BMR Suspension Advice

Nmolina9239 · 07-09-2020, 12:13 PM

Hello,

I am currently sitting on the factory SS suspension, non 1LE or MRC. I was looking to stiffen up the rear suspension now that I am north of 700whp. It would be used on the drag strip seldom, mostly just for driving around on the weekends.

I know BMR offers a ton of options such as trailing arms, control arms, sway bars/links, bushing kits, toe rods, chassis braces etc. I know they they also offer non-adjustable, single and double.

What does everyone recommend as a good start or complete set up? I already have their drive shaft safety loop when I upgraded my driveshaft.

Thanks

kropscamaro16 · 07-09-2020, 12:15 PM

shoot them a message they should still be a sponsor on here

terry_b · 07-09-2020, 12:25 PM

If you're just driving around town, the usual "spirited" type of driving, just be wary of making things too stiff. I love how my car handles, but damn it can be a jarring ride on some of the nasty New England roads where I live.

Keep in mind this is my daily driver:

Subframe bushings or solid mounts are truly a night and day difference.

Go up to at least the 1LE or ZL1 sized sway bars.

Radius arm inserts or Z28 radius arms.

Rear upper control arms can be upgraded to z28 arms if you're going deep.

Stiffer springs or coilovers.

You may want to get some of the more solid trailing arms and control arms considering the power you make.

I found that it just wasn't worth it to me to do a full bushing upgrade. So much effort, plus I like that little bit of compliance considering how stuff my 1LE/Pedders stuff is.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Msquared · 07-10-2020, 12:23 PM

Let's clarify what you mean by "stiffen up the rear suspension." Do you mean increasing rigidity so the power doesn't move things that aren't supposed to move? Or do you mean stiffer wheel rates for less roll and squat? These are very different things.

If the former, then the bushings are the sources of basically all the compliance. Probably the cradle bushings are the biggest improvement for your needs. All the stock control arms are loaded only in tension and compression: all the box section, powder-coated, gusseted goobledeegok in the world isn't going to improve them because they don't need improving. If you really need to get rid of the compliance, then you have to get rid of the rubber bushings and move to rod-end joints. If you're only going to drive on street tires, then traction is limited and your power level really doesn't change the forces the rear suspension will see. OTOH, if you're mounting drag slicks and really torturing the rear suspension, then maybe those would make a difference.

If the latter (increasing wheel rates for less chassis motion), then this is done through stiffer springs and/or sway bars for steady-state wheel rates, and through shocks for transient rates. I urge caution. If you increase only the rear wheel rates, you will decrease rear grip and increase front grip proportionately, and your car will be more prone to oversteer (spinning). While this can be fun, it's probably the exact opposite of what you want with 700hp. If you want to increase rear grip during cornering and corner exit, then you either want to soften rear wheel rates and/or stiffen front rates. A simple front swaybar swap to something stiffer is a good, quick way to accomplish that, maybe along with stiffer front shocks or softer rears.

asthmamax11 · 07-11-2020, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Msquared

s.

Are u referring to a stiffer front or rear sway bar ?

Excellent info in your post btw. Thank you

Msquared · 07-12-2020, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asthmamax11

Are u referring to a stiffer front or rear sway bar ?

I'm sorry, but can you clarify which part of my post you're asking about?

WTFO · 07-17-2020, 08:40 PM

Installed the BMR fully adjustable kits front and rear on my 2018 SS - if you do be prepared for the heim joints to squeak - also the bushings could use a deeper groove to get grease into them pre grease the crap out of everything BEFORE installing set the links to exactly the same length as the stock links and running full soft position on the front and middle position on the rear - if you go with the setup make adjustments in SMALL increments - I drive like a dang madman on the roads and can tell a difference in the heavier bars

