[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

So they sent me the wrong tool to check it with too, they sent me the pushrod thats adjustable height but it has a nut and a locknut, supposedly there is a different tool that is easier to use.

I actually found it easier to thread the rocker bolt in and hold the tip of the rocker off the spring while continuing to tighten the bolt down. I would keep jiggiling the rocker arm and slowly keep tightening until I could tell that the tip of the rocker just started to make contact with the spring. So I considered this my zero lash point, then started to count the number of turns until the bolt tightens up and make metal to metal contact.

Problem is I don't know the thread pitch of the rocker arm bolts, anyone know? If its normal 1.25 for a regular M8 bolt, then I got 1 turn until it tightened up so that would mean I have 1.25mm or .0492in of preload. However I am sure this method isn't accurate enough to get me close to the +/-.010 tolerance that Johnson recommends. Seems like there would be a way to do this with a dial indicator?

use the adjustable pr and find zero lash, measure the adjustable pr with a 8"digital caliper, then add the desired preload to the measured length. That is the length push rod you will need.

[oldman]

Yep, there is offset bushing etc to allow you to degree the cam in. The factory is like 50 degrees variable anyhow. My original Txspeed cam was 20 degree limiter, and my new cam is zero to 6 due to my aftermarket pistons having huge valve pockets. stock piston it is zero. My C5R chain is heck of tight. no slop

[MeanGreen1LE]

Originally Posted by oldman

I tried to pivot the chain from the front, but it gets pried / pivoted off backwards as you pull the cam forward. The oil pan was a 45 minute job, not like it was the end of the world.

Sorry to revive this old thread again but I have not found anything on here or YouTube that shows exactly what has to be removed to drop the pan. i.e. to lower the cradle and/or raise engine some.

I’m trying to decide what route I want to take and this seems the best fit for me. I would try to jimmy the chain off the cam sprocket but I’d really like to go with c5r chain so I’m looking at removing the oil pan or entire engine.

Also as some have said I appreciate the good info from oldman, KingLt1 and others; especially all the valve-train guidance I’ve seen lately. I want as much reliability as realistic.

[oldman]

dropping the pan added about 1.5 hours total to the job.

[Calubi]

It amazes me what you guys do in your garages. I wish I had half of that confidence, patience, and experience!

I'm tempted to pull the heads and try reassembling the valve train as a learning exercise. Probably a bad idea. Is there any benefit to upgrading parts of the valve train if staying stock cam?

[Matos1LE]

Originally Posted by oldman

dropping the pan added about 1.5 hours total to the job.

Did that you lower the cradle or raise the motor?

[oldman]

did both

[cmitchell17]

Originally Posted by Calubi

It amazes me what you guys do in your garages. I wish I had half of that confidence, patience, and experience!

I'm tempted to pull the heads and try reassembling the valve train as a learning exercise. Probably a bad idea. Is there any benefit to upgrading parts of the valve train if staying stock cam?

You could port the heads, to get them CNC ported by a vendor is way overly expensive (in my opinion based on the quantity they port but CNC machines are expensive) Why don't you want to put in a cam?

[Calubi]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

You could port the heads, to get them CNC ported by a vendor is way overly expensive (in my opinion based on the quantity they port but CNC machines are expensive) Why don't you want to put in a cam?

It's not that I'm against a (mild) cam, I'm just scared to attempt something that involved in my garage! Especially never having done it before. I'd love to learn, though, which is why I've thought about a valve train rework, even if it's just mostly a disassemble and reassemble to get more comfortable with how everything works together. I suppose it's mostly a question of confidence, and how to build it up enough to tackle larger projects like a cam.

[oldman]

It a hobby for me, so I can see doing heads only. I would go with a Proflow intake valve if you want maximum flow (undercut head), if money is not a big issue. I got my heads ported by Pray things of beauty. The aluminum block does not like many torques / torques so I would go with stock head bolts or ARP studs but only to 105 ft -lbs. Or just buy these studs cause ARP is only thinking about a limited use race engine, not Joe Normal working on his engine as a hobby.

https://www.livernoismotorsports.com...structions.pdf

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by Calubi

It's not that I'm against a (mild) cam, I'm just scared to attempt something that involved in my garage! Especially never having done it before. I'd love to learn, though, which is why I've thought about a valve train rework, even if it's just mostly a disassemble and reassemble to get more comfortable with how everything works together. I suppose it's mostly a question of confidence, and how to build it up enough to tackle larger projects like a cam.

If this car is not your daily driver, and if you're likely to mod other cars in the future, I recommend that you do the work yourself. I'm sure you know, or can find someone local to help you out. If you were in Georgia, I would be happy to help.
I'm 61 and have been wrenching on cars, motorcycles and boats my entire life and cannot imagine having a modded car and having to rely on others to keep it running. The reality is, there is almost always something that needs tweaking once you start modding. It's a lot more cost effective to do things yourself as well as a lot more satisfying. You will probably find that you enjoy working on your car as much or more than driving it. Look at Oldman for instance; you never see him posting about driving his car, but he's probably had his motor apart a half- dozen times trying out different combinations of parts lol!

[oldman]

What, I'm suppose to drive the thing

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by oldman

What, I'm suppose to drive the thing

Yes, a minimum of 500 miles between cam changes

[Calubi]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

If this car is not your daily driver, and if you're likely to mod other cars in the future, I recommend that you do the work yourself. I'm sure you know, or can find someone local to help you out. If you were in Georgia, I would be happy to help.

I'm 61 and have been wrenching on cars, motorcycles and boats my entire life and cannot imagine having a modded car and having to rely on others to keep it running. The reality is, there is almost always something that needs tweaking once you start modding. It's a lot more cost effective to do things yourself as well as a lot more satisfying. You will probably find that you enjoy working on your car as much or more than driving it. Look at Oldman for instance; you never see him posting about driving his car, but he's probably had his motor apart a half- dozen times trying out different combinations of parts lol!

I completely agree. I've been doing my own general maintenance, brakes, and external engine mods since high school, with a few exceptions while lacking a work space. The internal engine work I've had done by shops, mainly from a lack of confidence. And you're right, it's expensive and I'm reliant on them when something goes wrong.

Are there any particular books/manuals you would recommend for learning more about GM engine building? I figure Gen V is probably too new, but are the LS series books/manuals still mostly relevant?