[greg0ry]

Hi guys, i'm going to switch out my OEM NPP for some Flowmaster American Thunder axleback equipped w/ NPP. I am planning to do the install myself but my question here is: is it as simple as unplugging the OEM NPP plugs out of the car and plugging in the Flowmaster NPP plugs in? Or is there more to is than just that? Also, anyone know how the Flowmaster American Thunder axleback is? Compared to MBRP and Borla or other aftermarket exhausts? Does it drone?! If so, is it bad or chill?! This one is a good deal for an NPP axleback!

THANK YOU

[Gunkk]

You unbolt the actuators from your current exhaust and reinstall on the new.

Here are the instructions so you can RTFM.

[Zaqwert6]

I ran the Flowmasters for about a week, drone was unbearable. Switched to Borla. Absolutely perfect now.

[Chris C 1SS 1LE]

Ha. Drone. None...that fake noise sound tube is worse. Get rid of that while you're at it. IMHO

[KingLT1]

Disconnect the the NPP actuators, put jack stands under the muffler, measure and cut the 2 pipes, unbolt hanger brackets for muffler, remove muffler, swap NPP actuators over to the FM NPP, Install FM mufflers...etc I would use some permatex ultra copper around the joining pipes before clamping them down.

*The flowmaster NPP exhaust comes with instructions that are clear and concise. It's super easy to install. Just make sure you have a good sawzall blade before cutting the pipes and use a file to clean the edges after the cut.

The drone is very minimal to non existent with the valves closed. If you drive with the valves open, expect some drone around 1500rpm. It's not bad and lets you know that you have bald eagles under the hood instead of V-tech.

[keystonemedical]

Ill be looking at adding a axle back on my ZL1/ LE in the next few weeks. Im waiting to see what options I have come Black Friday. All the research Ive done on the NPP installs everything seems pretty straight forward. It probably makes things more pleasant if you had a lift. Im leaning towards Borla or Stainless Works just due to the fact that at somepoint Ill have a complete system with headers underneath it and I want everything the same manufacture. I had a Borla system on my Gen5 SS a few years ago that I installed myself and everything went together very well.

[greg0ry]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

You unbolt the actuators from your current exhaust and reinstall on the new.

Here are the instructions so you can RTFM.

Thanks

[greg0ry]

Originally Posted by Zaqwert6

I ran the Flowmasters for about a week, drone was unbearable. Switched to Borla. Absolutely perfect now.

If only borla wasn't so expensive that's the best one. But damn, unbearable?! Think I'm gonna go mbrp no valve then.

[greg0ry]

Originally Posted by Chris C 1SS 1LE

Ha. Drone. None...that fake noise sound tube is worse. Get rid of that while you're at it. IMHO

Wait, watchya mean?!

[greg0ry]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Disconnect the the NPP actuators, put jack stands under the muffler, measure and cut the 2 pipes, unbolt hanger brackets for muffler, remove muffler, swap NPP actuators over to the FM NPP, Install FM mufflers...etc I would use some permatex ultra copper around the joining pipes before clamping them down.

*The flowmaster NPP exhaust comes with instructions that are clear and concise. It's super easy to install. Just make sure you have a good sawzall blade before cutting the pipes and use a file to clean the edges after the cut.

The drone is very minimal to non existent with the valves closed. If you drive with the valves open, expect some drone around 1500rpm. It's not bad and lets you know that you have bald eagles under the hood instead of V-tech.

Thanks so much! Lol at the last part. Enjoyed this very helpful message!

[greg0ry]

Originally Posted by keystonemedical

Ill be looking at adding a axle back on my ZL1/ LE in the next few weeks. Im waiting to see what options I have come Black Friday. All the research Ive done on the NPP installs everything seems pretty straight forward. It probably makes things more pleasant if you had a lift. Im leaning towards Borla or Stainless Works just due to the fact that at somepoint Ill have a complete system with headers underneath it and I want everything the same manufacture. I had a Borla system on my Gen5 SS a few years ago that I installed myself and everything went together very well.

You can't go wrong with Borla 100 %. Also, I don't think even black Friday can beat juicedmotorsports.com with coupon code "camaro6"!... Can it? You can get a borla atak with npp for 1360 out the door no tax or shipping fees.

[retmil]

FYI - I had the MBRP on my 17SS and replaced it because the drone was way too loud!

[greg0ry]

Originally Posted by retmil

FYI - I had the MBRP on my 17SS and replaced it because the drone was way too loud!

Damn, for real?! D: I heard mbrp has no drone dang

[Zaqwert6]

Originally Posted by greg0ry

If only borla wasn't so expensive that's the best one. But damn, unbearable?! Think I'm gonna go mbrp no valve then.

It was for me. But it's my daily driver, and I do a lot of around town driving. It was all drone for me, ringing ears every time I stopped. Once you get out on the highway and crusing or wot, it's not so bad. It had to go.