[GT-ER]

I installed an aeroforce gauge with their wideband controller on my 2018 ZL1. It worked great for maybe 2000 miles and then the sensor died. I replaced it with another one and maybe 1000 miles later it's dying again. What's going on? It just stops reading periodically, but a new sensor fixed the problem for a while.

Both sensors were Bosch sensors and they were installed where the secondary O2 sensors go. They are facing down. I put maybe 200-300 miles a month on my car and frequently turn it on to move it around and turn it back off. Could this be why?

[Vtor_ZL1]

Too far down pipe to reach operating / self cleaning temps ? Too many short trips ?



Running too rich ? or leaded gas.

[GT-ER]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

Too far down pipe to reach operating / self cleaning temps ? Too many short trips ?



Running too rich ? or leaded gas.

No leaded gas and I doubt too rich, too many short trips is very possible but then am I destined to replacing sensors once a quarter?

[parish8]

On turbo cars with the sensor 2’ behind the turbo I have always gone through Bosch sensors. I would get between 6-12 months out of a sensor and they often failed when I needed them most like at the track. I switched to controllers that take the ntk sensor and have never had to replace a sensor.

[parish8]

I think you get a 1 year warranty on the Bosch sensor at places like Napa and they are cheap. When I was running a Bosch I made sure I had spares and used the warranty. I would rather spend 3x as much and have a sensor that doesn’t fail.

[oldman]

My sensors fail every 2 years, I swap them between a few of my rides. Most are FI and I don't know if this is related. On my Camaro it is in the off road pipe, on my supercharged civic it is in the off road pipe, when I do run a turbo on the Type R is is in the downpipe say 9" from the turbo, so much closer, but this is a turbo on a header, total path is at least 20" from head.

[GT-ER]

The sensor mine uses is the Bosch 17025 sensor that has the small connector. It's not as available as the one with the larger connector. Upon reading a bunch of online reviews, it looks like it's fairly common for my sensor to fail a lot. Sucks for sure.

[oldman]

always wonder what people do with the kits that tie the sensor to the reader..

[GT-ER]

Maybe I'll try another controller with the older style sensor. I've had those before with no issues.

[GT-ER]

http://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-...-applications/

This article describes something that I do often, turn on the accessories to mess with something, and then turn on the car. The sensor will be heated by the time I turn it on which this article says is a no no, and I've done this 100 times lately while testing my whipple/trunk coolant tank setup.

Oh well...

[Dysan911]

Very interesting this topic came up!. I am in the exact same boat and have been plagued with this issue for quite some time.

Check it out - Long read but worth while.

I started of with an Aerofoce WB Sensor Add on so I could read the A/F on my Aeroforce gauge. Never had any issues with it on the stock exhaust. O2 Bung was welded just a few inches away from the factory o2.

I later decided after I got the ARH LT Headers that I wanted a Dual Pod so I could run a dedicated A/F Gauge like the AEM and retire (sale) my Aeroforce WB Sensor kit. I bought one on here used and it worked great for a month or so. I had the WB installed in the factory 02 Bung that ARH installs in their midpipe (typically for the Secondary 02's) The weather started getting cooler here which is about the only thing I can really put my finger on that changed recently and out of the blue one day on my way into the office the AEM suddenly went to FULL LEAN 19.8 and would spastically read the correct A/F for a brief second or two here and there. Nothing I could do to ever get it to read correctly like it used too..

I called AEM and they convinced me to ship my gauge in for them to run a diagnostic which I did but I also decided to purchase a brand new unit while they evaluated the used one. Since the Signal and power harness was the same as the one I already installed I just swapped out the Gauge and was disappointed to see it was still not working. The moment I swapped out the BOSCH Sensor it started working fine for about a day and then went back to being mostly stuck on lean 19.8. Ughh!

I called the place I bought the new unit from and they agreed to treat it as a defective unit and shipped me a brand new one. So 2nd brand new AEM kit. This time I swapped out everything. WB Harness and Power harness. Soldered every connection and wired the power source to come on with the "KEY ON" as it was recommended by some friends who have theirs wired that way without issue.

This one lasted about a week and a half and went bad.

Now I was fed up with this and decided to Return the AEM Kit back for refund and just purchase another WB Sensor kit from Aeroforce (Since I sold my original one).

I got the Aeroforce wired in and after a bout 2 weeks it started reading lean but not quite as bad as the AEM and would still read WOT A/F.

Fast forward to today:

I spoke to my tuner Ted Jannetty about the issue and his theory is this: The WB sensor being located a good bit away in the midpipe, plus the fact that its heating up the moment I hit the start button (which is not starting the car yet. Just moving my seat foward, taking the M6 out of gear, etc. WHen I fire up the engine the Sensor is getting Shocked with the condensation / Water and killing it. Maybe this wasn't a problem during the warmer months. He said to try putting in an inline switch and only turn the sensor on after the car is thoroughly warmed up.

