[Jason18ZL1LE]

I’d be disappointed. I put down 640whp with 91 on a 105F+ day on a Mustang dyno. My mod list is below. On E85 I’m well over 700 and still stock blower and TB, no porting.

[GT-ER]

Originally Posted by F419sr1

Mine did 665 on 93 no meth. Stock cam kooks with green cats roto fab and a 103 Tb. 13 pounds of boost. On e40 it made 698 and was running out of fuel. I also have the booster. My tq is no where near yours. 639

What dyno type?

Originally Posted by Jason18ZL1LE

I’d be disappointed. I put down 640whp with 91 on a 105F+ day on a Mustang dyno. My mod list is below. On E85 I’m well over 700 and still stock blower and TB, no porting.

You have a cam though, which makes a huge difference. I would expect a whipple stock cam car to be similar to a stock eaton but cammed car.

Also, doesn't a dyno dynamics read even lower than a mustang?

Either way, I'm not going to dwell on this. I'll just try it on some other dyno's to see what happens. Ultimately, my fault for not getting a baseline before I modded and I suppose that, ultimately, dyno numbers don't really matter at the end of the day.

[Markoz28]

I think the best way to measure if what has been done works is to take to the drag strip. A baseline pass would have been good but if you can run now in the low 10s (good tires needed) then you should be good. I would think.

Bone stock I ran 11.4 at 120mph stock tires with 3k miles. I added RF intake, 2” kooks, 9.1 pulley and MS tune and ran 11.3 at 129mph stock tires with 9k miles. Time difference was not much better but mph was awesome! Plus first time out was in 60 degree weather and 2nd time out was in 90degree with humidity of 75%.

[mexi]

car needs a cam

[GT-ER]

Originally Posted by Markoz28

I think the best way to measure if what has been done works is to take to the drag strip. A baseline pass would have been good but if you can run now in the low 10s (good tires needed) then you should be good. I would think.

Bone stock I ran 11.4 at 120mph stock tires with 3k miles. I added RF intake, 2” kooks, 9.1 pulley and MS tune and ran 11.3 at 129mph stock tires with 9k miles. Time difference was not much better but mph was awesome! Plus first time out was in 60 degree weather and 2nd time out was in 90degree with humidity of 75%.

I'm dying to go, it's my lack of time that really kills me since the closest track to me is over an hour away. I have R888R tires out back so I should be okay traction wise.

[Markoz28]

Originally Posted by GT-ER

I'm dying to go, it's my lack of time that really kills me since the closest track to me is over an hour away. I have R888R tires out back so I should be okay traction wise.

I’m getting those same tires in 4 weeks. Closest drag strip to me is an hour away as well. I have to plan it accordingly. I won’t be going again until fall, sometime around October to get some better air. With that and some good tires hoping to cut a 10.8 pass. After that I’m debating on porting the SC and e85 or meth, or saving for a much longer time and going Mag 2.3 and e85. I would love to do a cam but I need the car to act like stock “per request/demand from the wife.”

[staples87]

640 / 710 as long as the Dyno Dynamics wasn't altered to read Dynojet numbers would be around 680-690whp and 740-750rwtq on a DJ. That's pretty solid numbers in my opinion. You may want to check and see if it's pulling timing up-top or if it's a very conservative tune and could use a degree or two in the upper range.

You could also check the vacuum on the car under wide open throttle, that will give you an idea on your intake restriction. If there is a lot of vacuum at wide open, that could indicated an air flow restriction (throttle body or air intake).

[gotswap]

Originally Posted by staples87

640 / 710 as long as the Dyno Dynamics wasn't altered to read Dynojet numbers would be around 680-690whp and 740-750rwtq on a DJ. That's pretty solid numbers in my opinion. You may want to check and see if it's pulling timing up-top or if it's a very conservative tune and could use a degree or two in the upper range.

You could also check the vacuum on the car under wide open throttle, that will give you an idea on your intake restriction. If there is a lot of vacuum at wide open, that could indicated an air flow restriction (throttle body or air intake).

Where would you check vacuum @ WOT? Anything WOT is under boost, any amount of vacuum would be a massive reduction in power

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by gotswap

Where would you check vacuum @ WOT? Anything WOT is under boost, any amount of vacuum would be a massive reduction in power

Intake tract is never under boost, so I'm assuming that's what he was referring to.

[GT-ER]

Originally Posted by staples87

640 / 710 as long as the Dyno Dynamics wasn't altered to read Dynojet numbers would be around 680-690whp and 740-750rwtq on a DJ. That's pretty solid numbers in my opinion. You may want to check and see if it's pulling timing up-top or if it's a very conservative tune and could use a degree or two in the upper range.

You could also check the vacuum on the car under wide open throttle, that will give you an idea on your intake restriction. If there is a lot of vacuum at wide open, that could indicated an air flow restriction (throttle body or air intake).

Timing is 20-21* all the way to redline, 0 KR. I'm sure I can add another degree or so of timing but don't know what it'll be worth when I'm already over 20* and at 16-17psi. Boost also doesn't fall off in the upper rpms, on the contrary, it climbs all the way to redline.

Larger TB does make me think though...good call on the vacuum readings. That's a cool and somewhat easy test to do.

[staples87]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Intake tract is never under boost, so I'm assuming that's what he was referring to.

Correct. I should have clarified.

[7WSM]

The AF looks to be a little rich. Most of the guys I know that do DI cars run it a little close to 12.5-13.

[GT-ER]

Originally Posted by 7WSM

The AF looks to be a little rich. Most of the guys I know that do DI cars run it a little close to 12.5-13.

13 is pretty lean, I ran 12.0 before the meth but wanted to run a little richer with meth in case it failed my engine has a chance. Either way, AF ratio doesn't affect power too much unless it's pig rich or crazy lean.

[staples87]

Originally Posted by GT-ER

Timing is 20-21* all the way to redline, 0 KR. I'm sure I can add another degree or so of timing but don't know what it'll be worth when I'm already over 20* and at 16-17psi. Boost also doesn't fall off in the upper rpms, on the contrary, it climbs all the way to redline.

Larger TB does make me think though...good call on the vacuum readings. That's a cool and somewhat easy test to do.

Yeah that's plenty of timing for 16-17psi, so that's good you're not getting any knock retard. If you have HP Tuners and can log, I would enable MAP in kPA and do a log. Keep an eye on wide open throttle to see if the number starts to drop off, especially in the higher RPMs. That would tell you that the engine is struggling to breath in the upper range. This would be a simple way of trying to figure out.