[TP355Z]

Hey all,

Looking for a sanity check from the community here - specifically those that track their 1LEs.

As of today my 1LE has 5,000 miles on it, with a total of 5 track days (each is five 20-30 minute sessions). After 2 track days at Lime Rock Park and 1 at Thomson Motor Speedway I headed to Watkins Glen and noticed a little front rotor vibration once the brakes warmed up. It didn't get worse after 2 days at the Glen, but it didn't get better either. From what I've seen, other folks are getting a lot more life out of their stock rotors.

I'm struggling to come up with a good reason for why my rotors have warped already, other than "Lime Rock is hard on brakes". I'm still running stock pads and I don't *think* I'm particularly hard on brakes as I'm an Intermediate/Advanced level driver.

I have DBA 5000 series rotors to put on the front right now. I'm contemplating how unwise it is to re-use the stock pads since they have so little time on them.

Thoughts?

[TrackClub]

My stock rotors easily last 15+ hard track days at varous venues with mainly stock pads (but not only) plus dd largely to/from tracks but longish distances.

Stock pads are very gentle on rotors and they are for sure not the reason for your issue. However, if you have 5 track days and a good deal of dd on them they could be done, or they could have worn unevenly and hence you have a shudder.

Never heard of stock rotors warping on a 1le, so id check them out before swapping them out way prematurely.

Hope it helps. Cheers!

[R3ctivision]

Rotors don't warp. It's probably uneven pad deposits. If I haven't tracked my car in a month, it's time to burnish my brakes a day or two before I head to the track.

Uneven pad deposits seem to happen most easily if you don't brake hard enough. It sounds like you can get at least five more track days out of your rotors. Mine lasted 10, now they are all cracked but still driving them on the street until I get around to changing them.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by TP355Z

Hey all,

Looking for a sanity check from the community here - specifically those that track their 1LEs.

As of today my 1LE has 5,000 miles on it, with a total of 5 track days (each is five 20-30 minute sessions). After 2 track days at Lime Rock Park and 1 at Thomson Motor Speedway I headed to Watkins Glen and noticed a little front rotor vibration once the brakes warmed up. It didn't get worse after 2 days at the Glen, but it didn't get better either. From what I've seen, other folks are getting a lot more life out of their stock rotors.

I'm struggling to come up with a good reason for why my rotors have warped already, other than "Lime Rock is hard on brakes". I'm still running stock pads and I don't *think* I'm particularly hard on brakes as I'm an Intermediate/Advanced level driver.

I have DBA 5000 series rotors to put on the front right now. I'm contemplating how unwise it is to re-use the stock pads since they have so little time on them.

Thoughts?

By warped, you mean uneven pad deposits I assume?

I have 5 days on my rotors and besides normal heat/stress cracking they are fine. 4 of those days are with DS1.11 and one with stock pads.

Scuff the rotors up and bed the pads in again to see if that helps.

[TP355Z]

I knew I'd get a hard time for "warped" versus "deposits".

After doing some research (http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths) I've come to the conclusion that I may have induced the problem...

Before going to the Glen I washed the car and put it away - forming pad-size rust spots. I used a little sandpaper to remove the rust spots the next day thinking I was doing myself a favor - but I probably created the problem since it appeared the next time I drove the car.

I'm planning to get some garnet paper and try sanding all 4 rotors before re-bedding the brakes. We shall see if that helps.

I know this though, the rotors aren't cracked, so maybe they can be saved.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by TP355Z

I knew I'd get a hard time for "warped" versus "deposits".

After doing some research (http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths) I've come to the conclusion that I may have induced the problem...

Before going to the Glen I washed the car and put it away - forming pad-size rust spots. I used a little sandpaper to remove the rust spots the next day thinking I was doing myself a favor - but I probably created the problem since it appeared the next time I drove the car.

I'm planning to get some garnet paper and try sanding all 4 rotors before re-bedding the brakes. We shall see if that helps.

