[Camaro1973]

Update on the Might Mouse Issue:


Ill elaborate more so maybe some can chime in that have exp with it.


I have the 2650 Maggy, Kooks 2", NW 103TB, Speed Engineering Billet Valve Covers, Borla ATAK cat Back, Mighty Mouse Wild.


Issue since they did the install was that the might mouse completely filled up with oil in 100 miles. I took the car home last Tuesday it was pouring rain, Wednesday it dried out so I went outside, cleaned up the car went to start it and it was like a fog machine. Let it run a few mins, smoke calmed down but was still burning a few mins later.


Shut it off, called up CSP right away and explained what was going on, they originally thought it may have been the oring seals on the intercooler plate so they wanted it towed back to be sure.


In the process of me looking at it while scheduling a tow, i checked around for usual stuff, no leaks, oil was full, no water in oil/coolant etc. Then i decided to open the drain on the mighty mouse and it pissed out oil all over the hot headers. I cut a water bottle in half, stuck it under the drain and it filled the bottle halfway. 8oz. MM says 6oz is the FULL empty line, this was at 8oz. I drained it completely, took the clean side off and looked in the hose to the intake, was full of oil. This was all in a matter of 100 miles (the drive home) Cleaned it out best i could, started it back up smoked only just a bit, revved it to like 2500 a few times let it idle, seemed to stop then shut it off and let them know.


Next morning on Thursday before the tow, i started it back up. No smoke, No smoke on small revs.


So here we are now Monday and its still there. They are telling me that it was connected correctly, but the combination of the low profile billet valve covers and the new design of the MM wild allows for much more vaccuum and it was simply sucking oil like no other into the can, filling it up and right back into the damn intake. I looked at it too and it seemed correct, but it did have quite a bit of vacuum at idle.


These are the valve covers: https://www.speed-engineering.com/sp...ve-covers.html


They took the lid off the 2650, cleaned everything, replaced all spark plugs (again) and did a top end clean because it had a miss more then likely from all the oil that entered the cylinders. They put a restrictor on the clean side to reduce the vaccum to where it should be and so far so good they say. Hopefully it solves the problem finally or I need another option. They say the builds they've done with a cam with same setup don't have this high vacuum, wonder if the cam addition changes it? They also said the previous version doesn't do this.



If anyone can shed some light on why this would happen would love the input. Maybe it was the wrong one with stock cam, no idea Just strange.


Its not blow by, the car has 16k miles, oil is full at every oil change and burns almost nothing and of course was fine before the mods!


Thanks for listening to my rant.... 2 weeks and I have yet to drive it :(

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

They basically said its ok if you want that extra 10hp if your running out of fuel, and said it simply just isnt enough to keep the system optimal. I think just because when your at that point it might be better to just do an aux pump or a cam at that point and not waste money or time for a few extra hp and I understand this completely.

LOL at 10HP. Read one of Ted Jannetty’s many posts on this topic, very well documented on how much the voltage booster helps.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

Update on the Might Mouse Issue:


Ill elaborate more so maybe some can chime in that have exp with it.


I have the 2650 Maggy, Kooks 2", NW 103TB, Speed Engineering Billet Valve Covers, Borla ATAK cat Back, Mighty Mouse Wild.


Issue since they did the install was that the might mouse completely filled up with oil in 100 miles. I took the car home last Tuesday it was pouring rain, Wednesday it dried out so I went outside, cleaned up the car went to start it and it was like a fog machine. Let it run a few mins, smoke calmed down but was still burning a few mins later.


Shut it off, called up CSP right away and explained what was going on, they originally thought it may have been the oring seals on the intercooler plate so they wanted it towed back to be sure.


In the process of me looking at it while scheduling a tow, i checked around for usual stuff, no leaks, oil was full, no water in oil/coolant etc. Then i decided to open the drain on the mighty mouse and it pissed out oil all over the hot headers. I cut a water bottle in half, stuck it under the drain and it filled the bottle halfway. 8oz. MM says 6oz is the FULL empty line, this was at 8oz. I drained it completely, took the clean side off and looked in the hose to the intake, was full of oil. This was all in a matter of 100 miles (the drive home) Cleaned it out best i could, started it back up smoked only just a bit, revved it to like 2500 a few times let it idle, seemed to stop then shut it off and let them know.


