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Old 04-28-2017, 08:22 AM   #85
BlaqWhole
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I don't think anyone ever really breaks a vehicle in properly. It would be nice if they offered a "Break-in" mode for some vehicles. Maybe it'll cap your RPMs at 4000 and have timers telling you when to accelerate or decelerate (so you don't travel at a specific speed too long). And maybe when you start it up it can have a timer telling you how long to let it warm up...stuff like that. Because leave it to me, and a lot of us, these cars probably will not get broken in according to text book procedure. It should also log the mileage and allow you to save the info. So it'll say something like "break in procedure started at 57 miles and ended at 1522 miles" or something like that.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:14 PM   #86
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Quick update:

I've worked with/for, and spoken with dozens of engine manufacturers, from small-race-shop kind of guys to engineers at worldwide engine manufacturers. So far, all of them said the same thing: don't "drive it like you stole it", but don't baby it during break-in. Drive it hard, then take it easy. Go fast, then go slow. Do a couple full-power runs, then let it come down from those temps naturally.

Basically, follow the same break-in procedure for tires and brake pads (i.e.: put it all on the car at the same time, and do all the break-in together), but for a longer period.

However, I did not have any information specific to the LT1. Perhaps our engine is different than the SBC, LSx, Coyote, etc. engines that I was familiar with??? So, I did what any reasonable person would do . . .

I called Blackdog Speed Shop. You know . . . the guys who are racing a 6th gen Camaro in the Pirelli World Challenge Series? I wanted to know who built their motors, and how they were broken in.

You - "But wait Trans Ram, they're using race motors that are built for 1 purpose. This isn't the same thing as what we have in our cars! Your conclusions are wrong!"

Actually, to race in the GTS class, the engine must be "high OEM content sealed “crate” engines", as per Pirelli WC rules. They may make some modifications, such as adding oil coolers, unrestricted spark plugs (unrestricted type, must retain same number), etc. It goes so far as to say that they must even use the stock exhaust manifold (though exhaust after the manifold is unrestricted except to termination).

So, I asked them how they broke in their motors. Well, they said that they drive their racecar around the track for 1500 miles, never getting above 4000rpm, never above 50% throttle, never letting it stay at the same speed, etc.

Just kidding! They said no such thing!! They said that they take the car out on the track and do some "shakedown" laps. Basically, they run it around the track at 80-90%. Not 80-90% throttle, though. They give it full throttle at times. And they do everything else that they'd do during a race. They just don't do it all the time. They'll do some warmup laps, then some racing laps, then some "cruising" laps, then some more racing laps, and finally some cooldown laps.

I know, I know . . . "But, Trans Ram, these are racing guys. They don't care if they blow their engine!"

True. But, our cars are warrantied. GM gives us a new one if we blow it up.

Anyway, just thought I'd share.
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Old 06-02-2017, 01:44 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 00 Trans Ram View Post
Quick update:

I've worked with/for, and spoken with dozens of engine manufacturers, from small-race-shop kind of guys to engineers at worldwide engine manufacturers. So far, all of them said the same thing: don't "drive it like you stole it", but don't baby it during break-in. Drive it hard, then take it easy. Go fast, then go slow. Do a couple full-power runs, then let it come down from those temps naturally.

Basically, follow the same break-in procedure for tires and brake pads (i.e.: put it all on the car at the same time, and do all the break-in together), but for a longer period.

However, I did not have any information specific to the LT1. Perhaps our engine is different than the SBC, LSx, Coyote, etc. engines that I was familiar with??? So, I did what any reasonable person would do . . .

I called Blackdog Speed Shop. You know . . . the guys who are racing a 6th gen Camaro in the Pirelli World Challenge Series? I wanted to know who built their motors, and how they were broken in.

You - "But wait Trans Ram, they're using race motors that are built for 1 purpose. This isn't the same thing as what we have in our cars! Your conclusions are wrong!"

Actually, to race in the GTS class, the engine must be "high OEM content sealed “crate” engines", as per Pirelli WC rules. They may make some modifications, such as adding oil coolers, unrestricted spark plugs (unrestricted type, must retain same number), etc. It goes so far as to say that they must even use the stock exhaust manifold (though exhaust after the manifold is unrestricted except to termination).

