[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by danielfulloa

I noticed that my shifter is now significantly more difficult to get into any gear. Sometimes it gets better, and after hard shifting, it stiffens up.

Going by the whole story, I think your transmission and clutch are probably OK.
Since she was frustrated, I'm guessing it is more likely she damaged the shift linkage parts, e.g. bushings, rods, etc. by forcing the shift lever. I say this because it sounds like your main problem is getting the car into gear and those shift movements having the proper "feel."

I have taught a few people to drive manual. As mentioned above, I think the best approach is to start on a flat surface at idle and learn to find the bite point. Get the car rolling slowly with no gas pedal application. The thing that is counter-intuitive for everyone is that the pedal pushing aspect is meaningless, while the pedal lifting aspect is everything. Emphasize that, as there is no other pedal like that.

EDIT: Below is from the repair manual. The table formatting is lost. Anytime you see "Go to step #, Go to step #", the first is for "yes, I found this to be the problem," while the second is "no, that was not a problem."

IAGNOSTIC INFORMATION AND PROCEDURES > TRANSMISSION SHIFTS HARD
(M13) > TEST DESCRIPTION

The numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

3

A static shift test is performed by shifting into all of the gear positions with the engine not
operating. While performing the test, one should note how the shift lever movement is felt. Also
while shifting from one gear to the other, feel for binding in the shift rails. You should be able to
feel the detent plungers operating when coming out of a gear and when going into a gear.

5

A dynamic shift test is performed by shifting into one of the gear positions with the engine
operating. Test for the correct mesh of the synchronizers and for the clutch releasing correctly.
When shifting into a gear, and shifting out of a gear, you should feel the shift detent plungers
operating, and the synchronizers sleeve moving freely.

6

The transmission uses a transmission fluid that allows proper synchronizer operation. The
incorrect fluid may cause hard shifting from varnish build up, or from not enough lubrication for
proper synchronizer operation. Only use the proper transmission fluid.
Step Action Yes No
DEFINITION: The transmission does not shift smoothly or without difficulty from one gear to the other.
1
Did you review the Symptoms - Manual Transmission
(M13) operations and perform the necessary
inspections?
Go to

Step 2

Go to Symptoms -
Manual
Transmission
(M13)
2
Inspect the clutch system for proper operation. Refer
to Clutch System Description and Operation .
Did you find or repair the condition? Go to

Step 11 Go to Step 3
3

Perform a static shift test on the
transmission.
1.
Test for the following conditions:
Blockage preventing full shift lever
movement
1.
Excessive movement 2. in the shift lever
3. Binding in the shift lever
4. Detent plungers or shift rails binding
5. Shift linkage binding
2.
Go to

Step 7 Go to Step 4

Shift 6. linkage proper adjustment
Are you able to shift into all gears?
4
Remove the shift control shift closeout boot and foam
isolator. Refer to Transmission Control Lever Knob
Replacement .
Inspect for the following:
Loose mounting
Foreign debris
Interference to foam isolator
Did you find and repair the condition? Go to

Step 11 Go to Step 5
5

Perform a dynamic shift test on the
transmission.
1.
Test for the following conditions:
1. Detent plungers or shift rails binding
2. Synchronizer sleeve binding
3. Gear clash into only one gear
4. Gear clash into all gears
2.
Did the transmission shift hard into all gears? Go to

Step 6 Go to Step 10
6

Inspect the transmission for the correct fluid level and
the correct type of transmission fluid. Refer to
Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill (M13 Without Y4Q) ,
and Approximate Fluid Capacities (M13) .
Is the transmission at the correct level and proper fluid
being used? Go to

Step 8 Go to Step 7

7
Drain and fill the transmission with the correct type
fluid. Refer to Transmission Fluid Drain and Fill (M13
Without Y4Q) .
Did you find and repair the condition? Go to

Step 11 Go to Step 8

8
Remove the transmission. Refer to
Transmission Replacement (M13 with LGX
Engine) Transmission Replacement (M13
with LTG Engine) .
1.
Inspect the clutch pressure plate and/or
clutch driven plate.
2.
Is the clutch pressure plate and/or clutch driven plate
worn or faulty? Go to

Step 9 Go to Step 10

9
Replace the clutch assembly. Refer to Clutch Assembly
Replacement (M13 Transmission) .
Did you find and repair the condition? Go to

