[cwebster]

Originally Posted by vtirocz

The transmission support and transmission mount should be removed as an assembly (as mentioned above.

4 bolts for the trans support crossmember. Torque spec = 58 Nm (43 lb ft)
2 bolts for the trans mount. Torque spec = 58 Nm (43 lb ft)

Thanks! So this came from the Service Desk at your dealer? Just trying to be clear about the source of this info.

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by cwebster

Thanks! So this came from the Service Desk at your dealer? Just trying to be clear about the source of this info.

I used this manual here (specific to '16): https://sellfy.com/p/M8JD/

From what I can tell, it appears to be the same material the dealer uses (for instance, it matches the dealer procedures posted in the prior thread). I do plan to get the Helms electronic copy of the manual once it's available for 2017, but using this to get me by before then.

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by cwebster

Thanks! So this came from the Service Desk at your dealer? Just trying to be clear about the source of this info.

FYI: Mark114 has the 2016 Helms manual and has confirmed that the torque specs in my post above are correct.

[Shorty45]

Originally Posted by cwebster

You're right. It would be much cleaner. By all means, take these extra steps if you feel so inclined. For me it was quicker to drain, refill, and wipe up. It gives me a little more time to go over all the drive and suspension components while I have it on the lift. The under-body parts tend to dry out and oxydize anyway so I use the oily (not drenched) rags to wipe down those dry parts.

Today I went ahead and changed transmission oil with the RP brand. Everything you pointed out with your directions and tips helped greatly Cal. I drove the car up on a pair of Race Ramps -56 and found that the mess of the oil drain wasn't too bad. Being that the front end was up, the drain was more focused over one area of the cross member. Rather than, over more area of the cross member, if the car was level. Like say on a lift. Just thought I would share that it wasn't too much to clean off. Btw, the RR-56 Ramps worked great also.

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by Shorty45

Today I went ahead and changed transmission oil with the RP brand. Everything you pointed out with your directions and tips helped greatly Cal. I drove the car up on a pair of Race Ramps -56 and found that the mess of the oil drain wasn't too bad. Being that the front end was up, the drain was more focused over one area of the cross member. Rather than, over more area of the cross member, if the car was level. Like say on a lift. Just thought I would share that it wasn't too much to clean off. Btw, the RR-56 Ramps worked great also.

Did you fill it while the car was level?

[mySSt]

A couple of tips for the tranny fluid change so its not messy and so you don't have to remove the cross member:
1) When you loosen the fill plug with the wrench, tighten it back hand tight. Then loosen the temp sensor connection (located below the fill plug) and don't remove it completely out of the way and start draining the tranny fluid thru this point. You can use your other hand to then loosen the fill plug to regulate how much air it lets in. This way you control how quick the tranny fluid comes out and prevent the mess.
2) After you drain as much fluid as you can out of the temp sensor port, then put the temp sensor back in and tighten it to spec.
3) Then you use the swivel connection with your wrench to loosen the normal drain plug. Before I loosened the plug completely, I made a "diverter" out of a few layers of folded aluminum foil to slide under the drain plug port to the front side of the cross member so the fluid that will come out of the drain plug port will flow down the "diverter" to my drain pan. Regulate the flow from the drain port by not completely removing the plug out of the way.
4) After all the fluid has drained out, a little wiping with a paper towel since my diverter wasn't perfect, but very little fluid got on the cross member.

[Infern0]

What about something like this?



https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Purpose...rds=oil+funnel

[mySSt]

Good thinking, but the lack of clearance and tight geometry in the drain plug area make it so a funnel won't work. I even thought about cutting a funnel like that up and trimming it in an attempt to make it work, but settled on using the foil diverter due to the very tight spaces to work with.

[MTS2020]

Someone point me in the direction of the thread sealant/lock that you used on the M6 Transmission. Thanks in advance

[rportnoy2004]

Hi, sorry if this is a stupid question, but why couldn't one use a "suction gun" or siphon pump with long tubing to suck the fluid out through the fill plug port and straight into a container? This would avoid a mess and also obviate the need to remove the drain plug at all, which is nice, given it's hard-to-reach location. Any thoughts on whether this could work?

[MatthewAMEL]

Originally Posted by rportnoy2004

Hi, sorry if this is a stupid question, but why couldn't one use a "suction gun" or siphon pump with long tubing to suck the fluid out through the fill plug port and straight into a container? This would avoid a mess and also obviate the need to remove the drain plug at all, which is nice, given it's hard-to-reach location. Any thoughts on whether this could work?

You absolutely can.

I use my Mityvac to to do the diff service and engine oil changes.

I will be using it to do the tranny service also. The only things to be aware of if what the inside of the case looks like at the fill port.

For an oil change, you know the dip stick runs all the way to the oil pan.

I will try the pump and see how much fluid I can evacuate. Then remove the drain plug to get the rest and check for metal.

[rportnoy2004]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

You absolutely can.

I use my Mityvac to to do the diff service and engine oil changes.

I will be using it to do the tranny service also. The only things to be aware of if what the inside of the case looks like at the fill port.

For an oil change, you know the dip stick runs all the way to the oil pan.

I will try the pump and see how much fluid I can evacuate. Then remove the drain plug to get the rest and check for metal.

Awesome, that's what I thought, and thanks for confirming my suspicion. I haven't done mine yet, its too cold in my garage here in MA to comfortably work on the car right now. If you end up doing it, I'd be really interested to know how it goes and if you encounter any issues. Thanks again.

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by MTS2020

Someone point me in the direction of the thread sealant/lock that you used on the M6 Transmission. Thanks in advance

This stuff works good to keep threads from backing out and it won't get frozen when you want to take the plug out next time. Loctite Blue 242

[waterman]

subscribed for torque specs.