[Zvelts]

My SS 1LE is still on GM factory alignement specs,
All my tire are wearing a bit much on the outside.
I got 11000kms (7000 miles) on the goodyear and they look pretty bad already.

I Will take a appointements for an alignement.
Does the Track alignement is too much for spirited street driving ?
Is there something between factory and Track alignement ?

Thanks

[Bluebarchetta]

I switched my car to the “track” alignment last summer before a trip to Mid Ohio. Never switched it back, and it’s perfectly fine for the street. The track alignment is really not all that aggressive, compared to my race cars.

[Provoste]

Originally Posted by Bluebarchetta

I switched my car to the “track” alignment last summer before a trip to Mid Ohio. Never switched it back, and it’s perfectly fine for the street. The track alignment is really not all that aggressive, compared to my race cars.

This. GM recommended track alignment will not trash your tires. It’s very mild.

[TRZ06]

Even with the track alignment , and only street driving I am wearing the outer a little faster the the inner in the rear.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by Zvelts

My SS 1LE is still on GM factory alignement specs,
All my tire are wearing a bit much on the outside.
I got 11000kms (7000 miles) on the goodyear and they look pretty bad already.

I Will take a appointements for an alignement.
Does the Track alignement is too much for spirited street driving ?
Is there something between factory and Track alignement ?

Thanks

That's the great thing about alignments, you can put the settings where ever you want within the mechanical range of the parts.

Set it to track, if you don't like your tire wear, adjust accordingly.

Mine was way out from the factory, still not where I want it but at least I've got all four wheels pointing in the same direction.

[Bad Anvil Garage]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Even with the track alignment , and only street driving I am wearing the outer a little faster the the inner in the rear.

The SC3 are actually a little thicker at the outsides for this reason.

[NYblack1le]

Been running the track alignment since last summer. Have no problems with premature wear on the tires and the car no longer understeers.

[mjk3888]

Originally Posted by Zvelts

My SS 1LE is still on GM factory alignement specs,
All my tire are wearing a bit much on the outside.
I got 11000kms (7000 miles) on the goodyear and they look pretty bad already.

I Will take a appointements for an alignement.
Does the Track alignement is too much for spirited street driving ?
Is there something between factory and Track alignement ?

Thanks

No the additional camber is fine for the street. You really only have problems with wear if the toe is out. I have nearly 20K miles and 5 track days on my track alignment now. Wear is much better on the outter shoulder but you do have to stay on top of the toe. I got a lifetime alignment from Firestone and have the front adjusted OFTEN to get it back to 0 toe.

Remember the rear toe and camber bolts are technically 1 time use so if you make adjustments to the rear you should get new bolts.

The front on the other hand is reusable bolts so it may retain the original hardware and be adjusted as often as you wish.

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by Bad Anvil Garage

The SC3 are actually a little thicker at the outsides for this reason.

Actually you have that backwards.

The inner tires have more tread depth to account for the aggressive negative camber settings. Most street cars don't run nearly the amount of neg. camber as we do in the SS 1LE and ZL1.

[Boost Creep]

The outside of the tires have tons of rubber, just no tread grooves.
At the edge of the tire there are witness holes to measure the remaining rubber. My rear tires look bald on the outside but still have a hair over 4/32".

[JK001]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

Actually you have that backwards.

The inner tires have more tread depth to account for the aggressive negative camber settings. Most street cars don't run nearly the amount of neg. camber as we do in the SS 1LE and ZL1.

Yep, you are correct TRZ06.

I'm running -2.4 F, -1.5 R with as close as 0 toe the tech can get it. Tires are holding up great, car feels fantastic

[Zvelts]

Thanks for the reply.
My 1LE was at the performance shop this morning for alignement. They told me than i need camber plates for the front ??? They did the track alignement in the black but in front the best they can do is -1.5 for camber ??? What is the problem ? What they should do ?
I dont need camber plates for a -2.0 camber ?

[JK001]

Originally Posted by Zvelts

Thanks for the reply.
My 1LE was at the performance shop this morning for alignement. They told me than i need camber plates for the front ??? They did the track alignement in the black but in front the best they can do is -1.5 for camber ??? What is the problem ? What they should do ?
I dont need camber plates for a -2.0 camber ?

They absolutely do not need camber plates! They need to loosen the two strut nuts, then the knuckle just "flops" into negative camber given there is some weight on the front wheel. Some members report less freely moving knuckle, thus using the camber adjustment bolts. My tech was able to get -2.7, I settled for a more mild -2.4.

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by JK001

They absolutely do not need camber plates! They need to loosen the two strut nuts, then the knuckle just "flops" into negative camber given there is some weight on the front wheel. Some members report less freely moving knuckle, thus using the camber adjustment bolts. My tech was able to get -2.7, I settled for a more mild -2.4.

The front strut bolts are splined. They have to be driven out partially to disengage them from the knuckle, in order to allow the joint to move.

Nigel