07-09-2020, 12:13 PM	#1
Nmolina9239 Drives: 2018 2SS Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Niverville, NY Posts: 117	BMR Suspension Advice Hello, I am currently sitting on the factory SS suspension, non 1LE or MRC. I was looking to stiffen up the rear suspension now that I am north of 700whp. It would be used on the drag strip seldom, mostly just for driving around on the weekends. I know BMR offers a ton of options such as trailing arms, control arms, sway bars/links, bushing kits, toe rods, chassis braces etc. I know they they also offer non-adjustable, single and double. What does everyone recommend as a good start or complete set up? I already have their drive shaft safety loop when I upgraded my driveshaft. Thanks __________________ 2018 Camaro, Whipple Charged, RotoFab Big Gulp, Katech 103mm, LT4 Fueling w/ JMS BAP, GPI Drop in Rods and Pistons, Custom Cam, Ported Heads, Kooks LTHs w/ Green Cats and Mid Pipes, Corsa Extreme Mufflers, DSS Driveshaft & CV Shafts, Might Mouse Catch Can, Circle D T.C. #Team GPI

07-09-2020, 12:15 PM	#2
kropscamaro16 Drives: 2016 1ss camaro Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: 909 Posts: 9,816	shoot them a message they should still be a sponsor on here __________________ 16 1SS NIGHTFALL GRAY METALLIC WITH NPP #BECAUSERACECAR #SAVETHEMANUALS

07-09-2020, 12:25 PM	#3
terry_b Drives: 2014 2SS/RS 1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Hudson, MA Posts: 1,387 View My Garage	If you're just driving around town, the usual "spirited" type of driving, just be wary of making things too stiff. I love how my car handles, but damn it can be a jarring ride on some of the nasty New England roads where I live. Keep in mind this is my daily driver: Subframe bushings or solid mounts are truly a night and day difference. Go up to at least the 1LE or ZL1 sized sway bars. Radius arm inserts or Z28 radius arms. Rear upper control arms can be upgraded to z28 arms if you're going deep. Stiffer springs or coilovers. You may want to get some of the more solid trailing arms and control arms considering the power you make. I found that it just wasn't worth it to me to do a full bushing upgrade. So much effort, plus I like that little bit of compliance considering how stuff my 1LE/Pedders stuff is. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk __________________ 2014 2SS/RS 1LE

07-10-2020, 12:23 PM	#4
Msquared Drives: Chevrolet SS 1LE Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: St. Charles, MO Posts: 1,446	Let's clarify what you mean by "stiffen up the rear suspension." Do you mean increasing rigidity so the power doesn't move things that aren't supposed to move? Or do you mean stiffer wheel rates for less roll and squat? These are very different things. If the former, then the bushings are the sources of basically all the compliance. Probably the cradle bushings are the biggest improvement for your needs. All the stock control arms are loaded only in tension and compression: all the box section, powder-coated, gusseted goobledeegok in the world isn't going to improve them because they don't need improving. If you really need to get rid of the compliance, then you have to get rid of the rubber bushings and move to rod-end joints. If you're only going to drive on street tires, then traction is limited and your power level really doesn't change the forces the rear suspension will see. OTOH, if you're mounting drag slicks and really torturing the rear suspension, then maybe those would make a difference. If the latter (increasing wheel rates for less chassis motion), then this is done through stiffer springs and/or sway bars for steady-state wheel rates, and through shocks for transient rates. I urge caution. If you increase only the rear wheel rates, you will decrease rear grip and increase front grip proportionately, and your car will be more prone to oversteer (spinning). While this can be fun, it's probably the exact opposite of what you want with 700hp. If you want to increase rear grip during cornering and corner exit, then you either want to soften rear wheel rates and/or stiffen front rates. A simple front swaybar swap to something stiffer is a good, quick way to accomplish that, maybe along with stiffer front shocks or softer rears. __________________ Matt Miller 2020 SS 1LE Last edited by Msquared; 07-12-2020 at 08:46 AM.

07-17-2020, 08:40 PM	#7
WTFO Drives: 2018 Camaro 1SS Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Rainier WA Posts: 12	Installed the BMR fully adjustable kits front and rear on my 2018 SS - if you do be prepared for the heim joints to squeak - also the bushings could use a deeper groove to get grease into them pre grease the crap out of everything BEFORE installing set the links to exactly the same length as the stock links and running full soft position on the front and middle position on the rear - if you go with the setup make adjustments in SMALL increments - I drive like a dang madman on the roads and can tell a difference in the heavier bars

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