[The1DoubleN]

Doing it in the tuning is a good point, but I don't plan on tuning the car until I slap a TVS blower on there, and that's going to be a few years off.

As long as I can get assurance that the WORST thing that happens when this thing malfunctions is reduced power, I can deal with that. It's the unintended acceleration side of the coin that scares me.....

[The1DoubleN]

I e-mailed this thread to their "contact us" portal on the Vitesse website.....we'll see if they write anything.....

[TSloper]

Originally Posted by The1DoubleN

I would really love to hear some reassuring words from Vitesse on this thread about how safe these throttle controllers are, and what happens to the car when one stops working or loses power.....

Unless Vitesse is willing to release the schematics and source code for review their word means nothing. Nothing is known about their design other than 99% of the time it appears to work. The device doesn't change the response of the engine mechanically so I'm not even sure why it is marketed to improve throttle response. It is merely going to remap the pedal position from actual to some new value and make the ECM think you have pushed the pedal further than you actually have. This will cause the throttle blade to open more than it would have otherwise.

I'm not trying to be negative towards Vitesse. I'm just trying to point out that there are very real unintended consequences running a device like this. Most people would not be in a position to take on the liability if something went horribly wrong out on the streets and it was found this device was the root cause.

[The1DoubleN]

Originally Posted by TSloper

Unless Vitesse is willing to release the schematics and source code for review their word means nothing. Nothing is known about their design other than 99% of the time it appears to work. The device doesn't change the response of the engine mechanically so I'm not even sure why it is marketed to improve throttle response. It is merely going to remap the pedal position from actual to some new value and make the ECM think you have pushed the pedal further than you actually have. This will cause the throttle blade to open more than it would have otherwise.

I'm not trying to be negative towards Vitesse. I'm just trying to point out that there are very real unintended consequences running a device like this. Most people would not be in a position to take on the liability if something went horribly wrong out on the streets and it was found this device was the root cause.

It does more than this actually, it noticeably shortens the lag between hitting the throttle pedal itself, and the car accelerating forward. It does do what you're saying, but that's definitely not it's sole function (and definitely not the reason I bought it, I bought it to eliminate the half second long lag Chevy built into even the Track setting on their throttle programming.

I'm not looking for Vitesse's sworn word, schematics, or source code. I simply want to know what happens when this thing malfunctions. What kind of safety features are built into it? Are there any?

[pinoyscorpion951]

Originally Posted by The1DoubleN

I would really love to hear some reassuring words from Vitesse on this thread about how safe these throttle controllers are, and what happens to the car when one stops working or loses power.....

This was directly from Ahmed in the original Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller thread back in 2014:

In case something goes wrong or if our Controller detects the slightest voltage difference between the gas pedal sensor and the throttle body's sensor, it will default back to SP0 (Stock mode).The Gas Pedal's built in sensors will tell the ECU to go into the "Reduced Engine Power". This is a feature built in all the "Drive by wire" systems.

No update so far guys. I was told that it is still being looked at by one of technicians. Hopefully I can get her back by the end of the day.

[The1DoubleN]

Originally Posted by pinoyscorpion951

This was directly from Ahmed in the original Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller thread back in 2014:

In case something goes wrong or if our Controller detects the slightest voltage difference between the gas pedal sensor and the throttle body's sensor, it will default back to SP0 (Stock mode).The Gas Pedal's built in sensors will tell the ECU to go into the "Reduced Engine Power". This is a feature built in all the "Drive by wire" systems.

No update so far guys. I was told that it is still being looked at by one of technicians. Hopefully I can get her back by the end of the day.

Thanks for this info! This is just what I was looking for, a failsafe system that detects anomalies and if so puts the car into limp mode!

So do you think this is probably what happened to your car? Starting to sound like it....I would send the unit back to Ahmed just for piece of mind, or so they can investigate whether they have a QC problem.

[pinoyscorpion951]

I'm almost certain that's what happened now. I did send Ahmed a PM. Vitesse is a forum sponsor and Ahmed's screen name is Horizon670. He's pretty good about responding to pm's. To answer your other questions regarding if the connections were all secure, yes they were. In fact I had the darnedest time trying to get that thing off.

[SSport16]

Originally Posted by pinoyscorpion951

This was directly from Ahmed in the original Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller thread back in 2014:

In case something goes wrong or if our Controller detects the slightest voltage difference between the gas pedal sensor and the throttle body's sensor, it will default back to SP0 (Stock mode).The Gas Pedal's built in sensors will tell the ECU to go into the "Reduced Engine Power". This is a feature built in all the "Drive by wire" systems.

No update so far guys. I was told that it is still being looked at by one of technicians. Hopefully I can get her back by the end of the day.

