[Need4Camaro]

11k miles here and no catch can - no noticeable decrease in power.

[ht600]

I wonder if anyone has tried using a endoscope down the intake manifold to look at the intake valves?

I have one and I'm thinking of trying to take a look at the valves.

[Chris C 1SS 1LE]

BG 44K every 3K or so. Put it my GDI daily driver. Huge difference

[Deputy Dog]

Originally Posted by ht600

I wonder if anyone has tried using a endoscope down the intake manifold to look at the intake valves?

I have one and I'm thinking of trying to take a look at the valves.

Please do a video.

[70chevelleSS]

Originally Posted by Deputy Dog

Please do a video.

X2


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Elite Engineering]

The most accurate way to examine your valves is to remove the intake manifold. Takes 15 minutes max and is very easy. No gaskets to replace as all are reusable. Look directly into them to see and take pictures and share the miles on your car and the coking.


Any in tank additive cannot help this in any way as no fuel touches the back sides of the intake valves. And only an actual dyno done before and after a manual cleaning can document accurately the power lost and regained after a manual cleaning.


The example given is a 2017 Corvette with the same engine. 85-95% of all coking comes form the "foul/dirty" side ingestion. The cleanside which GM now includes does address the minor path of ingestion quite well. That's why we do NOT specify the need for our cleanside unit with these applications.


Another issue not mentioned often is the wear to the valve guides. As these hard abrasive deposits form on the stem, they are drawn up into the guide with every cycle causing premature wear there as well.


We work very close on all GDI engines as far as research, and the LT1 V8 (and that includes the 5.3 in the trucks). What GM did do in addition to the plastic factory CSS, they did the most effective valve cover design to date by adding coalescing chambers (towers) as well as sealing around the oil fill channel and more:








But, there is little that can be done on the foul/dirty side where 85% plus of all the ingestion occurs. On the LGX V6, GM deleted the "Positive" function of the PCV system (the LT V8 still retains it) in an attempt to slow the rate of coking. The problem is this now leaves most all of the damage and wear causing combustion by-products in the crankcase greatly accelerating wear.


Now, back to the V8. All the efforts are on the fresh/cleanside, and as it is only a small portion of the cause, there has not been much of an improvement. The factory will never add an effective solution to the foul side as it will require the end user to empty it every oil change or sooner, and 99% plus of consumers would not accept this as they don't even open the hood now days. And if they go further with internal separation, this will also substantially increase wear as the water, acids, fuel, and abrasive soot/carbon/ash will also be retained.


We would love to see a 70k or above mileage LT engine to examine, but to date we have not been able to get any in to the R&D facility.


And keep in mind, until GDI, none of this was an issue after port fuel injection was adopted, and the automakers were forced to adopt this, it was NOT by choice.

[Chef-j]

I think its also matter how you drive your car daily, no? Like Long or short commute?

[KingLT1]

A member posted internal pics of a L86 truck(same as the LT1 just different intake manifold) engine at 120k miles and the valves looked decent.

[cellsafemode]

i'd put some salt grains on anything someone says has shown to greatly increase wear on an engine that has only existed for the last 2-3 years (at least with the lgx) with little more than anecdotal evidence in engines not of the kind they're actually referring to.

The picture will clear up in a couple years when the avg age of these engines is around 5 years and there's a good sample size in the "high mileage" range and we dont have just extreme examples to base facts on.

[jrob56]

I was really worried about this at the start of having my 2014 Silverado and had an Elite can on it. Im at 70k miles on my 5.3 and no issues. It had a can on it from 40k miles to 68k or so. I had to take it off for a dealer trip for radiator and havent put it back on. Hate trying to remember to empty it, and with just having a kid I know Im going to forget haha.

Another reason is my Father-in law, has a 2016 Yukon same 5.3 and runs same as mine at 100k miles and no issues. Starts right up, never noticed any hesitation or misfires. Doesnt seem to be down on power at all. Never had a catch can on it.

My wife's 2013 Equinox 4 banger, cant run a can on it due to dirty side not being external. Same story 96k miles and no issues. Runs better with the new plugs I just put in but thing always starts right up and no issues. It is slower than molasses, but been that way since day one.

Think its overblown, cant hurt anything really to run a can, but I take dynos like Elite posted with a grain of salt. Never seen an independent dyno or test to show its needed. Always comes from a source with a vested interest in selling cans.

[torqueaddict]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

i'd put some salt grains on anything someone says has shown to greatly increase wear on an engine that has only existed for the last 2-3 years (at least with the lgx) with little more than anecdotal evidence in engines not of the kind they're actually referring to.

The picture will clear up in a couple years when the avg age of these engines is around 5 years and there's a good sample size in the "high mileage" range and we dont have just extreme examples to base facts on.

Have to agree. There's simply not enough of these engines with high enough mileage to get a clear picture.

[SecondZ28]

Originally Posted by torqueaddict

My Mazdapeed 3 DI engine has over 160k miles. Still running strong. I'm sure there is some build up but can't tell. Butt dyno says the power is still there. Car idles the same as always.

Oh it's there, Those engines were notoriously bad for buildup. I had the top end apart on my Mazdaspeed6 around 60-70k to clean the valves, it was horrid.

[bpang1234]

Originally Posted by Glen e

the problem is real but i think forum paranoia reigns supreme because we are enthusists....for a normal DD you'll have no problem in 100k miles.....

Yeah and the loss of HP is gradual so most of you that think there is no change is because you are just used to it.

[torqueaddict]

Originally Posted by SecondZ28

Oh it's there, Those engines were notoriously bad for buildup. I had the top end apart on my Mazdaspeed6 around 60-70k to clean the valves, it was horrid.

If ain't broke, I don't fix it. I can jump in my ms3 right now and happily drive 150+ miles to Orlando without thinking twice. Except for a defective timing chain tensioner, and poorly designed engine mounts that needed to be swapped, I never had to touch the engine, clutch, tranny or the turbo.

The doom and gloom predictions in the Mazdaspeed forums at the time (around '07) were comical. Supposedly, the engine, clutch and turbo weren't going to last. The coke build-up in the engine was going to be so bad, early failure was eminent. I remember guys running seafoam through their brand new engines out of fear.

The turbo was going to overheat and suffer bearing failure, the clutch was poorly designed and would wear out easily. The tranny's 3rd gear was defective and wouldn't last past the warranty...blah, blah, blah.

All I did was stick to the basics - kept on top of the recommended maintenance routines and learned to drive a stick shift the proper way, not like in the Fast and Furious.