Step 11 Go to Step 10

10
Disassemble the transmission. Refer to
Transmission Disassemble (M13 - LGX
w/L4Q) Transmission Disassemble (M13 -
LGX w/o Y4Q, LTG) .
1.
Inspect the transmission for the following
faulty components in the gear that is hard to
shift or clashing:
Excessive synchronizers blocking ring
to gear clearance
1.
Synchronizer hub external splines worn
or damaged
2.
Excessive axial clearance in the speed
gear
3.
Mainshaft to speed gear bearing or
journal worn
4.
Shift rail and the internal shift control
lever components for wear or damage
5.
2.
Replace worn or damaged components as
necessary.
3.
Did you find and repair the condition? Go to

Step 10

Go to Diagnostic
Aids
11 Operate the system in order to verify the repair.

Did you correct the condition? System OK Go to Step 1

[gtfoxy]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Going by the whole story, I think your transmission and clutch are probably OK.
Since she was frustrated, I'm guessing it is more likely she damaged the shift linkage parts, e.g. bushings, rods, etc. by forcing the shift lever. I say this because it sounds like your main problem is getting the car into gear and those shift movements having the proper "feel."

I have taught a few people to drive manual. As mentioned above, I think the best approach is to start on a flat surface at idle and learn to find the bite point. Get the car rolling slowly with no gas pedal application. The thing that is counter-intuitive for everyone is that the pedal pushing aspect is meaningless, while the pedal lifting aspect is everything. Emphasize that, as there is no other pedal like that.

Not going to speculate beyond shifting mechanisms.

When I taught my wife to drive stick I did it like this. Start & stop on a back road or in a vacant parking lot. Do it over & over. Then once they get it down do it perfectly 50 more times while holding about 2K in 1st for a couple hundred feet without the car jerking or bucking, then clutch & brake. That teaches throttle control.

Then you’re ready to actually start shifting, but not until then.

Teaching them to shift is a matter of feel you can help with. Use the same 2K RPM & put your hand on hers & show her how the shift feels & the direction. Do this through 4 gears then over again until they feel confident they can do it on their own. It doesn’t take long.

[danielfulloa]

Originally Posted by Cocopuf

You're a really good boyfriend. My husband would've kicked me out of his driver's seat if I stalled once or did anything like that to his baby lol. Luckily I have my own and he doesn't have to worry about that. Best of luck with your car!

Thank you lol

[danielfulloa]

Dealer seems like where I'm going, thank you for all the responses

[danielfulloa]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Going by the whole story, I think your transmission and clutch are probably OK.
Since she was frustrated, I'm guessing it is more likely she damaged the shift linkage parts, e.g. bushings, rods, etc. by forcing the shift lever. I say this because it sounds like your main problem is getting the car into gear and those shift movements having the proper "feel."

Hoping this is the case

[CamaroChriSS]

Moving forward, if you want to teach someone in a car this powerful, just do the simplest thing possible:

1) With the car off, have her press the clutch 20-30 times at varying speeds. Really focusing on a slow steady release to see how it feels.
2) With the car on and in first gear, have her slowly release the clutch to get the car going. Really focusing on where it catches and how to feather off at the very end.

That's the hardest part. Getting started. Shifting while driving (especially with rev match) is a breeze, and you don't need ANY throttle to get this car moving. It's actually much easier to learn in something like this than an old Saturn with about 90hp left in it because you really only need to focus on the clutch. Balancing the clutch and gas can come after she's mastered the clutch itself.

Good luck!

[L78toLT1]

I seriously doubt you hurt anything at all. You sure as hell didn't destroy the transmission

[MR's 2SS]

