[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Run them at 24-26PSI cold pressure. Normally you would want to run them MOUNTED with the LETTERS IN because typically they made laps with the LETTERS mounted to the OUTSIDE as is the sponsors requirement usually

Dont let them get above 32PSI Hot pressure. Typically there will be a 6PSI difference between cold pressure readings and hot pressure readings. In SUPER HOT summer conditions I have seen as much as 10 PSI difference. These will be a little quicker than GYSC3R tires but will last considerably longer. They LIKE alot of NEGATIVE camber. I run -3.7 front and -3.0 rear.

They will heat cycle out BEFORE you will see those wear indicators disappear so ALWAYS check them after a track day. I usually get 3-4 full track days out of a set.

You mention that they will heat cycle out before the wear indicators disappear. What exactly are you checking for after a track day then?

Wouldn't the grip just go away and that's when it's time to change them? What other queues do you use to know they are done? Wouldn't you just count the heat cycles?

Lot's of questions I know, I'm getting mine mounted tomorrow.

[Pollock]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

You mention that they will heat cycle out before the wear indicators disappear. What exactly are you checking for after a track day then?

Wouldn't the grip just go away and that's when it's time to change them? What other queues do you use to know they are done? Wouldn't you just count the heat cycles?

Lot's of questions I know, I'm getting mine mounted tomorrow.

I get roughly 6 to 10 sessions out of a set. Depends on the track. When I see cords I change them.

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

You mention that they will heat cycle out before the wear indicators disappear. What exactly are you checking for after a track day then?

Wouldn't the grip just go away and that's when it's time to change them? What other queues do you use to know they are done? Wouldn't you just count the heat cycles?

Lot's of questions I know, I'm getting mine mounted tomorrow.

Well I usually go by monitoring my lap times. If I know for instance I normally run 1.17 a lap and then it gets to where I am in the 1.18's to 1.19's then its getting time to change them out. Sometimes you cant feel the loss in grip but lap times dont lie. If you are running scrubs you dont really know how many heat cycles the tires had to begin with so counting heat cycles is not that accurate either.

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

Well I usually go by monitoring my lap times. If I know for instance I normally run 1.17 a lap and then it gets to where I am in the 1.18's to 1.19's then its getting time to change them out. Sometimes you cant feel the loss in grip but lap times dont lie. If you are running scrubs you dont really know how many heat cycles the tires had to begin with so counting heat cycles is not that accurate either.

Mine were written on the tire so I have a good idea. But thanks for the info, times is a good one to go by. I just got finished mounting the tires. The slicks + Apex wheels 18x11 are 20lbs! lighter than OEM, almost 22 lbs I think on the rear. From about 60 to 40. These are 325/660.

[carguy55]

Where did you buy from?

[Christian1LE]

Was lucky enough to be able to get them from a friend.

[Trackpack]

Originally Posted by Pollock

I get roughly 6 to 10 sessions out of a set. Depends on the track. When I see cords I change them.

This is exactly how I have handled used slicks for more than 20 years. I focus
on getting the most out of consumables. This takes effort in rotating brake pads and tires to get the most even wear. It also requires a precise alignment and a tire pressure regimen. I find slicks to be gradual in nature (they gradually come up to temp (traction) and gradually lose grip (time)). It's pretty easy to tell when the last millimeter of rubber rubs away and the cords are showing.