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Old 12-01-2020, 05:06 PM   #43
KarmaKrush
 
Drives: Chevy Camaro
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Basically the 2 screws holding the lift blocks on are just not enough to stop movement.
I paid 480$ to fix them today, I will never use a lift on my car again
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Old 12-01-2020, 05:52 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarmaKrush View Post
Basically the 2 screws holding the lift blocks on are just not enough to stop movement.
I paid 480$ to fix them today, I will never use a lift on my car again
Sorry, let me join the list of those who still don't understand. Those set screws do nothing when the car is lifted, their sole purpose is to prevent the lift pads from dropping when the car isn't jacked up.

The vehicle's weight is supposed to be sustained through the top of the lift blocks that touch the chassis next to the pinch welds, while the welds themselves simply serve as guides.

Someone tell me where I'm wrong. My car was lifted umpteen times at the dealership and tire shops, with these lift pads on it, with nary an issue.
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Old 12-01-2020, 05:57 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Invertalon View Post
Yeah, this. My lift pads 'bottom out' on the floor/frame above the rail, it's not just supported by the frame rail itself. Picture below is right after I installed them. The flat tops of the jack pads on the top 'frame' are what stabilizes the lift pad.

I see the pinchweld is bottomed out in the groove of the pad, but it doesn't look like the top of the pad is contacting anything. Are you sure it's actually butted against the floor?
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Old 12-01-2020, 06:57 PM   #46
Allez
 
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From the makers of ZL1 Addons Lift pads - see the 2 minute mark.
The pinchweld is supposed to support the weight of the car, not the area around it according to this.
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Old 12-01-2020, 08:11 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtirocz View Post
I see the pinchweld is bottomed out in the groove of the pad, but it doesn't look like the top of the pad is contacting anything. Are you sure it's actually butted against the floor?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allez View Post
From the makers of ZL1 Addons Lift pads - see the 2 minute mark.
The pinchweld is supposed to support the weight of the car, not the area around it according to this.
I see, thanks for the info Allez, it seems they do say the bottom of the pinch weld is what supports the car's weight. My ZL1 Addons lift pads do appear to butt against the floor, but I think the bottom of the slot is also in contact with the edge of the pinch weld, at least they are extremely close to the frame at both locations.

This pinch weld is one of those unintuitive designs that may be mechanically sound, but will keep confusing everyone to no end, because a few thin sheet metal edges will never appear sturdy enough to hold up 3600-4000 pounds without bending, welded high strength steel or not.
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Magnuson Heartbeat TVS2300 | Roto-Fab CAI | JMS PowerMAX voltage booster
Soler LT5 95mm TB | 1LE replica wheels | BMR rear cradle lockout | Jannetty Racing custom tune
1100 - 1/30/18 | 2000 - 1/31/18
3000 - 2/06/18 TPW 2/26/18
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Old 12-01-2020, 09:01 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arpad_m View Post
I see, thanks for the info Allez, it seems they do say the bottom of the pinch weld is what supports the car's weight. My ZL1 Addons lift pads do appear to butt against the floor, but I think the bottom of the slot is also in contact with the edge of the pinch weld, at least they are extremely close to the frame at both locations.

This pinch weld is one of those unintuitive designs that may be mechanically sound, but will keep confusing everyone to no end, because a few thin sheet metal edges will never appear sturdy enough to hold up 3600-4000 pounds without bending, welded high strength steel or not.


100% agree ( confusing and somewhat concerning)

I ended up buying magnetic flat bottom jack pads, rubber slotted jack pads and permanent screw type jack pads. The permanent ones are still in the box. After reviewing the fitment / potential failure points, nothing about any of the products makes me say, wow I feel really secure. I’d never lay under this car and start tugging at things while lifted (even with jackstands). Personally, I like the flat bottom removable pad best for my type use. It seems to be the most secure for weight distribution, with its larger physical size and stable flat bottom (I’ll use for removal of wheels and brakes)

For me, under car work = Race ramps....
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Old 12-02-2020, 02:56 AM   #49
Uk2019
 
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I agree that the pinch weld itself should be taking the weight. On my 2ss convertible, the genuine zl1 addons pads also contacted the area around the pinchweld instead of the bottom. The attached pictures show my solution. A few strips of aluminium cut and inserted. Also used the same strips to stop the set screws damaging the paint and causing issues with corrosion. I know they're flat at the end but any movement of the pads could break the paint. Underseal also applied and the pads attached while still wet to ensure no moisture will get under the underseal and cause more harm than good. Blue locktite used on the set screw threads. All still firmly in place after over a year and lots of lifts by floor jacks and garage lifts
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Old 12-02-2020, 08:38 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arpad_m View Post
Sorry, let me join the list of those who still don't understand. Those set screws do nothing when the car is lifted, their sole purpose is to prevent the lift pads from dropping when the car isn't jacked up.

