[closs2sx]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Port Injection will go further then the bottom end. It's more complicated then doing +30 Injectors and LPE pump. Both will support 700whp on E60 without going into the motor and that is about as far as I would take the stock bottom end. The tuning is also easier with the DI fuel upgrades vs port. The advantage to PI is that it would allow any amount of E vs still being limited to E60-65 with even with the DI upgrades on stock cam.

I do think in the end PI is a very good solution. But I am just pointing out that it's more complicated on the tuning side then most think. When you learn the tuning side like I have, it gives you a different perspective on things. So I personally prefer to fuel these engines DI only if using the factory ECU. E60 is plenty of octane anyway. And if you dialed the boost back to under 9 psi, you likely could run full E and have a simple OEM reliable setup.

port injection also adds the advantage of cleaning the back of the valves which is the main reason I decided to go that way.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by closs2sx

port injection also adds the advantage of cleaning the back of the valves which is the main reason I decided to go that way.

Glad your having good luck with that. Thanks for the info

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Port Injection will go further then the bottom end. It's more complicated then doing +30 Injectors and LPE pump. Both will support 700whp on E60 without going into the motor and that is about as far as I would take the stock bottom end. The tuning is also easier with the DI fuel upgrades vs port. The advantage to PI is that it would allow any amount of E vs still being limited to E60-65 with even with the DI upgrades on stock cam.

I do think in the end PI is a very good solution. But I am just pointing out that it's more complicated on the tuning side then most think. When you learn the tuning side like I have, it gives you a different perspective on things. So I personally prefer to fuel these engines DI only if using the factory ECU. E60 is plenty of octane anyway. And if you dialed the boost back to under 9 psi, you likely could run full E and have a simple OEM reliable setup.

I was just going to say that any mod that requires a secondary ECM and has to "fool" the primary ECM is a dealbreaker for me, the factory setup is complicated enough already.

If GM had code and tables in the stock Camaro tune for port injection (similarly to how flex fuel is supported but turned off), then I'd consider it, but this sort of ugly multi-ECM hacking is a no-no for me personally.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

I was just going to say that any mod that requires a secondary ECM and has to "fool" the primary ECM is a dealbreaker for me, the factory setup is complicated enough already.

If GM had code and tables in the stock Camaro tune for port injection (similarly to how flex fuel is supported but turned off), then I'd consider it, but this sort of ugly multi-ECM hacking is a no-no for me personally.

Talking to Mike about his new Controller its supposed to be simple plug and play to get it started. I don't know what else needs to be done beyond that.
So I was looking at your signature and you're make over 700 without an alternative fuel system, can you run full E85? I didn't see where you were running big bore pump or a different injector other then probably the Lt4s. My set up (if we get it all figured out) will be real close to yours and surprised you can run much more then about E40.

[toohighpsi]

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

Let's say he gets the 2300 Magnuson and the port injection system.

Assuming everything else is stock, how far can he push that setup and still be reliable?

As stated - the LT1 piston is the weak point, but on full E85 you're good to the low 700 RWHP region on stock parts. going over 750 will most likely break stuff. We ran the Maguson Camaro as well as Mike Jr's Camaro for quite a long time at the 730 RWHP, it's fine as long as you can ensure that you don't get into knock.

The Magnuson car went 9.9s (drag setup) and Mike Jr's went 10.3s (street setup) at that power level.

The difference between the 2300 and 2650 gets much smaller when you can do full E85 - inlet air temperature really isn't as big a factor anymore (the big benefit of the Maggie 2650).

The real benefit to intercooling on a PD blower is knock management (and a slight reduction in input power). Unlike a turbo or centrifugal, the PD will not pump more air as the SC outlet temperature drops - it can't - it's a positive displacement pump. You need a different pulley ratio to move more air.

So with E85 addressing the knock issues up to the limit of the LT1 internal components, I'd say the 2300 would be on a level playing field with the 2650 for that setup. Otherwise the 2300 is a solid 1K RWHP blower on e85 with the right engine build combination.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Talking to Mike about his new Controller its supposed to be simple plug and play to get it started. I don't know what else needs to be done beyond that.
So I was looking at your signature and you're make over 700 without an alternative fuel system, can you run full E85? I didn't see where you were running big bore pump or a different injector other then probably the Lt4s. My set up (if we get it all figured out) will be real close to yours and surprised you can run much more then about E40.

I have the LT4 low+high pressure fuel pump, LT4 injectors as well as the JMS voltage booster, and can run about E60 on the street with no issues.

Here is a dyno video of my car in which Ted explains my setup: https://www.facebook.com/jannettyrac...5032877481682/ (this pull was made with stock pistons and rods still; internals have been beefed up for extra safety since then on the tail end of fixing an unfortunate head manufacturing defect by GM).

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

I have the LT4 low+high pressure fuel pump, LT4 injectors as well as the JMS voltage booster, and can run about E60 on the street with no issues.

Here is a dyno video of my car in which Ted explains my setup: https://www.facebook.com/jannettyrac...5032877481682/ (this pull was made with stock pistons and rods still; internals have been beefed up for extra safety since then on the tail end of fixing an unfortunate head manufacturing defect by GM).

Thx for the info. Appreciate it

[Joshinator99]

Here you go, Greg! Member LiqTenExp is selling his 2300:
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=607382

[laynlo15]

I may still be looking, costs look like they are coming in higher then I anticipated. We'll see by see, haven't given up yet. If it doesn't happen I'll keep looking or just move on to something else.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I may still be looking, costs look like they are coming in higher then I anticipated. We'll see by see, haven't given up yet. If it doesn't happen I'll keep looking or just move on to something else.

If I make the move to the Whipple 3.0 this winter I’ll give you a great deal on my Kong ported 2.9 and it’s already powder coated white to match your car.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

If I make the move to the Whipple 3.0 this winter I’ll give you a great deal on my Kong ported 2.9 and it’s already powder coated white to match your car.

I'm a Maggie guy and I'll see what they end up with, hopfully we get it figured out. After last weekend and the Lt2 performing a little better if this doesn't work out I may stay NA and just see if I can get a few more 10ths out of it and a few more mph. I'm in no hurry, things will fall into place if its meant to be. I did see Liquids add and he recently ask me about the 2300 to 2650 swap. Maybe thats what he has planned. His is an lt4 which requires a adapter plate which Mike has in his Port Injection. It just takes a lot more parts to put together if your just starting out with the head unit.

[laynlo15]

Looks like for now I'll just be staying NA, SC deal didn't work out. Sure I'm disappointed but life goes on and I'll either run across another deal or I'll just make this NA Lt1 go a little faster. Since I'm staying NA for now I'm going to work on getting the air out from under hood so it doesn't get so heat soaked.
I took Lt4s advice on removing the rain guard and under hood liner. It did help getting the heat out for sure. The liner holds heat and the rain guard also restricts the heat from escaping also. Here is a pic of it after it was removed.

[KingLT1]

5 pages in and this is what you give us? Quit being a tight ass and just buy a supercharger. That stuff you removed was put there for a reason and isn't going to gain you much. If you want to go quicker then get the trans tuned. 3 tenths reduction waiting for you right there.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

5 pages in and this is what you give us? Quit being a tight ass and just buy a supercharger. That stuff you removed was put there for a reason and isn't going to gain you much. If you want to go quicker then get the trans tuned. 3 tenths reduction waiting for you right there.

Tough love… I like it!