[olblue75]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

The issue after I talked to the engineer at SPL is the is that the GM design doesnt allow for alot of room below the lock nut anyway. I DID use the NYLOCK that came with the KIT on the APEX 19's with no issues once I removed two of the small washers.

A custom 19 inch wheel regardless of brand is going to have the same distance to the inside barrel of the wheel as a GM OE wheel does so whether or not you are running a aftermarket 19" wheel is irrelevant.

SPL has not been making parts for our cars nearly as long as they have other manufacturers so that's always going to be a learning process.

To make the EXISTING Bumpsteer kit instantly compatible with 18 inch wheels , all they would have to do is make the threaded end of the bolt SHORTER and then supply a thinner nylock nut like what we used.

SPL PARTS are aircraft quality parts and they are simply the BEST suspension parts you can buy PERIOD.

Never said they weren’t good parts, all I’m saying it’s up to the end user to know what does or doesn’t fit his or her application. If SPL is running factory wheels I’m sure they’ll fit without issues but anything other than that it’s on you.

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by olblue75

Never said they weren’t good parts, all I’m saying it’s up to the end user to know what does or doesn’t fit his or her application. If SPL is running factory wheels I’m sure they’ll fit without issues but anything other than that it’s on you.

yea they have stock 1le wheels on their car not sure if they ever test fitted them with 18s or 19s oh well

[Tachitup]

Sorry to hear you had issues with a kit that was supposed to fit your car.

My question is: how much bump steer were you getting both before and after you installed the kit?

[Tachitup]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

ANYTHING that has for instance a HEIM joint in it like these tie rod ends WILL result in a NOISER suspension. Same thing goes when you replace rubber mounts with DELRIN or SOLID mounts. .

Replacing a tire rod end with a spherical bearing is not going to generate more noise. The tie rod end is already a steel bearing.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Tachitup

Sorry to hear you had issues with a kit that was supposed to fit your car.

My question is: how much bump steer were you getting both before and after you installed the kit?

I disagree with you regarding a HEIM joint NOT causing some additional noise potentially. ANYTHING that allows more movement inherently can cause more noise. EVERY car I have had that I used HEIM joints on was noiser compared to the stock setup.

Well on a flat course NONE. On a course with a couple of rapid elevation changes I could feel it the steering wheel on occasion. I defer to the experts on this at times and the shop that set the car up for road racing felt strongly that it was a good idea if for no other reason it made the tie rod endings much stronger.

I wasnt really all that bummed out that it didnt work on my car without modifications. OLBLUE75 is absolutely right when he mentions you have to be adaptable when you run any part on your specific setup which may or may not match what the part was designed for by the manufacturer.

[Tachitup]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

I disagree with you regarding a HEIM joint NOT causing some additional noise potentially. ANYTHING that allows more movement inherently can cause more noise. EVERY car I have had that I used HEIM joints on was noiser compared to the stock setup.

Well on a flat course NONE. On a course with a couple of rapid elevation changes I could feel it the steering wheel on occasion. I defer to the experts on this at times and the shop that set the car up for road racing felt strongly that it was a good idea if for no other reason it made the tie rod endings much stronger.

I wasnt really all that bummed out that it didnt work on my car without modifications. OLBLUE75 is absolutely right when he mentions you have to be adaptable when you run any part on your specific setup which may or may not match what the part was designed for by the manufacturer.

I was referring to the replacing a steel jointed tie-rod end with a heim joint. There is no change in NVH.

If you measured the bump steer and it didn't exhibit and toe change through the suspension arch both before and after installing the kit, then there was nothing to correct. Somebody is selling you snake oil.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Tachitup

I was referring to the replacing a steel jointed tie-rod end with a heim joint. There is no change in NVH.

If you measured the bump steer and it didn't exhibit and toe change through the suspension arch both before and after installing the kit, then there was nothing to correct. Somebody is selling you snake oil.

Well everyone is entitled to their opinion even if it wrong. LOL

[spl_engineer]

So the reason that the design does not work with 18" wheels is inherent in the design of the knuckle. The pickup point for the tie rod end is pretty far from the center of the knuckle. This means the tie rod is already pretty close to the wheel to begin with because it is so offset. To be able to bumpsteer the vehicle, it requires you to move the tie rod placement up or down, depending on the characteristics you are looking for. If we wanted to give people ANY amount of adjustment, I had to make the stud a certain length, which is what we supply. We specifically say it will not work with 18" wheels for this reason on the website. It is unfortunate, as I know many people do run 18" wheels on track, but there just really isn't much room between the tie rod mounting location and the wheel on 18" wheels.

Also to clarify, bumpsteer is not an inherently BAD thing. It can be tuned to be a very beneficial thing - a bit more toe out under compression on turn-in can be helpful, and require less static toe. Giving the ability to tune for these things can really shave those .1's off your lap times. You just have to take the time to properly run the car through it's travel and adjust for what you think the car needs.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by spl_engineer

So the reason that the design does not work with 18" wheels is inherent in the design of the knuckle. The pickup point for the tie rod end is pretty far from the center of the knuckle. This means the tie rod is already pretty close to the wheel to begin with because it is so offset. To be able to bumpsteer the vehicle, it requires you to move the tie rod placement up or down, depending on the characteristics you are looking for. If we wanted to give people ANY amount of adjustment, I had to make the stud a certain length, which is what we supply. We specifically say it will not work with 18" wheels for this reason on the website. It is unfortunate, as I know many people do run 18" wheels on track, but there just really isn't much room between the tie rod mounting location and the wheel on 18" wheels.

Also to clarify, bumpsteer is not an inherently BAD thing. It can be tuned to be a very beneficial thing - a bit more toe out under compression on turn-in can be helpful, and require less static toe. Giving the ability to tune for these things can really shave those .1's off your lap times. You just have to take the time to properly run the car through it's travel and adjust for what you think the car needs.

Thanks for the clarification. It always helps to the get the info straight from the horses mouth

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by spl_engineer

So the reason that the design does not work with 18" wheels is inherent in the design of the knuckle. The pickup point for the tie rod end is pretty far from the center of the knuckle. This means the tie rod is already pretty close to the wheel to begin with because it is so offset. To be able to bumpsteer the vehicle, it requires you to move the tie rod placement up or down, depending on the characteristics you are looking for. If we wanted to give people ANY amount of adjustment, I had to make the stud a certain length, which is what we supply. We specifically say it will not work with 18" wheels for this reason on the website. It is unfortunate, as I know many people do run 18" wheels on track, but there just really isn't much room between the tie rod mounting location and the wheel on 18" wheels.

Also to clarify, bumpsteer is not an inherently BAD thing. It can be tuned to be a very beneficial thing - a bit more toe out under compression on turn-in can be helpful, and require less static toe. Giving the ability to tune for these things can really shave those .1's off your lap times. You just have to take the time to properly run the car through it's travel and adjust for what you think the car needs.

How about using them with 19" I know the OP said you need to remove the thick washers. Do you have any input on this?

[spl_engineer]

I run 19" wheels (the ZL1 size and offset) and have my bumpsteer zeroed out, with a lowered vehicle with very aggressive castor and large geometry changes that were required to fit the ZL1 wheels on the SS body with appropriate track camber.

[GunMetalGrey]

Good to know, I just ordered these parts and I’m using 19 inch Apex wheels