So I bought another WB Sensor but this time I did not buy a BOSH one. The one I got specifically said this about it:

[Performance】The metal shroud does not look as shiny as other Oxygen Sensors. Because it is made of SUS310 high temperature resistant material. And every single item is heated at 1562℉. The high temperature also makes it stand wear and tear.

Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have a no hassle Return policy on the Sensor for 1 year. That right there is something AEM wouldn't even honor. They told me a week old kit with a bad sensor is NOT eligible for warranty.

In addition I am no longer using the secondary o2 bung in the midpipe. I had an exhaust shop weld in a new 02 bung into the headerpipe collector so it's much closer now instead of being so far back.

I changed the wiring so that my 12 volt source only happens after the engine is started and to go above and beyond I have a timing circuit I made that waits one full minute before it powers the WB 02 up. I didn't want to have to flip a toggle and forget to turn it off, etc. So far the timing circuit works like a charm.

So far I've had this for a couple days so we'll see if it holds up. If this sensor fails too then man I give up!

Sorry for being so long. Hope this helps.

.
.

[GT-ER]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Very interesting this topic came up!. I am in the exact same boat and have been plagued with this issue for quite some time.

Check it out - Long read but worth while.

I started of with an Aerofoce WB Sensor Add on so I could read the A/F on my Aeroforce gauge. Never had any issues with it on the stock exhaust. O2 Bung was welded just a few inches away from the factory o2.

I later decided after I got the ARH LT Headers that I wanted a Dual Pod so I could run a dedicated A/F Gauge like the AEM and retire (sale) my Aeroforce WB Sensor kit. I bought one on here used and it worked great for a month or so. I had the WB installed in the factory 02 Bung that ARH installs in their midpipe (typically for the Secondary 02's) The weather started getting cooler here which is about the only thing I can really put my finger on that changed recently and out of the blue one day on my way into the office the AEM suddenly went to FULL LEAN 19.8 and would spastically read the correct A/F for a brief second or two here and there. Nothing I could do to ever get it to read correctly like it used too..

I called AEM and they convinced me to ship my gauge in for them to run a diagnostic which I did but I also decided to purchase a brand new unit while they evaluated the used one. Since the Signal and power harness was the same as the one I already installed I just swapped out the Gauge and was disappointed to see it was still not working. The moment I swapped out the BOSCH Sensor it started working fine for about a day and then went back to being mostly stuck on lean 19.8. Ughh!

I called the place I bought the new unit from and they agreed to treat it as a defective unit and shipped me a brand new one. So 2nd brand new AEM kit. This time I swapped out everything. WB Harness and Power harness. Soldered every connection and wired the power source to come on with the "KEY ON" as it was recommended by some friends who have theirs wired that way without issue.

This one lasted about a week and a half and went bad.

Now I was fed up with this and decided to Return the AEM Kit back for refund and just purchase another WB Sensor kit from Aeroforce (Since I sold my original one).

I got the Aeroforce wired in and after a bout 2 weeks it started reading lean but not quite as bad as the AEM and would still read WOT A/F.

Fast forward to today:

I spoke to my tuner Ted Jannetty about the issue and his theory is this: The WB sensor being located a good bit away in the midpipe, plus the fact that its heating up the moment I hit the start button (which is not starting the car yet. Just moving my seat foward, taking the M6 out of gear, etc. WHen I fire up the engine the Sensor is getting Shocked with the condensation / Water and killing it. Maybe this wasn't a problem during the warmer months. He said to try putting in an inline switch and only turn the sensor on after the car is thoroughly warmed up.

So I bought another WB Sensor but this time I did not buy a BOSH one. The one I got specifically said this about it:

[Performance】The metal shroud does not look as shiny as other Oxygen Sensors. Because it is made of SUS310 high temperature resistant material. And every single item is heated at 1562℉. The high temperature also makes it stand wear and tear.

Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have a no hassle Return policy on the Sensor for 1 year. That right there is something AEM wouldn't even honor. They told me a week old kit with a bad sensor is NOT eligible for warranty.

In addition I am no longer using the secondary o2 bung in the midpipe. I had an exhaust shop weld in a new 02 bung into the headerpipe collector so it's much closer now instead of being so far back.

I changed the wiring so that my 12 volt source only happens after the engine is started and to go above and beyond I have a timing circuit I made that waits one full minute before it powers the WB 02 up. I didn't want to have to flip a toggle and forget to turn it off, etc. So far the timing circuit works like a charm.

So far I've had this for a couple days so we'll see if it holds up. If this sensor fails too then man I give up!

Sorry for being so long. Hope this helps.

.
.

That's pretty awesome. And yes, my problems started in cooler weather as well.

What did you use for a timed circuit?