So, I asked them how they broke in their motors. Well, they said that they drive their racecar around the track for 1500 miles, never getting above 4000rpm, never above 50% throttle, never letting it stay at the same speed, etc.

Just kidding! They said no such thing!! They said that they take the car out on the track and do some "shakedown" laps. Basically, they run it around the track at 80-90%. Not 80-90% throttle, though. They give it full throttle at times. And they do everything else that they'd do during a race. They just don't do it all the time. They'll do some warmup laps, then some racing laps, then some "cruising" laps, then some more racing laps, and finally some cooldown laps.

I know, I know . . . "But, Trans Ram, these are racing guys. They don't care if they blow their engine!"

True. But, our cars are warrantied. GM gives us a new one if we blow it up.

Anyway, just thought I'd share.
that seems reasonable
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Old 09-28-2017, 02:47 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqWhole View Post
And maybe when you start it up it can have a timer telling you how long to let it warm up...stuff like that.
It already does, on the DIC under performance ot has oil temperature.

If you mean warm up as in idle before driving, you shouldnt do that anyway as it'll warm up quicker and cause less damage if you drive it lightly while its warming up
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Old 03-24-2018, 01:55 PM   #89
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I followed the break in procedure from the operators manual to the letter. Now the engine burns a quart of oil every 500 miles (13,500 miles on the odometer now).
I'm now a firm believer in the drive-it-like-you-stole-it break in process to seat rings.
Taking my car into the dealership next week where they will tear it down and find out what's up. I'll report back when they get to root cause.
I suspect a valve seal to be the culprit, we'll see...
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:01 AM   #90
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Unfortunately, The 1LE that I was taken for a ride in at the dealership was beat to hell within the first 200 miles. I'm afraid that's the case for most "lot" cars. The salesman wants to show off the performance side of the car's and has no idea about break -in's.

The guy who took me for the ride, put it straight into track mode and broke my neck 3 or four times before I asked him to please stop.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:42 PM   #91
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There are many car reviews on youtube or Motortred, they pretty much beat most of cars. Lol
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Old 01-08-2019, 01:57 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlaqWhole View Post
It would be nice if they offered a "Break-in" mode for some vehicles. Maybe it'll cap your RPMs at 4000 and have timers telling you when to accelerate or decelerate (so you don't travel at a specific speed too long). And maybe when you start it up it can have a timer telling you how long to let it warm up...stuff like that.
When I picked up my '19 ZL1 A10 a few weeks ago, the saleman/product knowledge guy told me the car actually had a feature like this. "It's in the computer.... You can floor it and it will short shift (before 4000 RPM) until the break-in is complete, try it and see, the Vette's do it too". I was skeptical of his claim, but didn't want to actually test it right off the lot. I hit 500 miles today, and figured it would be OK at this point to give it a quick try. Went WOT and there is no limitation of any sort.

I will now attempt to limit my right foot, for the next 1,000 miles.
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Old 01-16-2019, 12:05 PM   #93
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Brake Break in

Can anyone tell me how to break in the brakes while also breaking in the engine? They seem to contradict each other if you are following the directions completely. Is it important to bed the brakes immediately, or can that wait until after engine break in without consequence?

That said, I lean toward a little hard driving during break in, but with appropriate moderation. I've never bedded brakes though, and was curious of peoples thoughts on how that can coexist with the factory instructions for engine break in.
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Old 01-16-2019, 03:46 PM   #94
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Not sure if we can link outside websites but I'm goin' for it!

