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Old 03-19-2020, 10:35 PM   #15
Rath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2 View Post
I was running 285 on front and 315 in rear on 2016 SS. The aftermarket rims i bought didn’t sit as well as the stock rims in regards to sitting on the hub not size or at least I could have chosen a better fitment on the front. Had to push them out away from strut tower. By I did have that problem of not being able to push in Center Cap till I added the spacers.
So after you added the spacers hows it holding up? is it something to like check every now and then to re-tighten or anything like that or can I just trust them for what they are made for? I have 285 front and 305 in the rear since you have 315s I think I should be okay with the 5mm on the 305s? Oh and another thing will I be able to add lowering springs in the future? would the spacer affect anything ?

Last edited by Rath; 03-19-2020 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 03-20-2020, 10:38 AM   #16
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Here's a good article from a real engineer explaining why wheel spacers are safe.
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Old 03-20-2020, 11:47 AM   #17
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If it were mine I’d shave it. 5mm is less than 1/4”. The thread relief on the end of that stub is nearly that, which means you’d MAYBE be into one thread to get enough. The ends of those threads do nothing. Get a grinder and just carefully shave it down, then use a Dremel with a small grinding bit and chamfer the edge of the first thread. You don’t even have to do that if you do a clean job of shaving with the big grinder.
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Old 03-20-2020, 11:50 AM   #18
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Machine the back of the centercaps. Not sure why you would mess with all that other stuff. If you pay for return shipping I'll do it for free.
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Old 03-20-2020, 12:27 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by TP2SS View Post
If it were mine I’d shave it. 5mm is less than 1/4”. The thread relief on the end of that stub is nearly that, which means you’d MAYBE be into one thread to get enough. The ends of those threads do nothing. Get a grinder and just carefully shave it down, then use a Dremel with a small grinding bit and chamfer the edge of the first thread. You don’t even have to do that if you do a clean job of shaving with the big grinder.
Thats exactly what the shop told me how grinding it wouldn't do anything. Its just that the shop quoted me 100 to do it, I couldn't do it myself because I have no access to the tools etc
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Old 03-20-2020, 12:49 PM   #20
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I went with a 3 MM spacer on one side of my car. My new Stance wheels and tires stuck out between 1/8" and 3/16" more on one side of the car than the other. I could not figures out why, ti was driving me me nuts. It is the way the car is aligned. The alignment is perfect all the way around, offset is machined perfectly on all 4 wheels and the car handles and tracks laser straight. So I added the 3 MM spacers on the one side and there is still plenty of thread for the lug nuts. Now both sides stick out the same. I really did not want to add the spacers but I could see the difference every time i looked at the car. No problem with very thin spacers.
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Old 03-20-2020, 01:43 PM   #21
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Thats exactly what the shop told me how grinding it wouldn't do anything. Its just that the shop quoted me 100 to do it, I couldn't do it myself because I have no access to the tools etc
Go to harbor freight and buy a cheap grinder and a disc, maybe $40 total. Easy job.

How much are spacers? Deduct that from the $100 the shop wants and there’s your true cost. I’d just have the shop do it and be done with it, no getting your hands dirty and no hassle buying the tools. Consider it part of the expense of upgrading the wheels I guess!
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Old 03-20-2020, 04:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by TP2SS View Post
Go to harbor freight and buy a cheap grinder and a disc, maybe $40 total. Easy job.

How much are spacers? Deduct that from the $100 the shop wants and there’s your true cost. I’d just have the shop do it and be done with it, no getting your hands dirty and no hassle buying the tools. Consider it part of the expense of upgrading the wheels I guess!
Yea I think im going to end up getting it grinded down then but im going to see how i feel about these spacers first since they are on their way lol. Plus if i let them do it they would be liable for it.
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Old 03-20-2020, 05:33 PM   #23
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If you do not have experience with grinding then dont do it. Pay some one. One slip of the grinder and theards are now messed up. probly not so bad that it could not be fixed but thats a big mess either way. So easy to let it slip before you know it. 100 bucks heck just payit or do spacers there fine no problems with them.
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Old 03-20-2020, 05:45 PM   #24
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Do the spacers. Don’t listen to the grinder guys and some saying spacers cost a lot. A Dealership could void a warranty on grinding, it’s possible if you pop a half shaft out.

Here’s what I had for 3 years on my 2016 SS. No problems what so ever.

Can you afford $10.00
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Old 03-21-2020, 01:50 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2 View Post
Do the spacers. Don’t listen to the grinder guys and some saying spacers cost a lot. A Dealership could void a warranty on grinding, it’s possible if you pop a half shaft out.

Here’s what I had for 3 years on my 2016 SS. No problems what so ever.

Can you afford $10.00
Oh yea! I contacted another camaro who has a wide body and used to run the wheels I have and he sent me those exact spacers off amazon and said he never had a problem with them! Idk why but I ended up paying like 20 bucks more for the zl1 add-on versions. Definitely will try out the spacers first before i shave off anything hopefully it won't stick out passed my fender lol
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Old 03-22-2020, 06:56 PM   #26
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So I bought the Rohana RFX11 in gloss back 20x10 in front and 20x11 in the rear. The front fit perfect but the rear does not. When I mean it doesn't fit perfect im just talking about how the axle nut sticks out too far so the center caps won't have a "Flush" fit. I noticed this 2 weeks after I got them put on that my rear wheel center caps looked like they weren't flush so with messing with them there is no way to fix it besides either shaving or buying a spacer what do y'all recommend doing? Also I do on planning to go lower in the future if that affects anything.
Find a nut that will thread on the end of the axle stub. Grind the entire unthreaded portion down to the start of thread. If not enough, thread nut back on, grind more and work nut back on forth way out to the end to smooth out the thread (with oil) and that will allow the nut to come on and off easily. Forget shimming the wheel or the center cap. I have done this with wheel lug studs that have a 1/4 inch of unthreaded stud . Touch up the ends with silver paint so they dont rust.
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