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Old 10-15-2019, 07:19 AM   #1
80sMetalDude
 
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Cranks Does not Fire

Long time poster but been away for a while

Have issue with my 17 1LE that we put a Whipple on it.

Other day went to start and just died after it wanted to start.

Condition:
CRANKS like mad no issues with motor turning etc.
Battery good
Makes no attempts to fire whatsoever just turns turns turns...

Scanner posts P0068

What is VERY INTERESTING is that any type of event I've had on this car ONSTAR is very quick to point out issues and NOTHING. I'm not getting any kind of warnings.

Engine light is now on though.

I tried to disconnect battery and left it about 20m didnt clear anything. Same issue.

It seems confused to me. I see a lot of verbiage about MAP/MAF input voltages etc in some explanations about this code.
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Old 10-15-2019, 09:52 AM   #2
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The most frequent contributors to this code being set are large vacuum leaks as a result of cracked, broken, or otherwise collapsed vacuum lines and hoses. Other sources of vacuum leaks include defective intake and throttle body gaskets, EGR valve and gasket malfunctions, and vacuum operated component (brake boosters, etc.) defects. Other possible causes could include a cracked or disconnected air intake pipe, clogged air filter, a faulty TPS, MAF, and/or MAP sensor, or a defective PCM. Try cleaning the MAF sensor it's the easiest to check first.
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Old 10-15-2019, 10:06 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmofo View Post
The most frequent contributors to this code being set are large vacuum leaks as a result of cracked, broken, or otherwise collapsed vacuum lines and hoses. Other sources of vacuum leaks include defective intake and throttle body gaskets, EGR valve and gasket malfunctions, and vacuum operated component (brake boosters, etc.) defects. Other possible causes could include a cracked or disconnected air intake pipe, clogged air filter, a faulty TPS, MAF, and/or MAP sensor, or a defective PCM. Try cleaning the MAF sensor it's the easiest to check first.
Thx for the response appreciate it.
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Old 10-15-2019, 11:08 AM   #4
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Is it were mine first thing is a thorough visual inspection. Look for anything unplugged. Clear that code, seems like in past projects that code would put the car into reduced power mode. Then check for low side and high side fuel pressure which you can do with hp tuners and I think with a normal scan tool. If that is good check for spark. After that it gets a little harder.
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Old 10-15-2019, 11:53 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by parish8 View Post
Is it were mine first thing is a thorough visual inspection. Look for anything unplugged. Clear that code, seems like in past projects that code would put the car into reduced power mode. Then check for low side and high side fuel pressure which you can do with hp tuners and I think with a normal scan tool. If that is good check for spark. After that it gets a little harder.
Thanks Parish.

I recently moved so that HP Tuner interface from my Whipple kit is AWOL in some box somewhere havent seen it yet since the move several months ago... a little higher priority now tho!

Are there any tricks like hit start and smack a pedal 4x or something?

So I did encounter that low HP mode once at Milan Dragway missed a shift and over rev'd and Onstar caught that and ruined my day (didn't know til later why the damn car was so slow.) LOL
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Old 10-15-2019, 11:55 AM   #6
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is the getting adequate pressure on the high side of the DI fuel pump? I know the longer crank of the LT1 is usually because of the cam driven DI pump building pressure.

Motor trend (or maybe is was car and driver) reported a 30 second crank time when the ambient temperature was in the single digits.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:39 PM   #7
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Better start checking connections and wiring, like somethings come loose (MAF/MAP) or wires have been damaged/pinched.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GM-ACE View Post
Better start checking connections and wiring, like somethings come loose (MAF/MAP) or wires have been damaged/pinched.
Tough thing is the MAP sensor connector is on the rear of the Whipple...next to impossible to get at without pulling SC. There was a very short cable that plagued the early units they may have corrected that since but it was indeed very tight run...in hindsight probably should have lengthened it.

My friend with car trailer going to haul it for me to a motorsports shop where I'll finally get the tune I should have done over a year ago. Had a nice talk with shop today I will update as this progresses.
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Old 10-16-2019, 03:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80sMetalDude View Post
Tough thing is the MAP sensor connector is on the rear of the Whipple...next to impossible to get at without pulling SC. There was a very short cable that plagued the early units they may have corrected that since but it was indeed very tight run...in hindsight probably should have lengthened it.

My friend with car trailer going to haul it for me to a motorsports shop where I'll finally get the tune I should have done over a year ago. Had a nice talk with shop today I will update as this progresses.
LOL, then that's where the problem is. It's NEVER in an easy spot. Should be obvious when you get eyes on it. Maybe a wire got pulled out of the connector, something like that..
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Old 10-16-2019, 06:07 PM   #10
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LOL, then that's where the problem is. It's NEVER in an easy spot.
Aint that the truth....always. We'll see
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Old 01-20-2022, 11:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80sMetalDude View Post
Aint that the truth....always. We'll see
What ended up being your issue?
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Old 01-21-2022, 09:35 AM   #12
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This probably should've gone in the forced induction sub-forum.
superchargers, tunes, and resulting problems are kind of specific once you veer away from stock.
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