[wrankin]

I have just completed my first full season at the local SCCA Autocross club. 3 events last year and 6 events this year. The goal this year was seat time and working on personal improvement. I am now considering some minor changes within the spirit of F-Street rules.

I currently have Michelin PS4s on 20" wheels - my options on tire choice seem pretty limited, so at some point, should I consider going with 19"?

Sway bar change - I believe I need to stay with GM parts on this, correct? ...and can only go up or down one size? So I am thinking 1LE or ZL1 sway bars. Should I consider changing out the front, rear or both?

Any other F-Street options to consider?

One thing I did finally figure out was tire pressure - I was completely backwards on this running 2 to 3 psi less in the front. The car seemed very snappy and uncontrollable at times. By going with 2 to 3 psi less in the rear, car control seems so much easier. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Bill

[Norm Peterson]

You can only change one of the bars in 'Street'. I don't think that the origin of any substituted (or added) bar is limited to OE, though.

There's a little room for improvement in alignment settings, but you have to be a bit careful. The use of factory adjustment mechanisms is OK, but you can't use aftermarket means.


Norm

[SCCAForums]

Fast guys in F-Street are on either the 20” Goodyear SC3, or 19” RE71R.

The Falken RT-660 May be another contender when the 19” tires land.

Best Regards,
Dave

Originally Posted by wrankin

I have just completed my first full season at the local SCCA Autocross club. 3 events last year and 6 events this year. The goal this year was seat time and working on personal improvement. I am now considering some minor changes within the spirit of F-Street rules.

I currently have Michelin PS4s on 20" wheels - my options on tire choice seem pretty limited, so at some point, should I consider going with 19"?

Sway bar change - I believe I need to stay with GM parts on this, correct? ...and can only go up or down one size? So I am thinking 1LE or ZL1 sway bars. Should I consider changing out the front, rear or both?

Any other F-Street options to consider?

One thing I did finally figure out was tire pressure - I was completely backwards on this running 2 to 3 psi less in the front. The car seemed very snappy and uncontrollable at times. By going with 2 to 3 psi less in the rear, car control seems so much easier. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Bill

[Ummpwr]

From my I understanding of street class rules you can change 1 sway bar and you can go aftermarket, it doesn't have to be from another model GM. I believe most are putting a stiffer front bar for better turn in and quicker steering response.

I think your also aloud a strut bar, not sure how much that helps tho.

On the wheels you can change 1in diameter bit have to be the stock width. I'd definitely do 19s for better tire selection and likely will be lighter than your stock 20s

Definitely get as much front and rear camber as possible with stock adjustment and keeping the toe in spec

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

You can only change one of the bars in 'Street'. I don't think that the origin of any substituted (or added) bar is limited to OE, though.

There's a little room for improvement in alignment settings, but you have to be a bit careful. The use of factory adjustment mechanisms is OK, but you can't use aftermarket means.


Norm

Originally Posted by SCCAForums

Fast guys in F-Street are on either the 20” Goodyear SC3, or 19” RE71R.

The Falken RT-660 May be another contender when the 19” tires land.

Best Regards,
Dave

Hey guys - thanks for the info

Bill

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by Ummpwr

From my I understanding of street class rules you can change 1 sway bar and you can go aftermarket, it doesn't have to be from another model GM. I believe most are putting a stiffer front bar for better turn in and quicker steering response.

I think your also aloud a strut bar, not sure how much that helps tho.

On the wheels you can change 1in diameter bit have to be the stock width. I'd definitely do 19s for better tire selection and likely will be lighter than your stock 20s

Definitely get as much front and rear camber as possible with stock adjustment and keeping the toe in spec

Thanks for taking the time to respond - this is still pretty new to me, and I didn't want to change things to this point, except for the nut behind the wheel. It's time to make some small changes

Bill

[ICTsccaCamaro]

19"s with RE-71r's and an aggressive alignment with make the most difference

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by ICTsccaCamaro

19"s with RE-71r's and an aggressive alignment with make the most difference

I bought 20" wheels last year before I started autocrossing. I wish I knew then what I know now.

Bill

[Heartbreaker]

Originally Posted by wrankin

Thanks for taking the time to respond - this is still pretty new to me, and I didn't want to change things to this point, except for the nut behind the wheel. It's time to make some small changes

Bill

Hey Bill, Look forward fo seeing you at CamaroFest!

[wrankin]

Originally Posted by Heartbreaker

Hey Bill, Look forward to seeing you at CamaroFest!

Hey Tom - Me too - I already have my hotel reservations. I also want to do Tail of the Dragon earlier that week. Interested?

Bill

[wrankin]

Reviving this old thread of mine.

I toasted my PS4s tire at NCM this year at CF10, and decided to keep my MRR M017 1LE replica wheels and have them powder coated. I just picked up the GY SC3 tires and did a Starting Line School and an Autocross this past weekend. Seems 34 PSI front and 32 PSI provided a decent balance. Does that sound about right? Also planning a track alignment before the next autocross. I planned on going with the GM spec on this, and looking for some feedback on the specs.

Bill

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/images/editor/attach.gif

[joelster]

Those track alignment settings will work but keep in mind those are road course settings. Typically you can add more negative camber for autocross. Ask on your local SCCA page where everyone goes to for an alignment. There will be one "go to guy" that everyone uses. See how much they can get. My car was able to get -2.7 and -2.5 up front so I had him set them both to -2.5. Make sure the extra wheels that you get are the same width as factory. You can go up or down 1" in diameter but you can't go wider.

[conemark]

Adding to this, how you use the car may determine your toe settings. If you daily drive the car, you may not want to stray too far from what's listed in the chart. However you may find folks who use the car less on the street with more aggressive settings.

Also, keep in mind, your adjustments, at least in the Street classes such as FS, are limited in range or as allowed by factory service guidelines for crash repair.

[Msquared]

I've been keeping toe at 0, both front and rear, on my SS 1LE. I would get as much negative camber as possible front and rear, and wear won't be too bad with zero toe. In the rear, you are limited on camber by the length of the toe link: at a certain point, dialing in any more camber will force toe out that can't be adjusted out, so you set as much camber as you can while holding on to zero toe. At the front, just move the knuckle in on the strut as much as possible - there is plenty of range for toe adjustment.

Too bad about the 20" wheels. The tires to be on now for a Camaro are pretty clearly the Falken RT660, but they don't make any 20" sizes yet. There's probably more than a 1/2-second difference between those and the SC3s, maybe even a whole second. It's not subtle.

The only other thing you could consider for Street class is an aftermarket set of dampers (struts and shocks). Everything out there seems to be set up with coilovers in mind, which you can't use in Street. But maybe a call to Vorshlag or Strano could get you some good dampers that retain the stock springs? I don't know for sure, though.