[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by ShizzySupra

Must have some really cruddy tires then :( Regardless, dyno is 100 times safer and more consistent for tuning anyways.

I was ok tuning up to about 780whp on the street...using HP tuners I can see about 20whp more on the street versus the dyno - another degree of timing on the street).

Once we crossed above the 12psi threshold, street tires (Nitto G2's) got really scary. For winter, I have dialed back to 10psi and 93 octane because I won't be driving other than an occasional cruise when weather permits.

My plan right now is to see if we can run 9's without alkynor race fuel @12psi (760-780whp). If I need some help I will go with one of these options:
1. Bigger FIC injectors to allow pump e85 with no mixing and 800+whp.
2. Alky injection with a special track tune (and then allow alky for cooling only with street setup).
3. VP109 race fuel tune

Will also grab some tires before we start tuning again. Likely 20in DR's.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

I was ok tuning up to about 780whp on the street...using HP tuners I can see about 20whp more on the street versus the dyno - another degree of timing on the street).

Once we crossed above the 12psi threshold, street tires (Nitto G2's) got really scary. For winter, I have dialed back to 10psi and 93 octane because I won't be driving other than an occasional cruise when weather permits.

My plan right now is to see if we can run 9's without alkynor race fuel @12psi (760-780whp). If I need some help I will go with one of these options:
1. Bigger FIC injectors to allow pump e85 with no mixing and 800+whp.
2. Alky injection with a special track tune (and then allow alky for cooling only with street setup).
3. VP109 race fuel tune

Will also grab some tires before we start tuning again. Likely 20in DR's.

You will be impressed how much power you can put down with a set of Nitto Drag radials.

Ted.

[oldman]

I guess that depends on the Nittos, for many years I DD Nitto 555R. they were great and all, but not like they could hook 700 +WHP...

If you are talking zero zero Nittos… dunno. But since I'm on my 4th set of rear tires in 18,000 miles... I think sooner or later I could just buy a ZL1 for the cost, if I had the NT05Rs.. I'd probably be on my 10th set or sumting.

I don't know if I will do 555R or (Yoko 888 or NT05R) (same compound, so I' ve heard, same goes for RA-1 and the NT01, all made by the same company) this go around, leaning toward the Yoko as their tire sizes are more compatible with the OEM front size tires.

I don't know how the Doctor is even hooking with G2s, they are not know as super sticky tires.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

You will be impressed how much power you can put down with a set of Nitto Drag radials.

Ted.

Are you thinking it would be best to get a set of 17's, or are you thinking the Nitto 555R's on 20in rims?

Originally, I was hoping to find a rear that wouldn't require me to swap fronts at the same time. IF I have to go with 305/35's then I think that would be too big a size difference for my current fronts 285/30's. Which is fine...then I would probably just get the Nitto's or the MT's all the way around.

At the same time, I could probably get the Toyos and just add the rear's...or I could get the Hoosier R7's and only get rears...

I think I am sold on just getting the Nittos or the MT's when it's time to start driving again. For now, I have to get my hood painted and I have to relocate the wiring harness...

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by oldman

I guess that depends on the Nittos, for many years I DD Nitto 555R. they were great and all, but not like they could hook 700 +WHP...

If you are talking zero zero Nittos… dunno. But since I'm on my 4th set of rear tires in 18,000 miles... I think sooner or later I could just buy a ZL1 it I had the NT05Rs.. I'd probably be on my 10th set or sumting.

I don't know if I will do 555R or (Yoko 888 or NT05R) (same compound, so I' ve heard, same goes for RA-1 and the NT01, all made by the same company) this go around, leaning toward the Yoko as their tire sizes are more compatible with the OEM front size tires.

I don't know how the Doctor is even hooking with G2s, they are not know as super sticky tires.

The G2's can't come close to hooking. . .not even remotely. I definitely have to get something better. Ideally I could have found a great tire that would be in the 305/30 size to match my current setup. . .if I go taller, 305/35, then I have to replace front tires too (because the size difference).


I had thought about getting a drag pack, but I just can't justify it for the amount of time I would go to the track. Instead, I am going to get some tires that will be ok on the street or strip...probably the Nitto 555R or the MT's.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

Are you thinking it would be best to get a set of 17's, or are you thinking the Nitto 555R's on 20in rims?

