[Oastjc]

How someone please explain how to make the phone cord with t-tap?

[TJay74]

Just reading this, but has anyone tested this out with a passenger in the seat. on previous GM vehicles when the BCM turns that airbag light off due to a passenger in the seat that would imply that the 12v+ power is being cut, I think that would mean the device would turn off as well.

[Allez]

Originally Posted by TJay74

Just reading this, but has anyone tested this out with a passenger in the seat. on previous GM vehicles when the BCM turns that airbag light off due to a passenger in the seat that would imply that the 12v+ power is being cut, I think that would mean the device would turn off as well.

It works fine - with a passenger in the seat it does not cut off (I'm using mine wired with a dashcam).

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by Allez

It works fine - with a passenger in the seat it does not cut off (I'm using mine wired with a dashcam).

I can vouch for that too. You are tapping into a constant 12v wire. There's another signal wire used for the light on/off.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by Oastjc

How someone please explain how to make the phone cord with t-tap?

You need to buy a hardwire kit for your radar detector if you don't know how to convert one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Oastjc]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

You need to buy a hardwire kit for your radar detector if you don't know how to convert one.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

Is a 12" kit good enough or would I need 15"??

Thanks in advance,

[diirk]

Thanks for the guide. I used it this morning to install the Gen5DIY radar cable that uses factory connectors, no splicing needed.

I pried the console off and then only disconnected the two closest light connectors to allow the console to drop down more.
To remove these, there's a small tab on the side of the connector. press that in and you can wiggle the connector loose.

Then I removed the Airbag light by using a very small flat head screwdriver under the red lock clip. move it back a few mm and then the release tab works and you can remove the connector.

I plugged in the Gen5DIY harness to each end of the connector and routed the power wire through the headliner. reconnected the lights and put it all together.

Took about 5 minutes.

[unixadm]

FOR THOSE WITH A CONVERTIBLE:


The top console is totally different since there is no fabric headliner and the map lights, convertible button, homelink, and rear view mirror is built into the full plastic piece that goes completely across the windshield, holding the sun visors and ending at the two A Pillars.

I'm sure I could have figured out how to take all of that off, but decided that since I have a Valentine One with Concealed Display that I was mounting by the drivers knee pad, I would tap the power under the center console at the Cigarette Lighter power point and have both the radar detector and concealed display powered from there (they have to be powered together with a special adapter).

I mounted the Valentine One behind the mirror on the passenger side (where the "rear radar window" cleared the mirror and looked out the back), I ran the 10 foot phone cord straight up into the plastic piece surrounding the windshield/holding the top console and ran underneath to the passenger A Pillar. You can pull over the A pillar cover pretty easily, route it with the other wires and drop down the floor on passenger side. I ran behind the glove box (that was a pain to take off..instructions to pop off the glove box is in a cabin air filter thread on this site...basically brute force and/or pry bar with rag around it to get pins to clear the frame).

I loosened the center console with the 6 screws (one on each side in the rear under plastic caps, two on each side under the knee pads) and popped up the rear lip from under the center of the rear seat (plastic pry tool was helpful) and was able to lift several feet without disconnecting anything. Once underneath, I tapped into the cigarette lighter power port (red to purple wire, black to black wire) with the Valentine one Direct power adapter. The radar detector plugs into main RG11 power port of the adapter and the concealed display plugs into the to ACC RG11 port. I mounted the adapter under the console with other wiring, wire tied everything and closed it all up. Radar Detector powers up when I start and powers off when I shut off the car. It has it's own fuse under the console (which I hope I wouldn't ever have to get to but it isn't that hard if I did, and of course is additionally protected by the cigarette lighter power point fuse.

I should have taken some pics with everything open, but I totally blanked out in doing that. I may open up again in the near future for some other stuff and will take some pics inside and post them. I will go out and take some pic of the radar detector and concealed display in a short while and post them here

[unixadm]

Here are the after pics: (Again, I will take some pics inside the center/shifter console where I ran the wiring, next time I open it up)



Here is the power wire where I ran it to the top. This goes across and down the passenger "A Pillar" to the center shifter console






Where I mounted the Radar Detector:








CONCEALED DISPLAY with directional arrows of where the radar is coming from (the main display is dark when this is connected so no lights blinking on the windshield...important for convertibles)








What I REALLY like about this approach is that if a police officer walks up to my driver's side, this is their view.....there is no obvious radar detector. They can't see the main unit, which is dark and behind the mirror, and they can't see the concealed display down by the knee pad.