[Dysan911]

Originally Posted by GT-ER

That's pretty awesome. And yes, my problems started in cooler weather as well.

What did you use for a timed circuit?

I made a little harness using this thing here and a regular relay.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The 12 volt power comes from one of those add circuit fuse taps that go in the underhood fuse box. Its a 12v accessory ON that only works when the car is started. I watched a video of Lethal installing a Dashcam using one of those taps. I can get you the Fuse #.

When the car is started the timer circuit starts a 60 second count. After 60 secs in send power to the yellow wire which I used to energize the Relay and power my WB sensor. You may not even need to use the Relay with the 10amp version of the timing circuit though.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Dysan911

Very interesting this topic came up!. I am in the exact same boat and have been plagued with this issue for quite some time.

Check it out - Long read but worth while.

I started of with an Aerofoce WB Sensor Add on so I could read the A/F on my Aeroforce gauge. Never had any issues with it on the stock exhaust. O2 Bung was welded just a few inches away from the factory o2.

I later decided after I got the ARH LT Headers that I wanted a Dual Pod so I could run a dedicated A/F Gauge like the AEM and retire (sale) my Aeroforce WB Sensor kit. I bought one on here used and it worked great for a month or so. I had the WB installed in the factory 02 Bung that ARH installs in their midpipe (typically for the Secondary 02's) The weather started getting cooler here which is about the only thing I can really put my finger on that changed recently and out of the blue one day on my way into the office the AEM suddenly went to FULL LEAN 19.8 and would spastically read the correct A/F for a brief second or two here and there. Nothing I could do to ever get it to read correctly like it used too..

I called AEM and they convinced me to ship my gauge in for them to run a diagnostic which I did but I also decided to purchase a brand new unit while they evaluated the used one. Since the Signal and power harness was the same as the one I already installed I just swapped out the Gauge and was disappointed to see it was still not working. The moment I swapped out the BOSCH Sensor it started working fine for about a day and then went back to being mostly stuck on lean 19.8. Ughh!

I called the place I bought the new unit from and they agreed to treat it as a defective unit and shipped me a brand new one. So 2nd brand new AEM kit. This time I swapped out everything. WB Harness and Power harness. Soldered every connection and wired the power source to come on with the "KEY ON" as it was recommended by some friends who have theirs wired that way without issue.

This one lasted about a week and a half and went bad.

Now I was fed up with this and decided to Return the AEM Kit back for refund and just purchase another WB Sensor kit from Aeroforce (Since I sold my original one).

I got the Aeroforce wired in and after a bout 2 weeks it started reading lean but not quite as bad as the AEM and would still read WOT A/F.

Fast forward to today:

I spoke to my tuner Ted Jannetty about the issue and his theory is this: The WB sensor being located a good bit away in the midpipe, plus the fact that its heating up the moment I hit the start button (which is not starting the car yet. Just moving my seat foward, taking the M6 out of gear, etc. WHen I fire up the engine the Sensor is getting Shocked with the condensation / Water and killing it. Maybe this wasn't a problem during the warmer months. He said to try putting in an inline switch and only turn the sensor on after the car is thoroughly warmed up.

So I bought another WB Sensor but this time I did not buy a BOSH one. The one I got specifically said this about it:

[Performance】The metal shroud does not look as shiny as other Oxygen Sensors. Because it is made of SUS310 high temperature resistant material. And every single item is heated at 1562℉. The high temperature also makes it stand wear and tear.

Link to product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They have a no hassle Return policy on the Sensor for 1 year. That right there is something AEM wouldn't even honor. They told me a week old kit with a bad sensor is NOT eligible for warranty.

In addition I am no longer using the secondary o2 bung in the midpipe. I had an exhaust shop weld in a new 02 bung into the headerpipe collector so it's much closer now instead of being so far back.

I changed the wiring so that my 12 volt source only happens after the engine is started and to go above and beyond I have a timing circuit I made that waits one full minute before it powers the WB 02 up. I didn't want to have to flip a toggle and forget to turn it off, etc. So far the timing circuit works like a charm.

So far I've had this for a couple days so we'll see if it holds up. If this sensor fails too then man I give up!

Sorry for being so long. Hope this helps.

.
.

Thank you for the honorable mention, I was just going to answer this.

This is a problem I have known about for many years. I learned the hard way on my dyno back on 2003 and my sensors are 450.00 each with no warranty for water shock.

I was turning on my Wide band before starting the car, the O2 Sensor quickly heats to 1500 Plus degrees condensation would build in the pipes during warm up then when I did a dyno pull the condensation would shock and destroy the sensor.

Sensor location is big, the further back in the pipes the more chance of condensation build up before the sensor.

The further forward the sensor is the less chance of seeing any condensation.

1 minute may not be long enough, that is why I suggested a switch, turn it on after the car is fully warmed up and you will never fail another sensor due to condensation.

Ted.