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Old 12-10-2020, 03:05 PM   #15
Winemedineme69me
 
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Originally Posted by 07-SRT View Post
Even though you're a " low lift cam" compared to other cams, your lift is still higher than stock and what the parts are engineered for. I would upgrade to GM racing or AKA "caddy lifters over the LS7 and CHE trunnions just for piece of mind.
Should I put in a thinner head gasket
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Old 12-10-2020, 03:59 PM   #16
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Should I put in a thinner head gasket
Not the best method imo. What's the PTV clearance on that cam? Also you will need to measure for p-rods to get the proper preload on the lifter you are going to install.
Might as well pull the heads have them ported and milled for compression if there is enough PTV clearance.
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Old 01-02-2021, 07:29 AM   #17
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You need to step up to 1 7/8 headers. Motor needs to breathe especially with a cam where you will turn more RPMs. The ole cleeter cam is not rowdy enough to “beat” on the valvetrain. You could put in a thinner head gasket, PTV should be just fine. The Under drive is up to you but it puts more strain on the battery. Personally For 5hp it’s not worth it.
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Old 01-02-2021, 12:42 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ashen L99 View Post
You need to step up to 1 7/8 headers. Motor needs to breathe especially with a cam where you will turn more RPMs. The ole cleeter cam is not rowdy enough to “beat” on the valvetrain. You could put in a thinner head gasket, PTV should be just fine. The Under drive is up to you but it puts more strain on the battery. Personally For 5hp it’s not worth it.

I'm actually going to get the tick polluter stage 3 cam, as far as the headers all the dyno test videos I've seen on the LS3 that the 1 7/8 really doesn't give much of anything and you actually lose a little torque down low. Unless I'm going big cubes or forced induction I'm not giving up much of anything with the 1 3/4 and more torque down low. I want to change it the harmonic balancer anyway because they are crap and wobble , so might as well do the UD pulley.
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Old 01-03-2021, 04:47 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Winemedineme69me View Post
I'm actually going to get the tick polluter stage 3 cam, as far as the headers all the dyno test videos I've seen on the LS3 that the 1 7/8 really doesn't give much of anything and you actually lose a little torque down low. Unless I'm going big cubes or forced induction I'm not giving up much of anything with the 1 3/4 and more torque down low. I want to change it the harmonic balancer anyway because they are crap and wobble , so might as well do the UD pulley.
I don’t believe that, Texas speed and janetty racing all picked up power moving from 1 7/8 up to 2” especially above 6500. I wonder why most brand name header company’s don’t offer 1 3/4 for these cars. Kooks tried doing a stepped header from 1 3/4 up to 1 7/8 on GTOs to increase the velocity of the gasses but straight 1 7/8 headers make the same power. 1 3/4 is good for old SBCs making 205 hp.
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Old 01-03-2021, 09:31 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Winemedineme69me View Post
I'm actually going to get the tick polluter stage 3 cam, as far as the headers all the dyno test videos I've seen on the LS3 that the 1 7/8 really doesn't give much of anything and you actually lose a little torque down low. Unless I'm going big cubes or forced induction I'm not giving up much of anything with the 1 3/4 and more torque down low. I want to change it the harmonic balancer anyway because they are crap and wobble , so might as well do the UD pulley.
Do your self a favor and stay away from the UDP, more trouble than it's worth. As they have said, it puts a lot of extra strain on the battery and charging system, and for 5hp? Not worth the trouble. I had one on my Blown Mustang and had battery/charging issues all the time. Just put a good performance balancer on there and be done with it. Just my .02....
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Old 01-05-2021, 08:29 AM   #21
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I'm just going to say it, If you don't do any of the supporting mods your going to be very disappointed when your car breaks. I have put about 10K in mods just to be ready to throw another 4K at the cam. I will drive my car for years at 480WHP and you will look at yours sitting in your garage broke if you don't build it right. At the very least you need to rebuild the top end when you replace the cam. I know I'm an azz but I just don't like people wasting there money and then saying there car is a POS. Trust me it takes patience and I know you want that sound and power but please take your time and do it right. You will be a lot happier.
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Old 01-05-2021, 08:48 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Winemedineme69me View Post
I'm actually going to get the tick polluter stage 3 cam, as far as the headers all the dyno test videos I've seen on the LS3 that the 1 7/8 really doesn't give much of anything and you actually lose a little torque down low. Unless I'm going big cubes or forced induction I'm not giving up much of anything with the 1 3/4 and more torque down low. I want to change it the harmonic balancer anyway because they are crap and wobble , so might as well do the UD pulley.
Ok here is a link to a header test on a Camaro that has only CAI.
It picked up power throughout the rpm range going to 1 7/8.And that is with a completely stock engine.

