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Old 02-05-2021, 06:48 PM   #15
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I used this thread as a reference when installing my JMS Booster and it was spot on.
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Old 02-06-2021, 06:36 AM   #16
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Unfortunately I looked up the parts from mouser and only 1 is in stock. Does it call for a splice to that wire, or is it rerouted through the jms? Will be installing soon and find this thread very helpful. Thanks
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Old 02-06-2021, 08:05 AM   #17
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Yeah the one half of the clip is on backorder. I couldn’t find it anywhere else either. So I did a splice, solder and heat shrink instead. Worked just fine.
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:28 AM   #18
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I followed the 12v wire going to the fscm connector back to the fuse block in the trunk. Is it not possible to intercept the wire coming out of the fuse block rather than having to run a wire out of the vehicle to the connector? Just wondering if this will work, would seem to make install much cleaner and easier for me
Thanks for any input
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Old 02-14-2021, 09:56 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evansa22 View Post
I followed the 12v wire going to the fscm connector back to the fuse block in the trunk. Is it not possible to intercept the wire coming out of the fuse block rather than having to run a wire out of the vehicle to the connector? Just wondering if this will work, would seem to make install much cleaner and easier for me
Thanks for any input
Yes. Here’s a video of an install on an SS and the guy taps into the wire at the fuse block instead of the connector under the car.

https://youtu.be/XOYilNyh3iQ
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Old 02-14-2021, 11:03 AM   #20
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Sorry if I missed that somewhere, appreciate it very much!

So looks like the zl1 is different than the ss. The chassis control module isn't located in the same spot but think it sits next the the fuse block on the right side of the trunk. Still trying to figure it out. Plenty of writeups just trying to find the right one

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Old 02-15-2021, 07:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evansa22 View Post
I followed the 12v wire going to the fscm connector back to the fuse block in the trunk. Is it not possible to intercept the wire coming out of the fuse block rather than having to run a wire out of the vehicle to the connector? Just wondering if this will work, would seem to make install much cleaner and easier for me
Thanks for any input
Yes is it possible but not recommended, as the wire size is too small to carry the additional current to the control module

We recommend connection within 2 inches of control module.

Ted.
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Old 02-15-2021, 07:14 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evansa22 View Post
Sorry if I missed that somewhere, appreciate it very much!

So looks like the zl1 is different than the ss. The chassis control module isn't located in the same spot but think it sits next the the fuse block on the right side of the trunk. Still trying to figure it out. Plenty of writeups just trying to find the right one
ZL-1 and 1LE are above the axle under the car.

Ted.
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Old 02-16-2021, 09:40 AM   #23
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Thanks Ted, I was hoping to just run it off the fuse block but it makes sense that the factory wire is too small to run the current.

How about using a sealed one wire connector to splice the wires at the control module? Just make sure the connector is rated for 30a? Thanks

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Old 02-16-2021, 11:51 AM   #24
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Thanks Ted, I was hoping to just run it off the fuse block but it makes sense that the factory wire is too small to run the current.

How about using a sealed one wire connector to splice the wires at the control module? Just make sure the connector is rated for 30a? Thanks
How about follow my instructions and you wont' get in trouble.

Sound Familiar, Thanks Dad.
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Old 02-16-2021, 12:52 PM   #25
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How about follow my instructions and you wont' get in trouble.

Sound Familiar, Thanks Dad.
Yes sir does sound familiar. Just trying to reinvent the wheel here haha.

I'll follow what you've said and splice it 2" from the connector under the car. Can't find the right pin to run the jms into the connector, so instead of butt connectors was trying to get away with a weatherproof oem style one wire connector to splice the wires.

Ps. If you have specific instructions I'd love them, just using this write up as my guide
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Old 02-16-2021, 01:24 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Evansa22 View Post
Yes sir does sound familiar. Just trying to reinvent the wheel here haha.

I'll follow what you've said and splice it 2" from the connector under the car. Can't find the right pin to run the jms into the connector, so instead of butt connectors was trying to get away with a weatherproof oem style one wire connector to splice the wires.

Ps. If you have specific instructions I'd love them, just using this write up as my guide

Evansa22,

I may have some extra pins that you indicated are backordered. I am away from my house for a couple of days, but I can check when I return on Wednesday night if you want to wait.

If I have them, I’ll send them to you, no charge.
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Old 02-16-2021, 07:00 PM   #27
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Evansa22,

I may have some extra pins that you indicated are backordered. I am away from my house for a couple of days, but I can check when I return on Wednesday night if you want to wait.

If I have them, I’ll send them to you, no charge.
That would be awesome! I'm still waiting on other parts as well as new crimpers so I'm in no hurry. If you have them I'd really appreciate it, if you don't thanks for the offer anyways
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Old 02-17-2021, 07:18 AM   #28
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Quote:
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Evansa22,

I may have some extra pins that you indicated are backordered. I am away from my house for a couple of days, but I can check when I return on Wednesday night if you want to wait.

If I have them, I’ll send them to you, no charge.
since you are wiring inside the car normal butt connectors are all that is needed.

If you want to get fancy you can use Shrink Butt Connectors

Or install blade connectors so you can bypass it quickly if ever needed.

We simply want to intercept system voltage feed, run it through the JMS then on to the FSCM.

Ted.
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