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Old 03-19-2018, 04:52 PM   #15
Hyperlinkblue
 
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Name:  7FE8DAEF-95A4-47CA-8FFE-4F26D3EF701A.jpg
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Size:  63.3 KB and yes there is still good airflow out of the vent!!

Last edited by Hyperlinkblue; 03-20-2018 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 04-30-2018, 04:47 PM   #16
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Someone please help!!! I followed these instructions but now my car isn’t running. When I start it all kinds of service lights are flashing like service air bags etc. None of the gauges on the car are working either.
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSnakeEater View Post
Someone please help!!! I followed these instructions but now my car isn’t running. When I start it all kinds of service lights are flashing like service air bags etc. None of the gauges on the car are working either.
The instructions are solid. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. I think I know what the problem may be. When you reference the diagram the pic with the pin #s represent the harness connection as if it was unplugged and you were staring down the end of the plug. From this perspective the #9 pin is located 2nd position on the top in from the left as the picture denotes. But once you flip the connector around and plug it in, the pin is now located on the top, 2nd pin in from the RIGHT (not the left) as you are staring at the back side of the harness connector. My bet is you are referencing the diagram in reverse. Make sure you ID the wire with the correct color. Pin #9 is Violet with a Gray stripe as identified on the PDF diagram. If you have it reversed, you may likely have tapped into the green wire (pin #2) which is the GMLAN serial data wire. This would certainly cause erratic problems.

Check it out and let us know. It may save someone else from the same headache if, indeed, this is what it is.

EDIT: I added some clarity to the picture on Post #4.

Last edited by TMS; 04-30-2018 at 06:22 PM. Reason: Added clarity to reference post #4
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlinkblue View Post
Attachment 925133 and yes there is still good airflow out of the vent!!
Mind sharing how you did this?
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Old 10-01-2018, 06:28 PM   #19
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Hey TMS, which way did you route the O2 sensor cable?
Did you use the sound tube port? If yes, how did you block off the remainder of the hole? I assume the opening is wider than the cable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMS View Post
The instructions are solid. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. I think I know what the problem may be. When you reference the diagram the pic with the pin #s represent the harness connection as if it was unplugged and you were staring down the end of the plug. From this perspective the #9 pin is located 2nd position on the top in from the left as the picture denotes. But once you flip the connector around and plug it in, the pin is now located on the top, 2nd pin in from the RIGHT (not the left) as you are staring at the back side of the harness connector. My bet is you are referencing the diagram in reverse. Make sure you ID the wire with the correct color. Pin #9 is Violet with a Gray stripe as identified on the PDF diagram. If you have it reversed, you may likely have tapped into the green wire (pin #2) which is the GMLAN serial data wire. This would certainly cause erratic problems.

Check it out and let us know. It may save someone else from the same headache if, indeed, this is what it is.

EDIT: I added some clarity to the picture on Post #4.
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Old 10-01-2018, 07:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G2K View Post
Hey TMS, which way did you route the O2 sensor cable?
Did you use the sound tube port? If yes, how did you block off the remainder of the hole? I assume the opening is wider than the cable.
On the ZL1 there is no sound tube. Instead there is a plastic factory block off plate. I shaved the structural ribs on the engine bay side of the plug and then drilled a small hole in the block off plate and passed the wiring through. Here is a pic of the block off plate shaved but before I drilled the hole. If you look close enough you can see the part# in case you want to source the block off plate to give you a good starting place.


Then, I routed the sensor across the cowl and down to the passenger side primary cat. I welded in an extra bung for the wideband sensor. See pic.
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Last edited by TMS; 10-01-2018 at 08:09 PM.
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Old 10-01-2018, 07:55 PM   #21
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And some people wonder how we win so many wars...

Strong work TMS. Sometimes I just look thru threads that have nothing to do with my current needs (I've also learned you never know what your future needs may be) and marvel at the innovation.

Guess I'm easily entertained, but I find it amazing! I believe they call it American ingenuity and its a real thing they try to teach in other places. In the mean time, lets just out run guys like that smug Dodge owner who acted put out when I complimented the "shaker" hood on his Hemi like he designed it himself...
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Old 10-02-2018, 11:56 AM   #22
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Thank you so much man!! super clear, since I have a rotofab with sound tube delete i had installed the provided blocker and you answered perfectly my question. Thanks again.

Now, I'm looking for a gauge pod on sale. Kinda mad how expensive these pods are for camaros. In all my other cars I went with Autometer's pods (which is basically one, if not the best name brand for gauges/pods) and theirs are $22, $50 for the carbon fiber ones. Hurts having to pay $100 for a "no name brand" only known in the camaro world pod.

