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Old 01-10-2021, 10:53 AM   #1
swisstyphoon
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Question Fuel line, check valve question

I plan to replace the factory check valve with the one from Lingenfelter. If I cut the crimped, braided hose from the hardline, is is it possible to use a quick connect fitting on the hardline? Is there already a bulge on the hardline that accepts a quick connect female fitting?
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Old 04-18-2021, 04:47 PM   #2
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Did you find an answer on this? I have the same question.
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Old 04-18-2021, 05:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travislambert View Post
Did you find an answer on this? I have the same question.
Yes, there is a bulge on the hardline, but it is not safe with just a new hose clamp, and to short for a quick connect. I ended up cutting the hardline and making a new quick connect flare with a flaring tool.

Or you could also just use a AN hardline adapter like this one. (No flare tool needed) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT165086ERL
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Old 04-18-2021, 08:16 PM   #4
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Awesome! Thank you for the detailed response!
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Old 11-21-2021, 12:38 PM   #5
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Could anyone share part numbers for this conversion? Did it work for you guys?

Thanks.
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Old 11-21-2021, 02:14 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
Could anyone share part numbers for this conversion? Did it work for you guys?

Thanks.
Yes it works.
I only have the part number from my link in my post above.
& I used some of those AN quick connect adapters
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-quick-connect
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Old 11-22-2021, 07:43 AM   #7
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Thank you very much!!!
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Old 11-22-2021, 03:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swisstyphoon View Post
Yes, there is a bulge on the hardline, but it is not safe with just a new hose clamp, and to short for a quick connect. I ended up cutting the hardline and making a new quick connect flare with a flaring tool.

Or you could also just use a AN hardline adapter like this one. (No flare tool needed) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT165086ERL
Hey Swiss, is this the crimp tool you used? It sure looks the same.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72...s%2C431&sr=8-1
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Old 11-23-2021, 12:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trochoidal View Post
Hey Swiss, is this the crimp tool you used? It sure looks the same.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72...s%2C431&sr=8-1
Yes that is the one. I suggest to make some test crimps first on an old line, to get the feel for it. If I remember correctly you have to use the 3/8 quick connect die set, not the 3/8 GM, that is the old style.
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JRE tuned 791whp, 772ft-lbs SAE


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Old 11-23-2021, 09:06 AM   #10
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So the line and fittings are 3/8"? I thought someone said somewhere it was 5/16". I think that's part of my confusion. What size is on the car? Being a possible failure point (pointed out in another thread), I'm giving this option a little more though. I could be completely wrong on this one.

Thanks for any more information.
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Old 11-24-2021, 02:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radz28 View Post
So the line and fittings are 3/8"? I thought someone said somewhere it was 5/16". I think that's part of my confusion. What size is on the car? Being a possible failure point (pointed out in another thread), I'm giving this option a little more though. I could be completely wrong on this one.

Thanks for any more information.
I just read the thread you referenced, too. Is the check valve necessary? It sounded like the car actually ran (started) better without the check valve? I am having Ted's (JRE) 2650/cam package installed and am wondering if I should swap out the fuel line with the SS one?
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Old 11-24-2021, 02:11 PM   #12
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One thing I don't see mentioned in this thread is where whp wise this check valve is actually a concern/restriction... I see 3400-3700 psi (with 70-74 psi feeding it) WOT on my fuel rail pressure during pulls so I haven't found it yet.

I know there are many of us in the 700-900 whp range w/o touching this. Seems easy enough to change but to what value?
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