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Old 01-14-2021, 03:07 PM   #57
MANNAXMAN
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildchevy View Post
18 2SS 15k no problems and expect none.
I was pretty much in your same situation at 15k miles and was optimistic that I would not experience the issues others have. However, a few weeks before my B2B warranty expired (time wise, not mile wise), both retractable panels broke. A few months after the B2B warranty expired, I noticed the rear window was starting to delaminate.
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Old 02-16-2021, 06:43 PM   #58
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I’m now at 53k miles and my rear window has delaminated for the second time. I’m looking into replacing the flawed gm top with one from GAHH; their site mentions they use a different adhesive for the rear window which helps prevent this issue but it may just be a marketing ploy. If anyone has purchased a top from GAHH in the past, let me know what you thought of their quality.
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Old 02-16-2021, 08:01 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by the chosen one View Post
I’m now at 53k miles and my rear window has delaminated for the second time. I’m looking into replacing the flawed gm top with one from GAHH; their site mentions they use a different adhesive for the rear window which helps prevent this issue but it may just be a marketing ploy. If anyone has purchased a top from GAHH in the past, let me know what you thought of their quality.
Well, that sucks.. I don’t know anything about GAHH, but would be interested in knowing if they provided the original and or the most recent tops to Chevy. (To your point on GM’s flawed design)

Have you thought about trying to pull the glass and apply new adhesive? I just watched a YouTube video on this and it looked pretty simple....Actually, I’m thinking our verts may be easier, since it looks like the glass is set from the outside.(could be wrong on this, but that how I see it).

Last edited by Chutzpah; 02-16-2021 at 10:14 PM. Reason: Adding question
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Old 02-17-2021, 07:09 AM   #60
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Chutzpah, please post link to that YouTube video you mentioned that showed how to reapply adhesive.
Thanks
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Old 02-17-2021, 10:07 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by Weege View Post
Chutzpah, please post link to that YouTube video you mentioned that showed how to reapply adhesive.
Thanks
I’d rather not not post a video of a procedure that’s not 100% applicable to our tops (what I’ve seen is the fabric over the glass, our looks like it sets into an integrated groove).

The videos I’ve seen have some good ideas on how to secure the glass, along with all types of products to use as adhesive. A lot of the products are not what I’d consider the correct application.

There are a couple other items to note. I wouldn’t half ass a repair and just try to fix the separated area(s) (as some of them do). I’d have to confirm the routing and and connection point for the rear defrost. Maybe it’s not serviceable.

I’m not convinced that the adhesive is totally to blame for all of the separations. Like any opinion, I could be way out of line here. But, my 2016 top was tight as a drum, all the way around the glass (sold it with no separation at 9K). My 2019 has puckers on either side of the glass. In the 2016’s case, this tension puts unintended loads on the sealant, and would be more likely to fail ( in particular under extreme temperatures). I’ve attached a photos, one from my 2019 and two from a thread on this failure.
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Last edited by Chutzpah; 02-17-2021 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Added another picture
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Old 02-17-2021, 02:48 PM   #62
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My rear window is coming unglued at what I'm guessing is the inside edge of the window opening in the top, similar to what classicrockr posted here. I do not drive with the windows down while the top is up. From the pictures I've seen posted and the posts I've read, it sounds like most ungluing issues start at the outside edge of the glass.

I did read somewhere on this forum that someone just had the glass replaced or re-glued. Sounds like a much better option than getting the entire top replaced.
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Old 02-17-2021, 03:51 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by MANNAXMAN View Post
My rear window is coming unglued at what I'm guessing is the inside edge of the window opening in the top, similar to what classicrockr posted here. I do not drive with the windows down while the top is up. From the pictures I've seen posted and the posts I've read, it sounds like most ungluing issues start at the outside edge of the glass.

I did read somewhere on this forum that someone just had the glass replaced or re-glued. Sounds like a much better option than getting the entire top replaced.

Yep, I agree with you on trying to repair, if possible. If I remember correctly, the guy you’re talking about said he had the glass replaced, but when he showed the warranty repair order, it was actually the entire top. Although, I may be wrong...

I’m having a hard time buying the adhesive is the sole culprit. If that was the case, we’d be having wholesale failures. The other possibility is poor surface prep before the caulking was installed. Just seeing the difference in top tightness between the cars I owned, kinda made me think...hmmm?

Good luck
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Old 02-18-2021, 12:01 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chutzpah View Post
Well, that sucks.. I don’t know anything about GAHH, but would be interested in knowing if they provided the original and or the most recent tops to Chevy. (To your point on GM’s flawed design)

Have you thought about trying to pull the glass and apply new adhesive? I just watched a YouTube video on this and it looked pretty simple....Actually, I’m thinking our verts may be easier, since it looks like the glass is set from the outside.(could be wrong on this, but that how I see it).
I actually purchased 3m adhesive primer and window weld to attempt a repair myself but it’s too cold in Michigan for the window weld to cure properly - so I’ll have to wait at least two months before I can try to re-glue it.

