost, just 5psi. I think with a harder brake boost it would do a 1.5 60’
Thanks Parish; I didn't try any launching techniques at all. Do you know what is the highest i can get it up to before the tires break loose on the stock stall?
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Old 04-23-2018, 10:57 AM   #27
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It depends on your tires, brakes, track...

Typically get the tires sticky, if your not picking up gravel on the return road they are not warm enough. Then you stage, push the brakes HARD, start to brake stall, let the light turn green but don’t go, then brake stall harder and try and find the limit of when it spins or pushes through the lights, then let er rip. Typically if it spins or pushes the run won’t be great but you try and learn when that happens and let the car go right before that happens.

If you have a boost gauge that might be 1psi, it might be 7psi. Before I posted my budddy is running 5psi, that is his boost level, not his boost at launch. I bet he is only leaving at a lb or two and has room for improvement but any bit helps.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:19 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
It depends on your tires, brakes, track...

Typically get the tires sticky, if your not picking up gravel on the return road they are not warm enough. Then you stage, push the brakes HARD, start to brake stall, let the light turn green but don’t go, then brake stall harder and try and find the limit of when it spins or pushes through the lights, then let er rip. Typically if it spins or pushes the run won’t be great but you try and learn when that happens and let the car go right before that happens.

If you have a boost gauge that might be 1psi, it might be 7psi. Before I posted my budddy is running 5psi, that is his boost level, not his boost at launch. I bet he is only leaving at a lb or two and has room for improvement but any bit helps.
I'll give this a shot if the weather is good saturday.
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