Next morning on Thursday before the tow, i started it back up. No smoke, No smoke on small revs.


So here we are now Monday and its still there. They are telling me that it was connected correctly, but the combination of the low profile billet valve covers and the new design of the MM wild allows for much more vaccuum and it was simply sucking oil like no other into the can, filling it up and right back into the damn intake. I looked at it too and it seemed correct, but it did have quite a bit of vacuum at idle.


These are the valve covers: https://www.speed-engineering.com/sp...ve-covers.html


They took the lid off the 2650, cleaned everything, replaced all spark plugs (again) and did a top end clean because it had a miss more then likely from all the oil that entered the cylinders. They put a restrictor on the clean side to reduce the vaccum to where it should be and so far so good they say. Hopefully it solves the problem finally or I need another option. They say the builds they've done with a cam with same setup don't have this high vacuum, wonder if the cam addition changes it? They also said the previous version doesn't do this.



If anyone can shed some light on why this would happen would love the input. Maybe it was the wrong one with stock cam, no idea Just strange.


Its not blow by, the car has 16k miles, oil is full at every oil change and burns almost nothing and of course was fine before the mods!


Thanks for listening to my rant.... 2 weeks and I have yet to drive it :(

Are you running the MM mild or wild? Just wondering. I’ve got the Wild with the -12AN feed line and zero issues. Works like a champ.

There has been discussion on the board in the past about how much better baffled the stock valve covers are. Guess you might be proving that.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Are you running the MM mild or wild? Just wondering. I’ve got the Wild with the -12AN feed line and zero issues. Works like a champ.

There has been discussion on the board in the past about how much better baffled the stock valve covers are. Guess you might be proving that.

Its the newer V3 Wild which i believe they recently changed the internals. Not sure the size of the feed line, but its big. I kept wanting to ask them that but with all the crap going on, forgot. You have a cam also and more in your build, they said with the new can and the 2650 blower they haven't seen this problem with addition of a cam, and yes look inside the speed engineering covers compared to stock. Big difference. Plus they are much lower profile so i guess there's more room for oil to get scooped up under high vacuum with these.

[radz28]

While maybe not ideal, it might be worth chopping the stock valve covers up, as Magnuson specifies, and try those... While not trying to start a flaming war - vacuum and pressure balance in the PCV-system are some of the concerns of alternative catch can companies out there. At any rate - hopefully this is just a very inconvenient fluke and CSP will have you up and enjoying your new combination as reasonably quick as possible.

[Camaro1973]

Just a quick update.



Got the car back today. They put a reducer on the clean side. Apparently the new MM wild can the clean side isn't the barbed fitting like the older can and has a much larger opening allowing for so much vacuum so pass through. This and the combo of the new billet valve covers were the issue. Had a few drops of oil in the can after few hundred mile drive today.


Ill get pics of the setup tomorrow.

[radz28]

That's good news. Hopefully it's all squared away.

[EDFHOBBIES]

I have a feeling since yours is similar to mine when i was doing some tests for Vararam. I couldn't run it since the car was tuned all ready..

my setup was... DSX aux, 103TB, stock 2650, headers, and stock box that was cut running a high flow filter.. this was making 680 on the mustang then the shop installed a prototype 5 inch intake from Vararam. With no changes to the tune we picked up close to 40 hp we also made the fuel high side fall below what the tuner thought that was safe so had to pull it off. I have not been back to try the Vararam prototype CAI paired with the 112mm now that i have fuel to 1400 plus hp. I'm running the rotofab big gulp for now till I can get back to testing with Pat at Vararam. I doubt I would see 40 hp from the rotofab like I did with the Vararam product.

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

I have a feeling since yours is similar to mine when i was doing some tests for Vararam. I couldn't run it since the car was tuned all ready..

my setup was... DSX aux, 103TB, stock 2650, headers, and stock box that was cut running a high flow filter.. this was making 680 on the mustang then the shop installed a prototype 5 inch intake from Vararam. With no changes to the tune we picked up close to 40 hp we also made the fuel high side fall below what the tuner thought that was safe so had to pull it off. I have not been back to try the Vararam prototype CAI paired with the 112mm now that i have fuel to 1400 plus hp. I'm running the rotofab big gulp for now till I can get back to testing with Pat at Vararam. I doubt I would see 40 hp from the rotofab like I did with the Vararam product.