Sounding more and more that the controller is the root cause.

[horizon670]

Thank you for letting us know about this issue.

First, let me explain in more details about the Safety options we have:

All GM cars with the "Drive by Wire" system have a safety feature that will make the ECU default to the safety mode, in our case for the Gen5 and Gen6, it's what we call "Reduced Engine Power" mode. This can be triggered by hundreds of sensors that are supposed to communicate with each other and receive exact voltages to function properly. We've seen TPS ( Throttle position sensors ) going bad, APS ( Accelerator position sensors ) that needed replacement... I'm not saying this is your case.

The P2138 error is obviously the Controller sending a high voltage signal ( Above the 5% threshold limit accepted by the ECU ), anything slightly above and the ECU will signal that.

This can happen if you did not calibrate the controller properly, a loose harness or a loose single wire...

I also want to assure some of you that questioned this before, "What if the Controller breaks down or anything ? "
The Controller will also default back to SP0 ( Stock mode ) if anything is not right within.

If you ever get the Reduced Engine power while driving, the easiest way to fix it is to switch the mode back to SP0, park in a safe place, switch off the engine and back on.

The Check engine light may not go away until the ECU checks everything after 5 restarts.

Any other questions, don't hesitate to call us, we're here anytime of the day to assist you with your installs or issues.

[The1DoubleN]

Originally Posted by horizon670

Thank you for letting us know about this issue.

First, let me explain in more details about the Safety options we have:

All GM cars with the "Drive by Wire" system have a safety feature that will make the ECU default to the safety mode, in our case for the Gen5 and Gen6, it's what we call "Reduced Engine Power" mode. This can be triggered by hundreds of sensors that are supposed to communicate with each other and receive exact voltages to function properly. We've seen TPS ( Throttle position sensors ) going bad, APS ( Accelerator position sensors ) that needed replacement... I'm not saying this is your case.

The P2138 error is obviously the Controller sending a high voltage signal ( Above the 5% threshold limit accepted by the ECU ), anything slightly above and the ECU will signal that.

This can happen if you did not calibrate the controller properly, a loose harness or a loose single wire...

I also want to assure some of you that questioned this before, "What if the Controller breaks down or anything ? "
The Controller will also default back to SP0 ( Stock mode ) if anything is not right within.

If you ever get the Reduced Engine power while driving, the easiest way to fix it is to switch the mode back to SP0, park in a safe place, switch off the engine and back on.

The Check engine light may not go away until the ECU checks everything after 5 restarts.

Any other questions, don't hesitate to call us, we're here anytime of the day to assist you with your installs or issues.

Thank you Ahmed!!!!

[pinoyscorpion951]

Originally Posted by horizon670

Thank you for letting us know about this issue.

First, let me explain in more details about the Safety options we have:

All GM cars with the "Drive by Wire" system have a safety feature that will make the ECU default to the safety mode, in our case for the Gen5 and Gen6, it's what we call "Reduced Engine Power" mode. This can be triggered by hundreds of sensors that are supposed to communicate with each other and receive exact voltages to function properly. We've seen TPS ( Throttle position sensors ) going bad, APS ( Accelerator position sensors ) that needed replacement... I'm not saying this is your case.

The P2138 error is obviously the Controller sending a high voltage signal ( Above the 5% threshold limit accepted by the ECU ), anything slightly above and the ECU will signal that.

This can happen if you did not calibrate the controller properly, a loose harness or a loose single wire...

I also want to assure some of you that questioned this before, "What if the Controller breaks down or anything ? "
The Controller will also default back to SP0 ( Stock mode ) if anything is not right within.

If you ever get the Reduced Engine power while driving, the easiest way to fix it is to switch the mode back to SP0, park in a safe place, switch off the engine and back on.

The Check engine light may not go away until the ECU checks everything after 5 restarts.

Any other questions, don't hesitate to call us, we're here anytime of the day to assist you with your installs or issues.

So should I recalibrate the controller or send it back for a replacement? Everything was connected properly and securely and there were no wires that were damaged. I've had it for almost 2 months and it had worked flawlessly until yesterday.

[horizon670]

Try re-calibrating it first. If it ever happens again, we'll exchange it for you.

[pinoyscorpion951]

Originally Posted by horizon670

Try re-calibrating it first. If it ever happens again, we'll exchange it for you.

Thanks Ahmed. Appreciate it. Well I got the car back from the dealer. They replaced the entire accelerator assembly.

[08z51c6]

Originally Posted by pinoyscorpion951

Thanks Ahmed. Appreciate it. Well I got the car back from the dealer. They replaced the entire accelerator assembly.

Are you putting the controller back in?