That and I am kinda cheap too. :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMS View Post
On the ZL1 there is no sound tube. Instead there is a plastic factory block off plate. I shaved the structural ribs on the engine bay side of the plug and then drilled a small hole in the block off plate and passed the wiring through. Here is a pic of the block off plate shaved but before I drilled the hole. If you look close enough you can see the part# in case you want to source the block off plate to give you a good starting place.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...67597ea1f1.jpg

Then, I routed the sensor across the cowl and down to the passenger side primary cat. I welded in an extra bung for the wideband sensor. See pic.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...61b60c8477.jpg
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Old 10-02-2018, 12:20 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlinkblue View Post
Attachment 925133 and yes there is still good airflow out of the vent!!
Looks great. Can you give us some detail as to how you mounted this gauge in the vent. It looks professional. How much work was involved and how hard was it to fabricate a holder for the gauge.

Thx
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:27 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by 1LE Red Dragon View Post
Looks great. Can you give us some detail as to how you mounted this gauge in the vent. It looks professional. How much work was involved and how hard was it to fabricate a holder for the gauge.

Thx
It wasnt that difficult, although i have alot of machining experience so i got creative with a set of dial calipers. On this particular AEM gauge theres 2 post with nuts. I simply cut a narrow piece of sheet metal, poped some holes in it, and picked up some nuts and it holds it in there to the vent, the strip of metal i would guess is .5x1.5 and is very thin. It just rest against the back side of the spokes when tensioned with the nuts. Now i used calipers to measure where i needed to cut, (used a blow torch and exacto knife, hot knife and butter method). You’ll basically need to cut the whole center, “open, close mechanism” out along with the flappers. Once that’s complete your left with just the spokes and a hole in the center where the knob used to be. You will then need to take the smaller OD of the back side if the gauge (theres a 1/4 inch step on the very back, take the smaller diameter/step portion), then measure ID of the vent. Then subtract the ID from OD of gauge. I then locked my calipers with the number i got and i set one point of the caliper tip on the ID of the vent spoke and the other caliper tip is where your line will be scribed on the spoke, you can scribe the line with your caliper tip now and do this to all 5 spokes. Now cut where your line is, i just make a step in the spoke so theres more meat for the metal strip i made that holds the gauge in too hold onto vs cutting straight through the spoke. This also lets the gauge recess as you can see in the pics its just about flush. I then took a drill bit, heated it, and melted my hole in the vent for the wireing to go through. I did this for my aeroforce gauge also as its 100x easier to melt through plastic then it is to cut or drill it in tight spaces. Its also way cleaner, trick is get the knife and or drill bit hot enough to glide through and not burn through. I used the shank end of the drill bit, a metal dowl or rod of proper diameter will work also of course. If you do it right theres minimal smoke. And i have a roto fab with sound tube delete, i ran my wires through that then put the cap from the rotofab back on, the wires just depress in the foam thats on the cap and everything stays sealed for the most part. Any more questions just post em, i priced out a vent before i did this and it was about 40-60 bucks so i knew if i failed id be in the hole only 60 bucks.
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:33 PM   #25
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Tap CAN bus and read data off the ECU ?
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:55 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1 View Post
Tap CAN bus and read data off the ECU ?
When you respond to someones comment hit “quote” on it so it includes the text so everyone knows what it is your referring to/talking about. No you should never be tappig into CANbus, AKA the buss at all if thats what your asking. If you want to read data just plug in a scanner to the OBD2 port.
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Old 10-03-2018, 10:00 PM   #27
Hyperlinkblue
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMS View Post
The instructions are solid. Sorry to hear you are having trouble. I think I know what the problem may be. When you reference the diagram the pic with the pin #s represent the harness connection as if it was unplugged and you were staring down the end of the plug. From this perspective the #9 pin is located 2nd position on the top in from the left as the picture denotes. But once you flip the connector around and plug it in, the pin is now located on the top, 2nd pin in from the RIGHT (not the left) as you are staring at the back side of the harness connector. My bet is you are referencing the diagram in reverse. Make sure you ID the wire with the correct color. Pin #9 is Violet with a Gray stripe as identified on the PDF diagram. If you have it reversed, you may likely have tapped into the green wire (pin #2) which is the GMLAN serial data wire. This would certainly cause erratic problems.

Check it out and let us know. It may save someone else from the same headache if, indeed, this is what it is.

EDIT: I added some clarity to the picture on Post #4.
Can i ask where you got the pinouts from??????? Online subscription?
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Old 10-03-2018, 11:02 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperlinkblue View Post
Can i ask where you got the pinouts from??????? Online subscription?
I have a subscription to ALLDATAdiy. I realized I had a bust in my link on post#3. Please reference post#3 in this thread for the pinouts. It now contains what you are looking for.
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