01-22-2014, 12:16 PM | #1 |
Drives: ‘13 1LE Join Date: Jul 2013
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Most Cost Effective Way to Hit High 11's and/or Preferably Higher Trap Speeds
Ok, I'm not going to beat around the bush with this question, and I don't think that it has been asked...
The new M5 runs gets through the quarter in 11.9 seconds at 120.3 and these are my target minimum numbers...particularly that trap speed. I'm seriously considering the AGP turbo but I'd really like to target this question at the cam gurus here. Is there any way to match those above numbers with a cam and headers with tune, at significantly lower cost than going with the turbo setup? I do understand that the AGP setup will blow away those numbers previously posted, but now I'm becoming more concerned with my project going over budget, and hence entertaining other options. Hoping the cam gurus chime in, I'm very new in the "muscle car" game. Last edited by Camaro Dude; 01-06-2015 at 01:51 AM. |
01-22-2014, 01:00 PM | #2 |
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Cam and bolt ons. Light suspension work, nice wheel/tire combo. Deep 11s easy with good driving.
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01-22-2014, 01:04 PM | #3 |
Z Bowman
Drives: 2010 2SS (SOLD), 2016 2SS, 2007 Z71 Join Date: Aug 2011
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tvs2300 or what rhino said!!!!
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2016 2SS M6 Bo White Ported MSD, Bo White Ported TB, Flex Fuel Kit, Drag Pack, Rotofab, Ryan Stevens GPI tune, 15” conversion
Fastest Bolt On N/A M6 Record Holder 11.268 @ 120.268 2010 2SS/RS A6 (sold)Mods: Borla Atak Catback, Stainless Power 1 7/8 Headers, TSP VVT-3 Cam, 3200 Yank Stall, CAI Inake, Ported TB, 18" MT ET STREETS |
01-22-2014, 01:06 PM | #4 |
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01-22-2014, 01:19 PM | #5 |
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Intake cam headers tune. Perhaps some wheel hop prevention in the rear suspension.
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01-22-2014, 01:58 PM | #6 |
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01-22-2014, 02:02 PM | #7 |
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When you guys write intake/cam/headers/tune, can you be just a tad bit more specific, perhaps even with a price? (Approx)
AGP I'm looking at $6500-$7000 and I can install it myself. What are we looking at for the cheapest and well thought out NA setup to allow Sledge to keep up with an M5, without making a huge fuss about it if you catch my drift? If the price ends up being not too far off the AGP turbo setup, I'll go with AGP then. Just curious if NA can be done at significant savings, again, referring to my above target numbers. |
01-22-2014, 03:06 PM | #8 |
Writer
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Motion427 is in Eastern Canada and quite knowledgeable, maybe get to know him too.
Local friend did blower, headers, tune, a little suspension, and I don't recall tires and went 11.9@121 with Maggie. I'd think headers/cam/tune and the other little stuff you'll have 11 second potential.
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Camaro Now: Mods for the Masses Part I | Part II 13.15@106 1.95 | 100% Stock 12.37@112 1.85 | + Kooks Headers/Cats + 20" 555R + CAI + BW TB + UDP + Tune 12.06@113 1.70 | + CD 3200 + 18" NT05R + RCR Intake + NE OTR + GPI Tune 11.84@115 1.59 | + 3.91s + Race Star 17x7 Fronts 10.90@125 1.47 | + GPI VVT Cam + BW Ported Heads + CD 3800 |
01-22-2014, 04:08 PM | #9 |
2010 2SS/RS M6
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These are the prices I've uncovered during my research & purchase.
Things I've installed already (self installed): Headers + exhaust = $1500-$2000 CAI = $350-$400 Ported throttlebody = $150 Tune = $500-$600 (dyno tune scheduled for 2 weeks from now at a shop) Sway bars + endlinks (not sure if necessary for drag) = $400-$500 Parts that I've researched and plan to add: Solid subframe bushings = $500 trailing arms / toe rods = $350 3.91 gears & posi mod = $500 (install additional $500 - quote from same shop that will do tune) Cam = $3000 (includes valve springs, oil pump, timing chain, installation, etc) Coilovers = $1500 - 2k I'm sitting at ~$4k invested so far (includes other things like catch can, shortthrow shifter, etc), with another ~$7k planned, but this also includes suspension stuff that you'd want to do either way. This does not include anything towards wheels/tires either, which I would expect to drop ~$2500 more (wheels + tires).
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01-22-2014, 06:50 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
So when I have a customer wanting me to spec a combo to drag with, whether it be bolt ons, or all out, I say buy wheels and tires. The car works better, less harmful on the driveline, and will be much more consistant at the track. Plus the weight reduction from rotating mass will help et and trap speed as well. |
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01-22-2014, 09:52 PM | #11 |
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Adding more power without being able to put it to the ground is useless.
You can dump all the money you want on turbos and still run 12's if you can't hook. ....never mind break a lot of shit without driveline and suspension mods. |
01-22-2014, 11:08 PM | #12 | ||
Search Ninja
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Quote:
Quote:
Go look at the fast times list and see that virtually EVERY car that's in the 11's are running drag tires. That's not just coincidence. The stock tires just aren't sticky enough to pull the 60ft's you need to get the numbers you want. Best thing you could do is to get another set of rear wheels to put some DR's on. That way you can swap them out when you go to the track.
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Halltech CF 102 fed GPI modded intake manifold Bo (knows) White ported TB Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT Pfadted (springs/sways) Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI I once parallel parked a train. |
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01-22-2014, 11:52 PM | #13 |
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Headers/cai/tune, and a small shot of nitrous (wet 75-100) and of course some tires. That should exceed your expectations.
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01-23-2014, 08:16 AM | #14 |
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This is going to prove as a problem. I would recommend to at the very least run a 305/35R20 or 315/35R20 drag radial on those 1LE wheels.
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