Seems like a lot of drama here to me as well. I would not be afraid of changing out my tranny fluid myself as I am about to do my first oil change at 1,000 miles and I will be changing engine, tranny and diff myself. Just make sure you use a spec that is recommended. It doesnt have to be a Delco part. Im using the recommended Mobil 1 in the engine and Royal Purple in the tranny and rear.
If you choose to take it to the dealer I dont think I would tell them you were teaching your girlfriend. I would indicate this is your first car with a manual and just suck it up and take the heat for what ever damage is done.
If you choose to change the oil yourself your looking for signs of a lot of metal shavings but if the car is very new there may well be that anyway. So your looking for a lot of it. As someone else mentioned it could be in the shifter as opposed to in the tranny. If she was getting mad at it she could have slammed something.
Back in the 70s I taught my girlfriend how to drive a car in my 1970 Vette. I gave her a lot of discussion about why the gears need to match rpm and all this sort of classroom stuff. She did fine. The car was fine. It was a rat to begin with. How much of a Vette can a kid pumping gas for a living afford? But I will say that if she started getting frustrated I would have pulled the plug immediately. Its a finesse thing. Shifting a powerful vehicle with anger never goes well. If she couldnt contain her frustration you should have told her we can try again tomorrow when you calm down... not allowed her to do a burning launch at 3 grand.
Not even if you think shes the one bro...That girl I taught on my Vette in 1974??? I thought she was the one. She wasnt.
I have the one now... for 33 years... and our M-6 Camaro is hers.
Almost forgot... If you change your own fluids make sure to keep your receipts. Just saying you did maintenance might not help in a warrantee claim.

[AZIROC]

Wow.... some of the people on here are TOUGH on you OP.

I wont lie though, they were definitely right about learning on a beater. I learned on my dads old s-10 5 speed. a performance car is prob the last thing to learn on.

Anywho, if it was just u 2 learning "back to back" and depending on how new the car is, its prob a clutch/ contact issue. I wouldn't say it needs replaced though. If these trans were ment to go for 10s of 1000s of miles, stalling a few times shouldn't hurt it. Check the fluids, maybe change them out, and just drive it normal and see of the problem goes away. If not, have a mechanic check it out.

[UnknownJinX]

I am going to concur with others and say that, yeah, should have picked up a manual beater for that. I learned how to drive manual on a 1999 Corolla 5-speed. Cost me $1200 and I sold it later for $1100(and it was gone quick), plus an oil change, light bulbs(I did most of my training at night and the old bulbs were crap) and some gas money. If it breaks down, oh well, I junk it and suck up a few hundred bucks.

I later had a 2008 Honda Accord beater and I taught my friend how to drive a stick on it. Make sure you go through the theory beforehand, and start without using gas throttle at all. Focus on getting the car going on a flat surface without using gas pedal at all. You have to form the bite point into your muscle memory. After you get it down, that's where gas pedal comes in to make the process quicker.

Originally Posted by splatrd

If you are that concerned that there was transmission damage I would change the fluid and check for metal filings or pieces. Drain fluid in a open pan and look for metal, and maybe use magnet.
However, unless you both were overly abusive with grinding gears, I agree with the others that it is likely that the clutch is fried. If so, it is likely the flywheel has burnt spots on it and needs to be resurfaced.

This. Easy way for you to tell if it's a transmission issue.

And if Camaro's clutch system is anything like Corvette's then maybe you could use Ranger clutch fluid method(basically, pump your clutch like 50 times when the car is off and replace the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir and see if there is a lot of clutch dust in there.

Originally Posted by Crushin_LT1

https://www.thedrive.com/cars-101/29...l-transmission

I've never actually done a WOT Shift, is that just flooring it with the clutch in and shifting?

Never powershifted, I do try to rev-match but the auto-rev match is so good i can't compete.

WOT shift is the no-lift-shift. There is an Ask-Al thread for this feature on this forum.

I do my own rev-matching in daily driving as it is a skill I want to keep sharp, but on a track, I rely on ARM.

[avalonandl]

First thing is I tell everyone about learning to drive a stick is EASSSSSYYYYY.

Take it slow, easy, smooth......

[Rayvan]

Try changing the fluid in the clutch master-cylinder. May be all that there is.

The G8 GXP, the '04-'06 GTOs as well as some Gen5 Camaros benefited greatly with regular fluid changes to the clutch master cyl.

[LT4Greg]

Good luck daniel! I personally don’t think your LT1 trans is messed up but you should get it checked by a dealer since your car is still under warranty. I like a lot of other folks learned to drive a manual on a used car. After I learned I had to have a new clutch installed because I guess I fried it. I bought a used 1975 Buick Skyhawk hatchback that I couldn’t drive home and eventually learned how to drive a 4 speed. Ah, the good old days!��

[seethruya]

You are fine! I seriously doubt there is any damage to your transmission. At most, you damaged the clutch. If the clutch plate was indeed damaged, use it as an opportunity to go with an aftermarket solution.

As others have said, this. In my case, my 1995 Ford Ranger beater.