HELP !!! Top End Rebuild at 62K

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

1st off I want to thank everyone who has helped me so far - again and gave me the advice I asked for and needed since my last post, unless something seriously changes I have resolved myself made to rebuild the top end of the motor, a LS3 in my 2012 Chevrolet Camaro Convertible SS2 6 Spd after TSB PIP 4138P created a misfire condition in cylinder 6.

I think I have managed to save the engine from any unrepairable damage because as of right now nothing broke, there’s no metal rolling around, it’s still runs with strong oil pressure, and while it misfires at idle as far as I know I haven’t spun a bearing there are no shavings in my oil, it’s not gritty etc., the TSB has left me with a ‘creaking’ sound at or around cylinder 6 is TSB PIP 4138P after I got a SES OBD CODE of P0306. I’m still a little concerned because according to the compression test I did, I had a 125 PSI of Compression in cylinder #6, the ‘bad’ one, and 95 PSI in cylinder #8 which is right on the redline failure mark on the compression gauge, but that was not indicated as the weak cylinder, other cylinder have come up with ‘spotty’ results, my best was cylinder 1 with 190 PSI and of course my worse was 8 with 95 PSI, so even without AFM (ACTIVE FUEL MANAGEMENT) I still believe the lobes might be prematurely wearing, and I have no idea what the bottom end looks like, I will have a ‘wet test’ done to check the piston and rings just to make sure, I only have about 100 post it notes reminding me to have that done before I have it towed home so let hope I don’t forget - is a wet test the only way to check the button end ?

As with any massive undertaking I have more questions then answers, of course needed to reaffirm the bottom end is sound, what parts to use, what ones not to use, what to avoid, tips, tricks, where should I stay with OEM and where should I stray, every and anything etc., to me it’s all worth mentioning and while I not a complete ‘noobie ’ its been 20 years since I have ripped apart my daily driver and it has been a long time since I have done anything this ‘in depth’ going back to then back to the days of carburetors and distributor caps’ with a timing light. I don’t have a lift, small compressor and will be using some of the same tools from the last time I torn a engine down, quite frankly I feel nervous, sick, excited, intimidated and everything you can imagine. I can’t get spare the $4500 the shop wants to do the job, a lot more has gone one with this so if you want the whole story go back and read the other 2 posts, but since I don’t have to worrried about stripping my third party warranty because I modified the car I might as well try to make the best out of it, and if I made a mistake admins’ and I was suppose to tie these post together I apologize.

This saga is in the 2 previous post, this will be the final post until I can update the results, including each part, cost, etc along with my general labor time (not book time I probably won’t even be close) and then why I used the parts that I did, which is where I am hoping of getting a lot of help from you guys many of you have been down this road already and can prevent me from making some serious mistakes. I’m positive I am not the only one who that needed to do this of off necessity, unfortunately the TSB doesn’t give you a parts list.

At a motor with 62K what should I ‘lookout for’, what’s the best what to prep the block and the bottom end for what’s coming? What are the things I should do, do I just leave the bottom end alone after I pull the heads (besides cleaning the everything up to prep for reassembly? I will need to remove the intake assembly to pull the lifters, if I didn’t this would take 1/2 as long, I believe I can do a quality rebuild for 1/4 of the $4500 and use that cost to put in some quality performance parts, but which ones ?

This wasn’t something I wanted to do now for lots of reasons, I would love to hear everyone, every if you have a single tip I would like to hear from you, but please, especially if you had to do a rebuild like this because of similar circumstances, share the knowledge, tell me about it, how did it work out. I’m not going to try and push that motor on top end rebuild but how far did you put it and did it last, have any futhur problems

Once again thank you all, some of you guys had already put me in touch with so great people and I just waiting to see what the general consensus on what seems to be the best parts to use, BTW the car is COMPLETELY STOCK, nothing has every been modified of done, we could renamed it ‘Frankenstein’ . . .

Thanks

Paul

[Avenging Orange]

8Like you, it has been years since I tore down an engine. But, in the long run, the basics stay the same. It's a push rod engine. It's the electronic stuff that throws me.
IMO, with suspect cylinder pressure, I would tear the whole thing down. Why risk it.
We always had good luck with OEM parts.....but these days, they can be more expensive than quality aftermarket.
I won't go into a long dissertation.....just do it.

[carjockey71@gmail.com]

I don’t have the facility, budget, time to pull the block and strip it down and start over otherwise I’m with you, because that is the right way, this is still my daily driver and I’m still writing a check to the bank every month for the payments.

I live in a deed restricted community and if my neighbors (the ones who wait for people to break the rules) ratted me out the fine alone arent work it, and my garage is jammed packed full of junk at this point I can’t even manage to get the car into my garage, I just dished out the 1st weeks rental and my wife already want to know when do I think it will be done and it hasn’t even been towed back to my house, my kids are still on vacation and I’m still trying to figure out the financial end of this mess while shopping for parts for the top ex rebuild. As I am now committed to doing this myself, I might as well pop some performance parts in but not with the stick heads, valves, etc., the obvious have a issue taking it completely stock and I definitely don’t want to do this again unless I’m pulling it out and going for big numbers.

I ran compression on all the cylinders without the serpentine belt attached and got a solid 150 psi on all cyclinders, this doesn’t replacing a wet test which still needs to be done but as long as the bottom end is good the top end should be capable of a rebuild without straining the bottom.

I not looking to do a top end build and pull 900 HP with this and hope for the best, it trying to get a all the advice I can handle on what not to do, what should I do, parts to use parts not to use, are certain parts worth reusing (heads) after all I am on a budget but there a lot of knowledge here and I am trying to tap into that and do the best build I can, as always I thank you for all the input and welcome more - I’m ramping up my learning curve and getting ready for the big tear down.

Any information is appreciated

Thanks

Paul

[Livernois Motorsports]

Hey Paul in all reality we would use oem parts except head bolts. We can always help you on the head rebuild on your factory ones or even buy a new set. We have some great setups that pickup around 100hp to the ground just off heads and cam. I can help you with pushrods and lifters and all. If you need any more questions answered just let me know my name is Jake. Also our number is 313-561-5500

[Avenging Orange]

Good to hear that maybe all cylinders are holding pressure.
In that case, I'd send the heads out to be reworked, new lifters, pushrods, timing chain and oil pump. Cam at your discretion. I'd go a little larger but keeping within the bounds of a good single beehive spring and close her up.
But if you cam, you'll need headers and tune.....which adds cost.
I wish you luck.

[christianchevell]

GMPP cnc ported heads with hollow stems for $1400 range and some new rockers best IMO, check all pushrods. New lifter baskets, new head gaskets and new TTY bolts...and after all that the extra 100$ for pushrods and $ for better springs as the ones on the new heads are not even able to do stock lift are insurance, just as many use bushing rockers.

And check all the lifters, for $100 again.... and while your at it look for the ls3 chain dampener to be shot.... Just some things I would do.