[apexit53]

Originally Posted by 94boosted

Anyone with an SS1LE going to the Las Vegas Tour April 1-3 that wouldn't mind a tire warmer? It's a 24hr tow in each direction for me so I'd much rather fly and drive

hah, as im waiting for my new car to come i keep thinking if its worth finding a codrive till then for this and dixy :p

[Vtor_ZL1]

It's time for an alignment refresh. Last config show below was done at dealer after inner tie rod replacement back in November 2021

Front:

• Camber L -3.20 R -2.80
• Toe L -0.02 R -0.11
  
• Total Toe -0.13
  

Rear:

• Camber L -1.8 R -1.8
• Toe L 0.08 R -0.02
  
• Total Toe 0.07

What is current consensus for front and rear toe for autox. Tires are 305 square RE71R.



The shop I use does much better job of matching camber left to right, so that will end up at about -3.2 even left and right. All measurements in degrees.

Thanks.

[Cjw]

I would try more camber front, -3.7 if you can get it. I’m at -.1 toe out on front, and rear toe to zero, plan to toe in rear at -.1 before next weekend. I could not ask anymore from the front of the car on 315 rt660’s. Just need to get the rear in check

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

It's time for an alignment refresh. Last config show below was done at dealer after inner tie rod replacement back in November 2021

Front:

• Camber L -3.20 R -2.80
• Toe L -0.02 R -0.11
  
• Total Toe -0.13
  

Rear:

• Camber L -1.8 R -1.8
• Toe L 0.08 R -0.02
  
• Total Toe 0.07

What is current consensus for front and rear toe for autox. Tires are 305 square RE71R.



The shop I use does much better job of matching camber left to right, so that will end up at about -3.2 even left and right. All measurements in degrees.

Thanks.

I was running the same tires, then bought some used 315 RT660 with about the same wear as my RE71s. I put RT660s on the back as I needed to flip tires and the improvement was significant.

ZLE has an advantage as far as having an adjustable rear roll bar, but that square setup oversteered far too much on my SLE. I now have a Hotchkis ft bar and ZLE rear bar, I hope that allows for a square setup that's a little more balanced and I can apply more throttle exiting corners.

[IntegraR0064]

So it's that time to buy tires. Has anyone actually tried 295 yokos in BS/FS? I really love yokos, so I'm 95% sure I'm going for it, despite not having a 3 in my tire size. Probably just do 295 square.

Edit: i guess i would give up gearing doing 295/30/20 or 295/35/19 vs falken i could do 295/30/19. also seems like there's no stock. Back into overthinking I go...

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

It's time for an alignment refresh. Last config show below was done at dealer after inner tie rod replacement back in November 2021

Front:

• Camber L -3.20 R -2.80
• Toe L -0.02 R -0.11
  
• Total Toe -0.13
  

Rear:

• Camber L -1.8 R -1.8
• Toe L 0.08 R -0.02
  
• Total Toe 0.07

What is current consensus for front and rear toe for autox. Tires are 305 square RE71R.



The shop I use does much better job of matching camber left to right, so that will end up at about -3.2 even left and right. All measurements in degrees.

Thanks.

I would try reversing the toe. Do 0 front and .13” total toe in at the rear or more. More rear toe helps the oversteer out of corners in autocross.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by IntegraR0064

So it's that time to buy tires. Has anyone actually tried 295 yokos in BS/FS? I really love yokos, so I'm 95% sure I'm going for it, despite not having a 3 in my tire size. Probably just do 295 square.

Edit: i guess i would give up gearing doing 295/30/20 or 295/35/19 vs falken i could do 295/30/19. also seems like there's no stock. Back into overthinking I go...

Gearing is a little taller, yeah. But I think the raised CG and roll centers are the bigger penalty. Also, if you buy into the reports, the Yoks want more camber and less weight/heat than a stock 1LE can provide, so they may not last long and may get greasy on hot days, especially with two drivers. I can tell you that at Nationals last September the guys running Yoks in B Street were soaking them with towels from an ice-water bath between runs. In at least one other class they were literally changing tires between every run.

[Cjw]

Originally Posted by Msquared

Gearing is a little taller, yeah. But I think the raised CG and roll centers are the bigger penalty. Also, if you buy into the reports, the Yoks want more camber and less weight/heat than a stock 1LE can provide, so they may not last long and may get greasy on hot days, especially with two drivers. I can tell you that at Nationals last September the guys running Yoks in B Street were soaking them with towels from an ice-water bath between runs. In at least one other class they were literally changing tires between every run.

This is why I’m afraid to try the a052 being down here in Alabama and co driving with my father. I’ll stick with rt660’s and just keep hoping for a wider rear one day. We’ll be going to nationals in December but I’m not going to change tires or use a paint scrapper to peel extra rubber off the tires, that’s just too much for guys just having fun and competing against father/son

[DaveC113]

If you have a co-driver I'd go RT660, they handle heat better and imo they seem more forgiving of overdriving.