The vehicle's weight is supposed to be sustained through the top of the lift blocks that touch the chassis next to the pinch welds, while the welds themselves simply serve as guides.

Someone tell me where I'm wrong. My car was lifted umpteen times at the dealership and tire shops, with these lift pads on it, with nary an issue.
I agree with this. Apparently we are some of the few. Lifting solely on the pinch weld makes no sense to me. I don't even see how that would be the best stability-wise either? As you had said, the screws are nearly useless as far as actually lifting the car. The ZL1 addons, that were made SPECIFICALLY for the purpose of lifting the car, make full contact.

So these ZL1 addons, that many have had no problem paying close to $100 for, are still supposed to be modified for proper use?
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Old 12-02-2020, 09:30 AM   #51
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I just ordered the ZL1 Add On lift pads for my SS Convertible and now I am wondering if I should install them. I am going to need new tires soon and is the reason I ordered them. I am afraid the tire installers will mess up my fenders. I don't think anyone on the forum has had any issues though with that with the lift pads. If they damage the fenders with the lift pads on I will be responsible for the cost of repair though. Guess I'll have to see how they fit. I do have their magnetic pinch weld pad and never had any problems lifting the car with my floor jack so I think they probably will be okay. A lift will put a lot less pressure on the four lift points than my floor jack on one since it lifts one whole side of the car or approx 2000lbs (convertible SS).
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Old 12-02-2020, 09:41 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigss50 View Post
I just ordered the ZL1 Add On lift pads for my SS Convertible and now I am wondering if I should install them. I am going to need new tires soon and is the reason I ordered them. I am afraid the tire installers will mess up my fenders. I don't think anyone on the forum has had any issues though with that with the lift pads. If they damage the fenders with the lift pads on I will be responsible for the cost of repair though. Guess I'll have to see how they fit. I do have their magnetic pinch weld pad and never had any problems lifting the car with my floor jack so I think they probably will be okay. A lift will put a lot less pressure on the four lift points than my floor jack on one since it lifts one whole side of the car or approx 2000lbs (convertible SS).
Do a walk-around of the car with the service writer before they take it in. That's what I did when I got tires over the weekend. I also handed them a printout of an image showing the jacking points. They used a wide padded flat lift under about 5/6 of the rocker panel but it was back away from the front fenders, so did no damage that I have been able to detect. The fenders are just as they were when I brought the car in.
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Old 12-03-2020, 12:14 PM   #53
MatthewAMEL

 
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There is a lot of teeth gnashing about these pads.


They work. They are stable. There are far more stories about cars falling off jacks and stands without these than with them.


ALL modern unibody cars are designed to be lifted by the pinch welds. It's not specific to GM. My Honda's, Fords, friends Mercedes, etc...


I use them to lift my Wife and Daughters cars, my car, etc...


The set screw makes sure the pad stay attached to the vehicle. I have had mine on for 4 years and no issues through countless AutoX and track days. I have put my car up in the air so many times, I can't even begin to count. Well, so much I broke down and got a QuickJack.


Install and use them according to instructions and enjoy a reduction in stress when it's time to get your wheels off the ground.
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Old 12-03-2020, 01:00 PM   #54
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Is ZL1 on this forum? I would like to hear a reply from them concerning these.
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Old 12-03-2020, 01:38 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XAUSTD View Post
Is ZL1 on this forum? I would like to hear a reply from them concerning these.

They would pretty much state what is in the video posted in this topic. What I would pay attention to is what Matthew has stated above. Nothing like a non bias user to evaluate. After reading his post I feel pretty good about ordering them for my 50 SS Vert which I am very picky about. However, on page 1 post #13 KarmKrush has lift pads and still they damaged his fenders so I will speak to the tech before I let them lift my car.

Last edited by craigss50; 12-03-2020 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 12-03-2020, 05:16 PM   #56
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The fender damage that i've seen doesn't come from the pinch weld lift pads . The dealerships use a two post lift that has arms that swing under the car. When the lifting pads on those arms are not adjusted correctly then the arms of the two post lift will make contact with bottom of the front fender
and bend them before the lifting pad makes contact with the subframe/ chassis of the car.

Has nothing to do with the strength of the pinch welds and everything to do with techs not paying attention to details before lifting the car.

Last edited by Racerman27410; 12-03-2020 at 08:56 PM.
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