And just for anyone’s curiosity the trim shop that replaced my top the last time quoted me $2550 and that’s using a less expensive and terribly flawed oem top not an aftermarket one. I did try the dealer again and they said it’s not covered even though it was replaced under warranty before. I also called GMs customer service helpline and complained and they actually opened a cost assistance case for me but at most that will probably only cover half the cost. If you’re dealing with the same problem out of warranty give GMs main customer service a try.
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Last edited by the chosen one; 02-18-2021 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 02-18-2021, 12:19 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chutzpah View Post
Yep, I agree with you on trying to repair, if possible. If I remember correctly, the guy you’re talking about said he had the glass replaced, but when he showed the warranty repair order, it was actually the entire top. Although, I may be wrong...

I’m having a hard time buying the adhesive is the sole culprit. If that was the case, we’d be having wholesale failures. The other possibility is poor surface prep before the caulking was installed. Just seeing the difference in top tightness between the cars I owned, kinda made me think...hmmm?

Good luck
I was the guy that posted I just had the glass replaced ~2 years ago. But after this whole ordeal recently and speaking to the dealer I’ve come to find out that the entire top was replaced. However my service sheet from that warranty repair says “replace RR glass”. The dealer didn’t really give me a straight answer why it’s written up that way.
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Old 02-19-2021, 08:31 AM   #66
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As a last ditch effort I wonder if drilling small holes through the glass and underlying fabric with carbide bits would work. Then very small screws and nuts could be placed to do the main holding. Sealant could be used in between to waterproof. It wouldn't be too pretty but would save a couple of grand for out of warranty cases.
It's just my imagination running away with me...
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Old 02-19-2021, 08:54 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weege View Post
As a last ditch effort I wonder if drilling small holes through the glass and underlying fabric with carbide bits would work. Then very small screws and nuts could be placed to do the main holding. Sealant could be used in between to waterproof. It wouldn't be too pretty but would save a couple of grand for out of warranty cases.
It's just my imagination running away with me...
I wouldn't try drilling the glass. It's likely to explode unless you know how to drill tempered glass.

If I was going to experiment with a DIY temporary fix, I would partly open the top to de-stress the fabric, use a clear RTV like this:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3242013&rt=rud
and get some then go for something like these old-school long-reach clamps: https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tool...cam-clamp.html

I did something similar to this hack to buy about 2 years of time with my wife's toyota vert top when the rear glass leaked on her daily driver. By the time the glue fix started to fail, the fabric was shredding from baking in the sun. Not beautiful, but better than duct tape.

But the single best thing you can do is find the best convertible top restorer in your area and ask their advice. The one that has been doing it for 20 years and does 2-3 tops a week. At least two Chevy dealers near me send their vert cars to one such fellow for top work. They don't let their techs touch the cars since they'll just screw them up. I had a specialty shop in Bradenton replace my wife's top, and he did a fantastic job. Worth every penny.

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Old 02-19-2021, 12:43 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunkk View Post
I wouldn't try drilling the glass. It's likely to explode unless you know how to drill tempered glass.

If I was going to experiment with a DIY temporary fix, I would partly open the top to de-stress the fabric,
use a clear RTV like this:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3242013&rt=rud
and get some then go for something like these old-school long-reach clamps: https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tool...cam-clamp.html

I did something similar to this hack to buy about 2 years of time with my wife's toyota vert top when the rear glass leaked on her daily driver. By the time the glue fix started to fail, the fabric was shredding from baking in the sun. Not beautiful, but better than duct tape.

But the single best thing you can do is find the best convertible top restorer in your area and ask their advice. The one that has been doing it for 20 years and does 2-3 tops a week. At least two Chevy dealers near me send their vert cars to one such fellow for top work. They don't let their techs touch the cars since they'll just screw them up. I had a specialty shop in Bradenton replace my wife's top, and he did a fantastic job. Worth every penny.


Yep, I’d solidly agree on the highlighted.

If was to try a permanent repair myself, I’d probably use a different sealer (but clear silicone is no slouch) The defrost heater looks to be serviceable, I just jumped in the back seat and took a look. It felt like there was a connector just under the interior fabric (you can reach under). I’d probably use these clamps (or at least try to). The reinstallation “looks” like it would be breeze. Of course, everything looks easy to me until I start working on it. With that said, I’d try to remove the glass by first inserting some fishing line through the failure. Then, applying some heat and sawing away. If that wasn’t possible, I’d carefully razor closest to the glass, from the failure area all the way around . It looks like the glass is simply set in a plastic retainer.
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Old 04-26-2021, 05:04 PM   #69
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Ok here is a problem I’m running into today I went to put my top down and it says it can’t because of the divider not being connected. I go to open the trunk and it says I must complete the top down cycle to allow the trunk to open WTH? I can’t open the trunk and I can’t put the top down? Now what anyone have a solution?
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Old 04-26-2021, 05:46 PM   #70
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Ok here is a problem I’m running into today I went to put my top down and it says it can’t because of the divider not being connected. I go to open the trunk and it says I must complete the top down cycle to allow the trunk to open WTH? I can’t open the trunk and I can’t put the top down? Now what anyone have a solution?
Have you tried cycling it back up? Maybe that will clear the code to allow you in the trunk to secure the panel.
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