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have ALWAYS run in new engines hard. No oil consumption issues (even with some that are supposedly 'known' to use oil), no longevity issues, all my engines always made excellent power on a dyno when stock etc. Manufacturers break is a myth. Maybe they want your new car to use oil and have reduced engine life?
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:40 AM   #95
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Now you worry me. I just got my 2.0T off the lot, having 350 miles on it. No idea how it was driven but I am sure that it wasn't according to break-in specifications. Damn, now I will have a new long-term anxiety for the next years :( Aaaaaaaand.. I have no idea how to drive it now until the 1500 mark. I am already at 500.
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Old 03-21-2019, 11:21 AM   #96
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It's a little confusing.
The performance\Track supplement manual included with the User manual for the 1LE mentions the break in at 400 Miles, not 1400.
Maybe there is some truth to the old saying;
Break her in the way you intend to drive her for the rest of her years.
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Old 02-24-2020, 05:44 PM   #97
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I know this is an older topic, but I don't think it ever really dies. I want to premise these comments by saying that I'm not a mechanical engineer/expert or mechanic and I don't work for GM/Chevrolet, but I was recently watching some documentaries on the build factories for both the 5th gen and 6th gen Camaros. First, tolerances on these new engines have gotten so good that they are now taking measurements in microns on the production line. This helps to alleviate some of the need for traditional break-ins, but not all of it. As far as testing the motor separately once it is built, they don't test it traditionally by running fuel through it. They test with forced air, which they mention only takes 80 secs to get up to speed, and then they check for leaks. Other than that, the only break-in as a completed vehicle seems to be driving it off the line for water testing and driving it between transportation spots (on a truck, on a train, waiting in a parking lot/warehouse). So what is my point?!? Overall, I believe that the break-in recommended by GM in the manual is still important to thoroughly sync all the systems and components of the vehicle together as a complete system. I also believe that it allows the vehicles computer to learn about the driver and what to expect for inputs while driving on the road and that all of this is important to keep your new vehicle well maintained and running for many years to come. Is is absolutely necessary, no. Any idiot with some money can go down and buy a car and mash the pedal to the floor as hard as he can for as long as he can. Will that car blow up? Probably not. Technology and tolerances are too good these days for that to happen with anything that can pass all the regulations to be on the street these days. Will that car last as long or hold up as well as the same car where the owner has done a proper break-in and keeps his vehicle well maintained? I think not.



As for what I intend to do. I plan to mostly follow the recommended break-in with the following additions. First, drive the car for a week or 50 about miles, whichever is less. After the first 50, do a initial oil change and if I haven't already, install a catch can (but preferably before this point, but no later). Then I follow the break-in plan for the rest of the 1500 miles of the car. Follow this up with a fluids change (oil and transmission). Beyond that, it is just following the recommended and needed maintenance with quality products and enjoying the ride.


I was thinking about how I need to drive for the break-in as my new car is almost here and I realize that I live in absolutely the best area for break-in of a vehicle. I live in a semi-rural area of southern California, so there is never such a thing as a no driving season. Beyond that, there are a lot of fairly well maintained country back roads through low winding hills and smaller mountain ranges.



So all I have to do is go for leisurely weekend drives through the hills. All the turns and hills will make sure that I don't keep the car at a constant speed and break-in the brakes, tires and transmission all at the same time. The occasional traffic and weekend will keep the speed and RPMs down. All I have to do is enjoy a nice cruise and my break-in will be over before I know it.


And as for people still harping on the skip-shift feature, get over it. Yes, it kinda contradicts how you are supposed to be driving, but it saves us from having to spends hundreds and sometimes even thousands of dollars in taxes and can be fixed in about 5 mins with a $12 part. I'll take that trade off any day.
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Old 02-24-2020, 06:23 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shawnqa800720 View Post
Can anyone tell me how to break in the brakes while also breaking in the engine? They seem to contradict each other if you are following the directions completely. Is it important to bed the brakes immediately, or can that wait until after engine break in without consequence?

That said, I lean toward a little hard driving during break in, but with appropriate moderation. I've never bedded brakes though, and was curious of peoples thoughts on how that can coexist with the factory instructions for engine break in.
You can do the brake bedding later if you want to do the engine break-in first, although I personally don't see the contradiction—sure you can accelerate to 30/60 mph and then brake to 5/10 mph a couple times without revving the engine over 4000?

(FWIW I did a hard engine break-in as per GM's crate engine instructions, with early half throttle and WOT accelerations to around 4000-4200 rpm, and began using the full rpm range at a little over 500 miles, after the first oil change. I always wait for the oil to warm up before giving the car the beans.

My engine consumes practically zero oil and has had good power since then.

Just my 2 cents' worth.)
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