[Osbornsm]

I've seen a few posts regarding the engine upgrades available for the SS 1LE.


Typical mods include:

• Headers
• Cam
• Tune
• Intake / TB

I've seen about 100+hp gain to the wheels for the above mods.


How much does parts + install run a regular shmo like me?

[G2K]

- Headers go from 600-2000
(all depends on brands) I'd sudjest Kooks 2" headers

- Cam kits run about 1300
(you need a kit as you will need to delete DoD)

- Tune go from 800 locally to about 1100 all in remotely tuned
(other stuff needed when tuning remotely)

CAI/IM/TB - stock ported go for about 1000
if you go CAI/Ported MSD/95mm combo will run you about 2400

I'd suggest you go to Facebook and look up Pray Performance.. trust me you won't regret it. He has 7-8 of the top 10 fastest N/A here in this forum. (go check the drag racing forums)

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by G2K

- Headers go from 600-2000
(all depends on brands) I'd sudjest Kooks 2" headers

- Cam kits run about 1300
(you need a kit as you will need to delete DoD)

- Tune go from 800 locally to about 1100 all in remotely tuned
(other stuff needed when tuning remotely)

CAI/IM/TB - stock ported go for about 1000
if you go CAI/Ported MSD/95mm combo will run you about 2400

I'd suggest you go to Facebook and look up Pray Performance.. trust me you won't regret it. He has 7-8 of the top 10 fastest N/A here in this forum. (go check the drag racing forums)

GOOD stuff... thank you for taking the time to learn me a lil bit.





Do i need a Cam "kit" if i don't have DOD ? I drive manual.

[G2K]

Originally Posted by Osbornsm

GOOD stuff... thank you for taking the time to learn me a lil bit.





Do i need a Cam "kit" if i don't have DOD ? I drive manual.

Yup, M6 cars still need the DoD eliminated even tho its not used in our cars we have all the DoD stuff in our engine (lifters, holes in the block, etc etc)

[avalonandl]

My ballpark would be 7k.....

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by G2K

Yup, M6 cars still need the DoD eliminated even tho its not used in our cars we have all the DoD stuff in our engine (lifters, holes in the block, etc etc)

HOLD THE BUS! DOD isn't used in the M6 cars? Why not?

[GuywithL86]

Cam is mostly labor

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by 95 imp

HOLD THE BUS! DOD isn't used in the M6 cars? Why not?

Not sure. They apparently didn’t need it to meet emissions and mpg. The hardware is there unfortunately. I might throw Johnson lifters on the stock cam and just run use different length pushrods to offset the afm lifter height, if I lose a lifter

[oldman]

Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue

Not sure. They apparently didn’t need it to meet emissions and mpg. The hardware is there, unfortunately. I might throw Johnson lifters on the stock cam and just run use different length pushrods to offset the afm lifter height if I lose a lifter

AFAIK the ramp profiles are all messed up and you might have a hard time with standard lifters.... no matter the push rod length... ask me how I know?

I kind of wanted to try AFM cams, but I've heard of so many vendors running into lifter collapse because of spring tension. I would do something like a single beehive cam motion spring sumting like 350 lbs open. I will note Chevy magazine when they did their vette AFM cam used conical springs like 450 lbs open OMG...

As many of you know my TSP cam failed on LS7 lifters. I've been looking for a cam ever since. One vendor that I trust says it has nothing really to do with the lifter, the cam profile is too aggressive in this case probably on the decel ramp. Dunno. I'm on the fence. 3 years ago I posted on this very board I was tired of the LS1 valve train wars and IMO any lift over .600 will fail on the street. I tried a mild build (my car is supercharged) and it was either bad luck or sumting but I did have a lifter failure on a dual spring setup from TSP recommended for the cam (410 I think is th open pressure, doing this from memory).

I got the Johnsons now, just not sure if I design my own sub .600 lift, go with a mild cam motion (suppose to have a gentel ramp) .612 / .620 or go with Cunningham or Pray stage II. So is it a lifter, is it a profile or is it luck. Funny part about it, if it lasted say 500 miles more I was putting in my forged engine anyway! Timing.

I've been into cars and for ever and for every guy you hear about messing up on a part there are MANY more that don't say anthing. It is kind of like keeping you highscool picture on facebook after you put on 100 lbs.

So once again low miles vendor spec cam and kit, LS7 lifters failed.. might have been luck of the draw.

I have the good lifter now.. probably going with the gentle cam motion cam. BTR also says their cams are gentle. I'm sure the smaller cam is going to leave 30+ HP on the table. Maybe I adjust my target down between 850 to 900 engine HP but I won't open the engine up till 100K miles in dunno 15 years...

I want to run the least boost to make my HP goal and cam is a very important part of the equasion. That was my theory anyway the least boost = most dependable. After my lifter failure dunno. I'm really not intrested in something that can't go 100K miles. I don't mind changing valve springs, that I think is a given with above .600 lift cams, at least in my experience.

For NA there will be a progression in HP from an AFM cam to a mild (like hot cam) profile sub .600 lift to a say Pray stage III. At some point, I'd be worried about the rod bolts (say 6800 RPM up). You can change these right on the car. BTW How much dunno. You can clearly see the ported head gain really tapes after .500 So, to be honest, I think you need to ask yourself how comfortable are you on the stock rod / rod bolt, vs stock rod with ARP bolt (say 7200 RPM) and pick a cam that will give you the most under the curve.

If I had to stick my neck out right now, I'd do a hot cam with LS7 lifters and whatever spring GM says to put in OR a single beehive spring from cam motion have the rev limiter at 6800 RPM, sleep comfortably. Note GM says 6600 RPM rec.. gotta put that disclaimer in.

AFM cam build, cam still pulling at 6600 RPM

http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...y-lt1-cam-swap

https://www.facebook.com/prayperform...type=3&theater

[GuywithL86]

Originally Posted by 95 imp

HOLD THE BUS! DOD isn't used in the M6 cars? Why not?

Put the auto in manual shift mode on our trucks and it turns off the afm.

I’m guessing because afm needs full control of the trans to prevent damage of some sort

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by GuywithL86

Put the auto in manual shift mode on our trucks and it turns off the afm.

I’m guessing because afm needs full control of the trans to prevent damage of some sort

I did not know this... hmmm... that changes a lot. So, on the M6, I'm guessing no AFM valve in the exhaust either?

Is the DOD system plugged off from the factory-? No need for the delete kit if you did a cam?

[oldman]

yep heads are real easy, especially if you are going header. but you know how the slippery slop goes. when the heads off, it is easy to change the lifters, might as well do cam... mine actually started the other way, I was doing a AFM cam swap and by the end it was, ported heads, non-ARM cam, supercharger!!! OMG

Back to the OP, I think you need to sit down and ask your self how high are you going to take the stock rod, do you at least change rod bolts.

[BigShow1960]

What is DoD?

[oldman]

Originally Posted by BigShow1960

What is DoD?

Displacement on Demand, the lifters to 4 cylinders collapse turning the valves off, the piston is now an air spring. This uses AFM lifters. All LT1 have AFM lifters even the M6. There is a hack to turn on DoD for the M6 BTW.

So if you want a small lift cam and mild springs you maybe able to keep your AFM lifters... Never seen it actually done.

So DoD is the technology, the AFM lifter is how that technology "works".