I hope they have the Vararam available soon.
Have you heard anything, when they finally release it?

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

I hope they have the Vararam available soon.
Have you heard anything, when they finally release it?

I talk to him atleast once a week just to talk and to see about stuff the company green that makes filters let a lot people go and there making a better high flowing filter for the 6 gen box he designed. They some how screwed up a few of the filters pleats and sides where they seal. Like always send a good sample then shit shows up on the order. He didn't have that problem before but like I said they let go the normal guy he used in the past.

Probably nothing on the site but seems like he told me he had a few assembles. Better to call or email or I can text him for ya.

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by EDFHOBBIES

I talk to him atleast once a week just to talk and to see about stuff the company green that makes filters let a lot people go and there making a better high flowing filter for the 6 gen box he designed. They some how screwed up a few of the filters pleats and sides where they seal. Like always send a good sample then shit shows up on the order. He didn't have that problem before but like I said they let go the normal guy he used in the past.

Probably nothing on the site but seems like he told me he had a few assembles. Better to call or email or I can text him for ya.

I see, thanks for all the info.
I email them every now and then about the release date, but they didn't reply to my last one anymore.
Planning to start my build over winter, and would love to use a Vararam intake with it. I'd have alot less trouble with emission inspections, etc. with a semi closed filter housing.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

I hope they have the Vararam available soon.
Have you heard anything, when they finally release it?

Originally Posted by JasonGofast

What have you done to your fuel system to allow for so much power? I'm getting a 2650 with a 103 TB, headers, and big gulp. Worried about fuel but I don't want to add anything past a DSX aux pump until I spring for a port injection system like WeaponX.

I have the edelbrock 2650 I had to port it to match and surpass the flow characteristics of the maggi but, its still cheaper even with porting from Kong and its setup to run port injection like the zr1 corvette for 1/3 of the cost of doing the builds like katech or like the car from JRE wtih the XDI system. the thread is called "JRE zl1 427 magnunson TVS 2650 XDI 1100 RWHP" the XDI for now is your best fuel system for a maggie till the spacers that go between the blower and heads become readily available to run port as well.. I don't see how they will work as well since they spray against the intake wall vs down at the valve but oh well.

The XDI I admit is a lot easier for a shop to tune and less complicated for the tuner. I'm sure it helps getting the customers car in and out and back on the road quicker is probably why most shops go with it.. fast and easy equals more builds and more money but not for the customer lol.. thankfully my tuner knows how to tune DI mixed w Port very easily together. It runs just as if it was all DI or factory setup. I have a few extra fuel lines on the rails but you can't really see the port injectors or wiring to them.

my experience so far..

Taking the blower on and off takes little time I like how the edelbrock unit stays complete no removing the lid, pulling the intercoolers out to get to mounting bolts also I thought I had broken a valve spring 3 weeks ago it was simple to pop off the coils wires and valve cover bolts and look. On the maggie your pulling the blower and messing with filling and refilling the IC system just a lot more tear down.


The port injection fuel injectors, a return style low side (something you need with XDI as well), and stand alone wideband controller from haltec, holley, and 1 other 1 controller I cant remember the name is how you can run straight E no meth to 1200 rwhp plus.. the DI takes you to about 550 on a LT1 DI fuel system then the port comes in gradually and takes you to what ever your end goal is or you can use your LT4 DI system to about 700 then have the port do the rest. That's another way to save you can sell your LT4 fuel system to a LT1 owner for cash and his lt1 stuff.. Port doesn't care if you have LT1 or LT4 DI parts.. by selling and getting his parts you can lesson the build cost by $1000 bucks.

The corvette's port assist is adding 100 or so HP. now that the ECU can be tuned they are doing a low side, pulley swap, and bigger injectors and are into the 1000s easy just like we do with bolts ons getting 100 hp on our zl1s lol of course there ECU hack is 2500 plus I think still.

and that's how you build a 1400hp fuel systems non dependent on meth for fueling for 6 or 7k cheaper than the XDI

[Camaro1973]

Some if you asked for some pics of my setup in pm’s so rather then responding to several people I’m Going to post here.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Can I post my pics to lol