Originally, I was hoping to find a rear that wouldn't require me to swap fronts at the same time. IF I have to go with 305/35's then I think that would be too big a size difference for my current fronts 285/30's. Which is fine...then I would probably just get the Nitto's or the MT's all the way around.

At the same time, I could probably get the Toyos and just add the rear's...or I could get the Hoosier R7's and only get rears...

I think I am sold on just getting the Nittos or the MT's when it's time to start driving again. For now, I have to get my hood painted and I have to relocate the wiring harness...

I have a brand new set of 305-35-19 mounted on really nice wheels with sensors installed and balanced I can give you a great deal on customer ordered them from me then changed his mind.

[KingLT1]

I dropped 5 tenths going from a 275/35/20 run flat to a 305/35/20 555r. I can go out and pull 3.4-3.5 0-60 all day like I am bracket racing on 47 degree unprepped streets. I am not making the same level of power, but I believe they will at least make 700+ whp useable. Jarrod Royce went low 10's @ 135 on a 305/35/20 when he had his Maggie setup.

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I dropped 5 tenths going from a 275/35/20 run flat to a 305/35/20 555r. I can go out and pull 3.4-3.5 0-60 all day like I am bracket racing on 47 degree unprepped streets. I am not making the same level of power, but I believe they will at least make 700+ whp useable. Jarrod Royce went low 10's @ 135 on a 305/35/20 when he had his Maggie setup.

That's great info. I think Stefano's vert ran 10.2 with 20's also (which as far as I know, is the 6th gen vert record).

Ted, it's tempting, but I think if I.am staying with regular size wheels, I just need to get the tires...or, if I go to 19's, I would want to get all 4 corners so that I can just drive them street or strip.

[DatBrotato]

put on a set of 305/35r20 555Rs yesterday and kept the 285/30 up front.
Night & day difference in traction. Hooked up without even warming them up/breaking them in.
Stabilitrac doesn't seem to like the size difference though. Had to turn it off to keep it from pulling timing and doing weird stuff through the diff.

Also had to relocate the harness to the edge of the fenderwell.

[asthmamax11]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

The G2's can't come close to hooking. . .not even remotely. I definitely have to get something better. Ideally I could have found a great tire that would be in the 305/30 size to match my current setup. . .if I go taller, 305/35, then I have to replace front tires too (because the size difference).


I had thought about getting a drag pack, but I just can't justify it for the amount of time I would go to the track. Instead, I am going to get some tires that will be ok on the street or strip...probably the Nitto 555R or the MT's.

I recently put a set of 19" tsw interlaggos on all four corners with MT et streets on the back
Wheels are like 22-23 lbs each

Crazy I actually kinda liked my Nitto NT05R'S a little more than these Mickey's

[Drsagacity]

Originally Posted by DatBrotato

put on a set of 305/35r20 555Rs yesterday and kept the 285/30 up front.
Night & day difference in traction. Hooked up without even warming them up/breaking them in.
Stabilitrac doesn't seem to like the size difference though. Had to turn it off to keep it from pulling timing and doing weird stuff through the diff.

Also had to relocate the harness to the edge of the fenderwell.

Yeah. I figured that I have to switch front and back at the same time. I was told by someone else the same thing that they liked the Nittos better than the MT's.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Drsagacity

That's great info. I think Stefano's vert ran 10.2 with 20's also (which as far as I know, is the 6th gen vert record).

Ted, it's tempting, but I think if I.am staying with regular size wheels, I just need to get the tires...or, if I go to 19's, I would want to get all 4 corners so that I can just drive them street or strip.

No reason you can't bolt these on and drive it everyday as well as to the track.

And no reason why I can't set you up with matching fronts and save a bunch of rotating weight.

These wheels are really light.

Ted.

[oldman]

Ted, Please post on the wheel section a few recommended packages, I like the idea of 19" with a tire I can drive on (within reason) and a matching front. I would actually buy two different rears, one all season, one DR type but want to be able to drive on it, at least to the local 1/8 mile which is like 80 miles. Any good 1/4 mile is like 130 to 250 miles away.

[Drsagacity]

#oldman, I am with you. I am thinking that I might switch to 19’s and simply use them on all four corners. I don’t drive in bad weather, so I can use the DR’s year around.

Thinking I would buy these with matching fronts and then decide if I want to keep or sell my MMR017’s.