So I don’t know how you think a cammed one wouldn’t benefit from 1 7/8 or two inch headers.
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63640
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Old 01-05-2021, 10:10 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Ashen L99 View Post
I don’t believe that, Texas speed and janetty racing all picked up power moving from 1 7/8 up to 2” especially above 6500. I wonder why most brand name header company’s don’t offer 1 3/4 for these cars. Kooks tried doing a stepped header from 1 3/4 up to 1 7/8 on GTOs to increase the velocity of the gasses but straight 1 7/8 headers make the same power. 1 3/4 is good for old SBCs making 205 hp.
Watch this YouTube video of different sides headers being compared on a 427 engine where the 1 7/8 and 2" made more power than the 1 3/4" but at the end they compare the 1 3/4" vs. 1 7/8" on a canned cammed LS3 and there was no difference other than the 1 3/4" made more torque down low. So, it's not worth me having to buy another set of headers and pay another $400 to replace them again for virtually no gains and maybe even lose torque down low.

Here is the link.

https://youtu.be/O1bXPNy1Yn4
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Old 01-05-2021, 10:18 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS View Post
Do your self a favor and stay away from the UDP, more trouble than it's worth. As they have said, it puts a lot of extra strain on the battery and charging system, and for 5hp? Not worth the trouble. I had one on my Blown Mustang and had battery/charging issues all the time. Just put a good performance balancer on there and be done with it. Just my .02....
Yeah I've heard people say that, but it's always on another type of car. The 5th gen camaro have a pretty robust charging system and the PCM can modify charging voltage to compensate. there are threads here at the forum where they have them on their Camaros and they say the charging voltage is still great, they don't have any charging issues and no reliability issues from the UDP. Unless you have a massive sound system pulling lots of current then it is a non issue.
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Old 01-05-2021, 11:48 AM   #25
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Probably not much help, but I watch a YouTube video of a guy who said it sounds good but doesn’t make much power, so he switched to a BTR stage 3
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Old 01-05-2021, 11:55 AM   #26
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Probably not much help, but I watch a YouTube video of a guy who said it sounds good but doesn’t make much power, so he switched to a BTR stage 3
Yeah, I'm going to go with the tick stage 3 polluter cam, that makes power homeboy.
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Old 01-05-2021, 11:58 AM   #27
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Yeah, I'm going to go with the tick stage 3 polluter cam, that makes power homeboy.
Good luck, hope everything turns out well!
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Old 01-05-2021, 06:20 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Winemedineme69me View Post
Watch this YouTube video of different sides headers being compared on a 427 engine where the 1 7/8 and 2" made more power than the 1 3/4" but at the end they compare the 1 3/4" vs. 1 7/8" on a canned cammed LS3 and there was no difference other than the 1 3/4" made more torque down low. So, it's not worth me having to buy another set of headers and pay another $400 to replace them again for virtually no gains and maybe even lose torque down low.

Here is the link.

https://youtu.be/O1bXPNy1Yn4
So you are trying to say that a test open headers with different header extensions is more valid then a wheel dyne test with the engine in the car with the full exhaust.

I think someone just doesn’t want to change headers so they are trying to validate there decision.
It’s all good it’s your car do what you want.
But I can’t agree.
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