[IntegraR0064]

I'm taking it easy this year autox-wise and don't want to worry about codrivers, also I'm worried about the Mach 1 being an overdog in FS (on paper it seems to be), so I'm just going to do square 295/30 yokos on my stock 20" wheels. Partly that makes it so I don't have to invest in yet another set of wheels before being able to see if taking FS seriously makes sense for me.

For me this car is more of a time trials car anyway (for that I'm using 305 supercar3 on 19x11 square).

But anyway I can get some data on how the yokohamas work. I like being a guinea pig. I am hoping the 295 square doesn't make the car too loose though, I don't want to change sway bars because the balance is great for TT. I tried autocrossing on my TT setup and it was pretty loose for autox purposes, but obviously stock wheels the fronts will be more pinched. So we'll see.

If balance is off maybe I'll be super weird and get some 19's for the front and do a mixed Falken/Yoko setup, since there aren't really any viable narrower yoko options.

[DaveC113]

Mach 1 comes with camber plates, so it'll be able to achieve a more ideal alignment vs anything else in FS. I agree it'll be hard to beat.

The square setup will certainly make the car too loose, and more susceptible to snap oversteer for autox.

Investing in Yoks w/o camber plates on a heavy car is a mistake imo. They wear very quickly and you'd end up spending less over time on something like a 19" 305/315 RT 660 setup which could still be FS legal. And if you don't want them you can sell them fairly easily. Nobody will want a 20" square setup for anything ime. I've also seen some people be faster on 660s, a friend with a C6 Z06 made some nice improvements going from Yoks to Falkens because the 660s are more forgiving. He said the Yoks might be faster in the hands of a great driver, but he ended up a good bit faster on Falkens. I think the Falkens suit our cars better overall. MikeL on here did get 2nd place BS nats running 305/315 660s.

I don't think you'll be a guinea pig going with square Yoks, you'll just be repeating the same mistake many people have already made, IMO of course...

[clyde]

Aren't the 19" and 20" 295 Yoks both on back order?

I hope to be able to try a set before I have to commit to something for Nationals.

[IntegraR0064]

Originally Posted by clyde

Aren't the 19" and 20" 295 Yoks both on back order?

I hope to be able to try a set before I have to commit to something for Nationals.

Yeah, but there's a guy in Italy on ebay lol, he has both. They're expensive but not insanely so. So I got the last tire TR had, and then bought 3 from Italy for about $500 each. He has both the 19's and 20's, 19's are $485 today. Compared to TR is like $430 something for 20's and $373 for 19's so more of a premium on the 19's. And remember the 19's are 35 profile so actually slightly bigger overall diameter than the 20's.

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Mach 1 comes with camber plates, so it'll be able to achieve a more ideal alignment vs anything else in FS. I agree it'll be hard to beat.

The square setup will certainly make the car too loose, and more susceptible to snap oversteer for autox.

Investing in Yoks w/o camber plates on a heavy car is a mistake imo. They wear very quickly and you'd end up spending less over time on something like a 19" 305/315 RT 660 setup which could still be FS legal. And if you don't want them you can sell them fairly easily. Nobody will want a 20" square setup for anything ime. I've also seen some people be faster on 660s, a friend with a C6 Z06 made some nice improvements going from Yoks to Falkens because the 660s are more forgiving. He said the Yoks might be faster in the hands of a great driver, but he ended up a good bit faster on Falkens. I think the Falkens suit our cars better overall. MikeL on here did get 2nd place BS nats running 305/315 660s.

I don't think you'll be a guinea pig going with square Yoks, you'll just be repeating the same mistake many people have already made, IMO of course...

The other problem with the Mach 1 is if you do the thrust charts it has a lot more thrust in 2nd gear.

but we're lighter weight (feels weird to say that lol) by I think 150-200lb and most of the time that extra power won't be usable. Dimensions are also similar but Mach 1 is slightly wider in rear which hurts it. So as Jim Carrey would say..."you're telling me there's a chance?"

You say I'll be repeating mistakes of those in the past but is that true? I tried looking and it didn't seem like anyone fast had tried the Yokos. Maybe I missed it. Has anyone actually done it? I don't care about resale since I'm just using my stock wheels.

I've also always preferred a little looser car than most so might be OK if it's a little loose.

I do think especially with lower wheel height and gearing the Falken is the better choice, but you need a codriver and you need another set of wheels. My theory is they're not that much better and yokos will make single driving viable and lets me dip my toes into FS without buying wheels.

Anyway it'll be a fun experiment.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by IntegraR0064

The other problem with the Mach 1 is if you do the thrust charts it has a lot more thrust in 2nd gear.

That's true, but it also gives up about 7mph in 2nd-gear top speed (72mph vs 79mph if my numbers are accurate). Whether that matters or not is obviously dependent on the course design. It's really just a matter of gearing vs the powerband. Most or all of that is probably "soaked up" by the extra 100lbs of curb weight.

Overall, I expect the cars are very, very close. I didn't see an obvious advantage for the GT350s over the SS 1LE in BS, and I would expect the Mach 1 to be the same: neither better nor worse.