[Rams01]

Originally Posted by Pcormier66

in my experience, once you have pad deposits, it doesn't matter if they are hot or cold. End a track day with deposits and vibration, let the car sit and completely cool down, then drive off - the vibration will still exist. You have to get the deposit off the rotors. If you are using OEM, it will be very difficult to do that without some intervention. Either take off the rotors and clean them by hand, or put on a more aggressive pad and let them slowly scrape off the deposit. A track pad is very aggressive when cold and will clean the rotor quickly. And no scrubbing or removing the rotor.

This is my process
1. Start with clean rotors and use OEM pads for street use.
2. Day or so before a track event I put in track pads. A couple days worth of street driving will clean off all the OEM pad material
3. Bed track pads.
4. Tear it up at the track
5. Keep track pads on for a couple days after an event. When they are cold, they will self clean the rotor of any deposits
6. Swap back to OEM. Bed if you want to. I don't
7. Next track event - repeat.

Finally, after many a week spent searching through the vastness of google and forum posts with no replies to this very question... I have found this post which answers all of my noobish questions and "how to's" all in one place.
Thank you. .
"wait are these people saying they buy an entire set of pads merely for the purpose of ONLY cleaning off the rotors? wtf that cant be right since the pads they're talking about aren't exactly cheap" But when you put it the way you did, it is totally worth the cost for such an effective tool. This scrubbing, honing the rotors BS is for the birds.

[Lemik69]

Originally Posted by Pcormier66

in my experience, once you have pad deposits, it doesn't matter if they are hot or cold. End a track day with deposits and vibration, let the car sit and completely cool down, then drive off - the vibration will still exist. You have to get the deposit off the rotors. If you are using OEM, it will be very difficult to do that without some intervention. Either take off the rotors and clean them by hand, or put on a more aggressive pad and let them slowly scrape off the deposit. A track pad is very aggressive when cold and will clean the rotor quickly. And no scrubbing or removing the rotor.

This is my process
1. Start with clean rotors and use OEM pads for street use.
2. Day or so before a track event I put in track pads. A couple days worth of street driving will clean off all the OEM pad material
3. Bed track pads.
4. Tear it up at the track
5. Keep track pads on for a couple days after an event. When they are cold, they will self clean the rotor of any deposits
6. Swap back to OEM. Bed if you want to. I don't
7. Next track event - repeat.

+1. After weeks of frustrating brake pulsation finding this method worked great for me. It saved me from replacing my rotors and now have set of track day pads (Hawk DTC60) thank you Pcormier66 and forums!

[2004YZFR1]

Originally Posted by Lemik69

+1. After weeks of frustrating brake pulsation finding this method worked great for me. It saved me from replacing my rotors and now have set of track day pads (Hawk DTC60) thank you Pcormier66 and forums!

Did the Hawk DCT-60 cause any problems or pitting on your wheels from the brake dust? I keep reading conflicting reviews of these pads. My 1LE must have bad stock pad deposits and it’s giving me brake shudder thru the wheel. Which isn’t real confidence inspiring on the track. Thanks.

[ponyboy96]

I had a similar issue and noticed rusty spots on my front rolors. I just used some course grit sandpaper and it knocked it off. No issues since.