[Kenny_Z]

I've had my 1SS 2016 since mid-2020. I bought her with about 56k on the clock. This August I had an issue while in a long line of traffic. My clutch wouldn't engage. I ended up stuck in the middle of the highway and had to push her off the road. By the time the tow truck showed up I could engage the clutch again. I took her to a local shop and they determined that my clutch was shot (at 80k). They said it was one of the worst they'd seen in awhile and I got that side eye of 'do you even know how to use a manual'. I looked at it, burnt and hot spots. They thought slave cylinder may have been the source of my pressure loss. We went with a complete Centerforce system and a new slave cylinder from GM which took nearly a month to arrive. I drove the car about 2 weeks and the problem returned. Master cylinder was replaced this time. I've been driving her only to work and back and am now at 83k.

Honestly, the clutch feels so much better than it used to. I swear before all the work the bite point was entirely random around the center of the pedal rise. It's closer to the floor now and feels consistent. I never really noticed when I first got her because only other manual car is an 81 DeLorean so I'm not used to how modern clutches should feel. With the D just using the clutch pedal is a workout.

However, very recently and verified tonight my pressure loss is returning. I pulled into my driveway tonight after work and tested. I held down my pedal for about 20 seconds and couldn't shift into any gear. I could feel the car trying to move against the brakes. I pump the pedal a few times and I can shift again but holding down the pedal the car starts to stall and I can't shift out of 1st. I had to quickly shut down the car. Fluid levels look good, the system is still stock so brakes and trans share a revivor. I'm going to take her back to the mechanic next month but I am at a loss of what is left for them to even investigate. Any ideas?

[easttxss]

If there is no external leak, I would say the master is leaking internally. We are going to be dealing with crap parts made during covid for the next few years, in ALL fields. The old mechanics phrase of 'new doesn't mean good' is going to take on a whole new level of truth.

[oldman]

If there is no change in clutch feel, you could have a pilot bearing going out and the this would spin the input shaft so no shift.

Car stuck on road, you can put it in gear and crank the starter the car will start and move forward and when you get to where you are getting to hit brakes engine stall no big deal. I can and have driven cars all the way how with no working clutch just have to rev match the engine to the gear, I do it all the time in my Miata for shiznits and grins, reminds me of my 3 on the tree Ford F100 with a non-sync granny gear.... oh you can get it in as long as you bring the straight 300 CID 6 banger to the right RPM....Next I'll tell you a stroy of the time I had to drive a T34 tank.

[Kenny_Z]

I kind of suspected it might be a faulty part. I've purchased brand new bad parts before and I am sure I will again. I can deal with the car the way she is right now but I'll have to get this solved by spring break. This is a tourist town so the stop and go heavy traffic will be returning then.

Ah, I should have added when the car left me on the side of the road the clutch dropped to the floor. I had to pull it up with my foot and once it cooled I had pressure again. Now I can feel a very slightly difference in pressure whenever I hold it down while hot. I tried it yesterday morning and I could hold the pedal down for minutes at a time and was able to shift into gear so it's definitely only happening when hot. My commute is about 25 miles one way so I may try some short drives to see if it is happening at operating temps or just warmed up.

I enjoy my manual cars but I am not talented with it. The only time I speed shifted the Camaro was entirely by accident. I'd rather not learn how to on either of my manual cars. They are far too expensive to have fixed. I need to get a beater that I can work on to learn. Maybe an old VW Bug, I've always wanted one.

[m6-lt1]

Was the flywheel replaced? Dual Mass flywheels are one time use.

[Kenny_Z]

Yes, the flywheel was also replaced. It was a kit from Centerforce, this one to be specific: https://www.centerforce.com/i-305005...l#!year%3D2016

[dpevans]

A clutch feel should not be at the bottom of the floor it should be closer center to top. A clutch at the bottom means there is no room for play, my guess it was not shimmed properly between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate. When the clutch is new it should disengage closer to the top of the pedal and as it wears that will move further to the floor. The clutch is tied in with the brake master and if the slave was leaking your brake fluid would be low and you would have fluid under the car or see moisture under the bell housing and around the slave cylinder. I would call up the installers and tell them you lost all pedal and they need to fix it. It also possible they did not bleed it properly but I kind of doubt that.

[Kenny_Z]

Thanks for all the information everyone. I took the car to the mechanic and had them check it out. They fixed something (for free) within the shift linkage, a loose bushing or a rubber pad, his description was hard to understand. I'm not 100% sure it's fixed but I've tested the same way as before and not had any issues shifting. I could hold the pedal in for minutes at a time on a fully warmed up engine and could cycle through the gears with zero problems.