I know they are legal most places I drive, but some police officers see one and may not cut a break because they figure someone with one has gotten away with speeding many other times. (oh, and please ignore the paper towels...lol...realized I wiped the windshield and still had them in the passenger seat!)

[Neverenuff]

Nice. I've always owned Escort/Passport radar detectors but I decided to try the "improved" Valentine 1. I'm going to hard wire it tonight. That coiled cord stretched across my dash to the center console has to go. Terrible location for a power outlet. I get spoiled in my truck which has a total of 4 plus 3 USB and a 110 power outlet.

[diirk]

Originally Posted by Neverenuff

Nice. I've always owned Escort/Passport radar detectors but I decided to try the "improved" Valentine 1. I'm going to hard wire it tonight. That coiled cord stretched across my dash to the center console has to go. Terrible location for a power outlet. I get spoiled in my truck which has a total of 4 plus 3 USB and a 110 power outlet.

The Gen5DIY mirror tap is the way to go for hardwiring.

[cybercoaster]

I have an odd issue going on. Long story short, I had to have my head liner replaced. I have my dashcam hooked up to the purple/white and black wires with no issues at all. After the headliner was replaced, dashcam was not working. Ended up they broke one of the wires I had soldered to these connections. Feels like they got the wires caught up in the bolt for the review mirror or something, cant pull it and they are tight. I ended up cutting the wires to run new ones. Before soldering and connecting everything, I tested for voltage. There is 0v at the purple/white and black wire. I even removed the blue retaining plug and tested right at the connector. Nothing. I am thinking maybe a fuse is blown but not sure what fuse it would be. All the lights seem to be working for the passenger seat belt/airbag. Unless I am not recalling one that is supposed to be lit up. I even removed the purple/white wire from the connector completely and all the lights seem to be working. I had my wires soldered on by gently stripping some of the wire so I did not cut them. And yes, I had the car started when testing for voltage.

1. What is this purple/white wire actually for if all the lights are working?
2. What fuse would it be for this missing 12v?
3. The small LED always on ambient light on the overhead console, is that 12v and could I tap into that? I have not tested it yet.

Thanks

[dray]

Originally Posted by diirk

Thanks for the guide. I used it this morning to install the Gen5DIY radar cable that uses factory connectors, no splicing needed.

I pried the console off and then only disconnected the two closest light connectors to allow the console to drop down more.
To remove these, there's a small tab on the side of the connector. press that in and you can wiggle the connector loose.

Then I removed the Airbag light by using a very small flat head screwdriver under the red lock clip. move it back a few mm and then the release tab works and you can remove the connector.

I plugged in the Gen5DIY harness to each end of the connector and routed the power wire through the headliner. reconnected the lights and put it all together.

Took about 5 minutes.

I just did the same last night. Wish I had seen this post beforehand. Took me forever to figure out how to disconnect the airbag connector. I also just disconnected the overhead light connectors and left the other ones alone.

I was having trouble fishing the power cord through the headliner, just because I didn't want to pull the headliner down too hard. Finally, I used some stiff wire in my garage. I fished it through the opening in the headliner, tied it to the cord, and pulled it through that way. Sorta like you do with a wire snake.

Overall, it took me about 30 minutes.

[cybercoaster]

I'm having a really strange issue I hope someone can assist in resolving. I had my dashcam connected to this purple/white and gnd wire with no issues. I had to have my headliner replaced and not only did the dealer forget to plug in one plug but they pulled the wires out I had soldered in and also seem to have screwed them down in the headliner somewhere. I had to cut the wires and resolder again. They did also plug the loose plug I found back in, it was for the mirror (Onstar). However, I have not voltage at those wires anymore. I didnt have the wires cut, I just stripped back the coating, and soldered in to them. I have no voltage at all. I understand they are for the AIR BAG lights. The AIR BAG lights DO work. I even bought the adapter from GEN5DIY for the radar detector and leads to use as my power for the dashcam. I get no voltage at all for either device. As I mentioned, the Airbag lights are working. I do have the car started and not just in accessory mode. Is there maybe a fuse out for when the dealer had my +12 screwed down in the headliner somewhere? It just does not make sense as the airbag lights are working. I currently have my radar detector spliced in under the dash from another post I seen. I was just trying to clean it up and have everything fed from the overhead console. If I cant figure this out, I will just run the dashcam wire down to where the radar detector is spliced in as well. Thanks in advance. BTW-I am measuring the voltage with a multimeter. I have a strong electronic background but I cant figure this one out.