Perfect, road work.

[shadowhunter66]

Due to city negligence, you should call the city and explain the damage.. They should pay for it.

[Immortan]

I'd say the 325 PSS fit perfectly.

[Immortan]

Another shot of the 325 PSS.

[Immortan]

Front 305 PSS, I might try a 315 if I can find two.

[Immortan]

Tried to clay bar it this morning since I wax it once a month, no dice.

It appears that the road paint may have sand or something in it. Its really gritty and is actually scratching the paint during clay baring.

[The_Raging_Bull]

Well I'm a paint chemist these days....

the clay bar will remove this, or better use a staged system with an orbital polisher to apply cleaning wax, then wax then carnauba or even Zaino - which is a finishing system to itself. A staged system will cut with various sub micron particle sizes.

As an example, the typical polishes use snowfloss kaolin and small particle size carbonates. Neither will cause removal of much paint, but they will take stuff like this paint wheel mist off your Z's paint. You should try to see it tar remover will work, I suspect not; since most road paints are made using a special fast dry technology and are acrylics, hence not soluble in mineral spirits - indeed in petroleum based solvents..., and the solvents that might get the paint off with..well I would not use those on my paint. XPEL makes a cleaner for their film, that might work as well. Acetone might work..too active. I'd personally try goo gone..a small area neat to see it it comes off, the additional of a little water will cut its activity to allow zeroo damage to paint.9.5 parts goo gone (d-limonene) to 0.5 parts water. I use d-limonene on everything.

In my 26 year old Mitz 3000 GT the carpet down by the accelerator..where it gets nasty?? - a rag of 1 parts d-limonene to 9 parts water..saturate and wring till moist - pop in a glad gallon bag microwave to 140F..you'll clean all of the oil/grease etc of the car surfaces, as well as its the BEST grease/oil remover to clean the debris and crap that transfer from your shoes to you car carpet.

I'll ask my film guy about his polishing system, since I was about to buy that, total cost about 400 to 450 to have the correct orbital and the correct cutting polishes (for mechanical application); as well as the right heads, which have hexagonal pads fr use with the correct mechanical cutting polishes.

as always be VERY careful when polishing over edges, since thats the place you can burn though the paint. I hate seeing folks use a 7" sander with a polishing pad..thats a recipe for disaster- its not an orbital sander..hence it can cause swirl marks. If you HAVE to use a 7 or 5: rotary sander with a polish head..use a variac to adjust the speed from WFO to say 1/2 speed...so its not so prone to burn through the paint.

I have a Positector, wih that you can do an audit on the paint; I'm assuming that Chevy puts 1.5 mil down as a primer and 1 to 2 mil down as a color plus a 1 mil clearcoat. The positector can tell you the total paint thickness so you always KNOW that you have not damaged the paint thckness when you detail.

[MMC]

They put glass beads on the wet paint to make the lines reflective, try using some IPA that may help.

[The_Raging_Bull]

IPA = no go. Its a non solvent for arylics. The goo gone as i discussed is th ebest. Test in a small spot, then spray onto the car to help wet nd soften the residual dried paint, then use a high power pressure spray to remove the debris.
MMC is right, road paint is loaded with small (hard) glass beads that are like less than 1 micron in size, but they will scratch the paint and create awful swirl marks. If goo gone doesn't work, I'll post on Monday after calling a Dow contact that can give me the best way to wet, soften, and allow a spray washer to remove their resin. They and their competitor have a new technology that gives extremely fast dry paint.

Typically, only an oxygenated ketone (acetone/MIBK etc) will attack this type resin. Goo Gone is d-limonene and is a terpene made from orange peels. As a neat solvent it has the solvency of acetone. The goo gone neat might take it right off, but rather than trying to wipe it off allow the goo gone to sit on it for 20 minutes then spray it off..tht way the glass beads don't damage the paint...and they are blasted off.

I'd actually add a small amount of water in it, since that will buffer the goo gone slightly. As a neat solution its such a good solvent that it will melt polystyrene.Adding a little water (5%) will buffer the solution and wont attack your paint.

Since 100 MEK (ie acetone nearly) double rubs for our paint is one of the QC tests that the car paint must pass, I really dont like to use strong solvents directly onto the paint. A little water will allow you to safely use goo gone (i.e. d-limonene). Then again, it might be that it doesn't attack the paint as a neat chemical. Test it exposure on a small part of painted metal..and then look at the paint after exposure.