[george]

I purchased the Katech also. I'm in a similar situation. I don't want to change the original unless I see the oil pressure drop because I'm still under warranty until December 2026. If the pressure drops, I'll have dealer install the Katech and may consider the cam if I'm out of warranty. I only have 2k on my car now, but I'm retiring soon and intend to drive the heck out of it. I just can't put that car in the parking garage where I work now. I've had a car that's had a hit and run and there are all kinds of stories of what goes on in that garage. The security guards are really little help when I had my incident. Accept for issuing citations. They're good at that...hmmm

[george]

Originally Posted by nighthawkra

Yeah my cold oil pressure at start is 34-35 then settles to 30. Checked my idle and at temp it settles the needle right at 20 BUT I just realized the last shop I took it to changed the oil at synthetic 5w30 wonder if that has anything to do with it, not 0w40

I would defiantly recheck after the next oil change. I've been running 0w/40, start at 39-41psi and drop to 29-31 at 200+ temp

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by nighthawkra

Yeah my cold oil pressure at start is 34-35 then settles to 30. Checked my idle and at temp it settles the needle right at 20 BUT I just realized the last shop I took it to changed the oil at synthetic 5w30 wonder if that has anything to do with it, not 0w40

If you look at the manual for the car 5w30 is the recommended oil. GM changed to 0w40 someone in 2019 but they didn't send out a memo to all the owners saying it was a mandatory change. So if you go off of what the owners manual says, 5w30 is correct and completely fine.

This issue has nothing to do with the oil and you could have been using the "best" oil on the market and it would have still failed. its the subpar oil pump GM used for a certain amount of time on the ZL1s. There have even been a very few number of 2019 ZL1s that had their oil pump fail.

You just lucked out and had a car that had this issue and it took a while to show. My stock 2018 has over 40k miles, driven of a mix of hard and light, raced hard and hasn't shown this issue. I still use the 5w30 oil recommended for my year model too.

[nighthawkra]

Originally Posted by george

I would defiantly recheck after the next oil change. I've been running 0w/40, start at 39-41psi and drop to 29-31 at 200+ temp

Change done, at open loop it's just a hair over 20, my aeroforce gauge is showing from 20-5 with flashes of 30. When 4500rpm+ it climbs to 50+ then settles to 30 for 30 seconds then drops slowly to 23 ish.

[Vigilante375]

Originally Posted by nighthawkra

Change done, at open loop it's just a hair over 20, my aeroforce gauge is showing from 20-5 with flashes of 30. When 4500rpm+ it climbs to 50+ then settles to 30 for 30 seconds then drops slowly to 23 ish.

Better just go ahead and change your oil pump. Better to do it now than some time later that's more of an inconvenience.

That right there is it saying I'm giving you all I got but I haven't got much left in me.

[arpad_m]

Let me echo the statements of those who said it was time for a new oil pump. Do it now before you're suddenly looking at an engine teardown and rebuild project.

[AZIROC]

Originally Posted by nighthawkra

I've honestly never given it thought. But you are correct. If I do I want it to be mild, as I live in California 🤣 but also at this point I have to figure out of I want to keep the car after the repair.

I understand the frustration of wamting to keep the car or not, but if you are going to fix it, atleast you know the oil pressure won't be an issue again. And maybe u get alittle bump in power (and fuel lobe %) from the cam install. This way you can run a higher % of E.

[ParisTNDude]

With only 7k mile on my old 2018, I lost oil pressure very unexpectedly. After much expense, I found the grommet between the oil pump and pan was damaged...no way to know how that occurred but since I had never had the engine apart it must have been a factory defect. Replacing the grommet brought my oil pressure back to specs. Hope you find a cure for your issue.

[george]

Originally Posted by Vigilante375

Better just go ahead and change your oil pump. Better to do it now than some time later that's more of an inconvenience.

That right there is it saying I'm giving you all I got but I haven't got much left in me.

Agreed. As Zach from Katech said in another thread, this is phase one of failure. Which is the initial crack in the vain of the oil pump.

[SammYyYyY]

I'm going to add another affirmation that it is time for a new pump. I was hyper paranoid about mine and had the pump replaced as soon as I noticed it idling at about 27 PSI warm (it honestly was a shot in the dark, I wasn't sure if it had actually failed or not, but my warranty was about to expire so I figured I'd take it into the dealer and see what they said). They ended up approving the work; low and behold, it was at the very beginning stages of failure.

Don't risk it. Get it done. Throw a cam in there while you're at it, if you're paying for the labor. Sadly I couldn't do that myself since mine was warranty work.

[LT4Greg]

My 2017 is way out of warranty so I would have to pay for replacement of the oil pump. I’m just keeping a check on it and my fingers crossed that it doesn’t fail.

[george]

At temp what I show

[SammYyYyY]

Originally Posted by george

At temp what I show

This is what normal operating pressure should look like. Slight drops to 27-29 (especially after WOT pulls) briefly aren't alarming either.

[taylorforschool@gmail.com]

Originally Posted by SammYyYyY

This is what normal operating pressure should look like. Slight drops to 27-29 (especially after WOT pulls) briefly aren't alarming either.

That’s what my 2018 looks like at 18900