[Scoooter12]

Hmmm for some reason MY cart is showing up. I cant see what you put in there.

[JakeF_RS]

I'm planning on getting FE3 stabilizer bars, end links, and toe rods for my LT. Will I need to get any bolts to put them on??

[Snrub]

Just a thought - Is there any reason not to do the FEA sway bar? It's stiffer than the FE3. The best bang for the buck first modification is probably sways. Shocks and springs can make a bigger difference and provide a more sophisticated solution, but they cost more as a first step.

I haven't tested out the difference (don't own the car yet), but I wouldn't worry about bushings and stuff like that, your probably not going to notice the difference. Correct me if I'm mistaken, but I believe the various end links are just this (FE2 vs. FE3 sway bar end links are a different story). My my tentative plan is to FE3: shocks & springs, FEA sways, 4-piston brakes, alignment.

Regarding the tire pressures, if you're running a 200-3xxTW tire then your target hot pressure range is probably 32-35psi. With other cars I've found to get this you probably need to start 8-10psi lower when cold (depends on weather and other factors too).

You'll probably want a dual duty brake pad too. I've historically used Hawk HPS, but their 5.0 or street/race pads might be a more modern choice or whatever you prefer in a different brand. Hawk Street/race is a slightly tweaked DTC-30, which I personally found a bit grabby, but lots of other people like them. For fluid the suggestions here are good, or if you're looking at your local parts store with more limited selection, pick up some "Ford Spec" DOT4 fluid. The DOT3 "Ford Spec" will work too, but you will have to change your fluid far more frequently. If you're tracking the car a fair bit you should be changing it more frequently anyway.

The RS4s seem to be the current hot endurance racing tire. If you're running a square wheel/tire setup, there's basically no returns once your section width exceeds the width of the wheel. eg. On the OEM 8.5" that would be around 215. For a street tire you need a bit of rim protection, so ~20mm/1" wider tire makes sense.

[JakeF_RS]

Originally Posted by Snrub

Just a thought - Is there any reason not to do the FEA sway bar? It's stiffer than the FE3. The best bang for the buck first modification is probably sways. Shocks and springs can make a bigger difference and provide a more sophisticated solution, but they cost more as a first step.

For me personally I don't think I need anything as stiff as the FEA's, since this is my daily as well. I'm just looking to upgrade the handling to something close to what the V6 1LE is.

[Snrub]

^ Sway bars reduce body roll and have less effect on stiffness than shocks and springs. There's not a huge difference between the FEA and FE3 sway bars.

[JakeF_RS]

Originally Posted by Snrub

^ Sway bars reduce body roll and have less effect on stiffness than shocks and springs. There's not a huge difference between the FEA and FE3 sway bars.

Right, I just want to make sure I’m not three-wheeling over bumps and such.

[Scoooter12]

Does anybody actually know the stiffness of the FEA sway bars compared to the FE4 or FE3?

There only a handful of people on here that have gotten the FEA upgrade kit from GM, which is over $5k if you buy the whole kit. and the FEA bars are tuned to ONLY work with the rest of the FEA suspension, as it is vastly different than the FE3 or FE4.

I run FE4 sway bars, and they have a huge effect on body roll. its a much more like a go kart. but is pretty rough for a daily driver if you have bad roads in your area.

In terms of brake pads, the stock Ferodo brake pads that the SS and v6 1le use are plenty powerful and cheap. I wouldn't swap them unless youre trying to reduce brake dust as there have been many forum members that have switched to a "track" or "road and track" pad only to find out that they have reduced stopping power.

They are strong enough that ive triggered ABS under hard braking, while in a perfectly straightline, on a 90degree track with my RS4's. unless you've got a bunch of track days under your belt I see no reason to switch brake compounds.
The hardcore guys are using DTC60's and XP12's

FYI, I have three wheeled a handful of times.... trying to back into a very steep driveway.

I also wouldn't recommend running a square setup with OEM sway bars as the rear becomes very loose

[JakeF_RS]

I already know the FE3s works fairly well, since they’re used on the 1LE so I think I’ll stick with that for my suspension setup. When you say it gets tail happy with OEM bars, do you mean a square LT with FE3 bars?

[Scoooter12]

square tires with FE4 bars is my current setup.

and slightly loose makes sense considering the stock setup for the v6 1le, the SS and the ss 1le are all staggered tires.

Mind you this is only noticeable when I'm 9/10 or 10/10 at the track. its not even a problem on backroads because I simply cant push the car that hard on the street. but if I wanted to keep these bars and really get the balance dialed in, id want to go 245 front and 275 or 285 in the rear, like the OEM setup.
Although being able to rotate tires is nice.

[Kairles]

I run a square setup on my V6 1LE and the car doesnt feel loose at all. Feels more balanced and planted then it did stock. This is on track, no real difference during daily dutys.

[Scoooter12]

Interesting. Whats your tire setup?

Also, I'm jealous you have a krypton green 1LE

[Kairles]

18x10 Apex wheels with 275/35/18 Federal RSRRs. Camber is -1.8(maxed) on the front and -1.3 rear

[Snrub]

I would expert that camber setup to increase the grip on the front relative to the rear.

I think the point about the reduced grip balance at the rear with a square setup makes sense. Here's an idea to reduce the issue: FEA front sway bar, FE3 rear sway bar. Anyone tried this? Other thoughts?