I know this though, the rotors aren't cracked, so maybe they can be saved.

I've found that after washing the car I have to drive it a few miles to completely dry out the brakes, otherwise they rust themselves to the rotors making the next time I drive the car an adventure in getting them to crack free again.

[TrackClub]

Our rotors are very beefy. Dont be afraid of heat check micro cracks. Thats conpletely normal.
Unless they start running long to the outside, or get wider so a finger nail catches. Provoste does a ton of track days with his car and i think a set lasts him a season?

[Bluebarchetta]

I’ve used a Brush Flex hone on my race car rotors. This has been effective at removing pad deposit, and allowing pad manufacturer/compound change without wasting a bunch of track time trying to get the rotors to take a set to the new compound. These should be effective at eliminating mild pad buildup, displaying as “warped rotors”.

I’d highly recommend doing this on a bench and wearing respiratory gear and eye protection. I wouldn’t recommend breathing in the resulting dust.

Link to amazon product listing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Atlas24601]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

I've found that after washing the car I have to drive it a few miles to completely dry out the brakes, otherwise they rust themselves to the rotors making the next time I drive the car an adventure in getting them to crack free again.

Mine are dry or at least on their way to being dry the first time I use my brakes. Stopping 4000ish lbs using friction creates a lot of heat to evaporate the water right off of them.

Mine do get a little bit of surface rust every now and then though if I let it sit outside for a few days unused in the heat/rain/humidity/salt air/nasty non-potable sulfur water sprinkler system/Florida swamp.

[SaphfireSS]

Always drive your car around after washing to get water out of well everywhere. You should not have to “sand rotors”. Even when changing from one brake pad compound to another. Just go through proper bedding procedures. It is never a bad idea to rebed pads before track event. Especially if you dd your car. And as stated heat stress cracking is normal and you should not worry unless cracked to edge or thicker than your nail. I got a whole season of track days (a lot!) from oem’s then changed to DBA. Just FYI dba’s Have lasted a lot longer.

[carguy55]

Originally Posted by TP355Z

I knew I'd get a hard time for "warped" versus "deposits".

After doing some research (http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths) I've come to the conclusion that I may have induced the problem...

Before going to the Glen I washed the car and put it away - forming pad-size rust spots. I used a little sandpaper to remove the rust spots the next day thinking I was doing myself a favor - but I probably created the problem since it appeared the next time I drove the car.

I'm planning to get some garnet paper and try sanding all 4 rotors before re-bedding the brakes. We shall see if that helps.

I know this though, the rotors aren't cracked, so maybe they can be saved.

Any news from the OP?

[Jimbeau11]

The best way to remove the "deposits" is to "drive real fast and brake real hard".
Seriously. In over 11 years of track driving, I've never pulled rotors off to "sand" them or in any way refinish them.

As far at "rotor life" goes....run them until they either measure out of min spec thickness or crack (not spidering which is normal).

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Jimbeau11

The best way to remove the "deposits" is to "drive real fast and brake real hard".
Seriously. In over 11 years of track driving, I've never pulled rotors off to "sand" them or in any way refinish them.

As far at "rotor life" goes....run them until they either measure out of min spec thickness or crack (not spidering which is normal).

Haha couldnt agree more! Proper dose of heat will make rotors shine like donkey's ass

[Texan4iu]

Originally Posted by SaphfireSS

Always drive your car around after washing to get water out of well everywhere. You should not have to “sand rotors”. Even when changing from one brake pad compound to another. Just go through proper bedding procedures. It is never a bad idea to rebed pads before track event. Especially if you dd your car. And as stated heat stress cracking is normal and you should not worry unless cracked to edge or thicker than your nail. I got a whole season of track days (a lot!) from oem’s then changed to DBA. Just FYI dba’s Have lasted a lot longer.

I have been through 2 sets of stock rotors. This 2nd set lasted me 15 track days. Switching to the DBAs before next track day. That's good to hear that the DBAs lasted for you!