[ADM PERFORMANCE]

Originally Posted by PRAY

Very good information and I am glad you guys offer a solution. Where were you a week ago. LOL. I did see the harness you are speaking of but it appeared to have plenty of room. It also already has heat shield around it. Are the wires melting inside of the loom? I rechecked everything under the car and around the headers and did not find anything burned or melted. But if it is happening internally then that could be the case. The one wire that does concern me is the knock sensor wire on the drivers side. The heat shield for that one does just about rest on the header tube. I only had the headers on for a day and a half and about 200 miles but to much heat can cause things to go bad fast. That would be one of the fastest fails in history. But the timing does coincide. I am wondering if AFM mode compounds the issue. Even less timing and no fuel for extended periods of time.

I guess I will do a search on the dash going out unless you were being facetious with your last comment. It seems to be a new one on this forum.

As far as the bill goes, I only signed for them to look at the issues I described. I obligated myself to pay a $85 diagnostic fee. They have that no hidden fees guarantee. I am sure there is a bunch of fine print in there but if they went ahead and did a bunch of repairs without price authorization from me like all the other times then we are going to have some issues. I am not sure if there is a legal leg I have to stand on but that is GM's policy, not mine. Like stated above. They may be researching the issues and fixes and waiting to hear back from GM before they hit me with a price. That is fully acceptable in my book. You play, you pay. I understand that and won't say a thing about it.

I will hit you guys up later today about your heat protection parts.

There is a known issues with instrumentation reflash,Im sure it is a TSB by now.

For who ever said coated headers is a must,makes no difference.Still get to hot and still can melt wires.

[PRAY]

Thanks. I will look to see if I can find a TSB on it. That may help my case.

[EFI Tuning]

The black loom beneath the heater core pipes can get close. I check mine this morning and it was about 1/2" away. No damage. I did some measuring with my Fluke temperature probe at various spots with the hood closed at idle and nothing was crossing 150F even an inch away. The fans keep enough airflow on both sides of the engine to keep things cool. I did add some thermal shield tape on the black loom just to be safe At speed there will be plenty of airflow.

The thing to ensure is no direct contact. An inch or greater clearance should be maintained. And for the passenger side loom put something on there before you put the header in just to give you some added protection. Direct contact will ensure a problem.

Tim

[ADM PERFORMANCE]

Time will tell. May want to move this to bolt on section.

It also depends on the header manufacturer as to how far they stick off the block.

A heat shield can only help not hurt.

[PRAY]

Originally Posted by ADM PERFORMANCE

Time will tell. May want to move this to bolt on section.

It also depends on the header manufacturer as to how far they stick off the block.

A heat shield can only help not hurt.

I was thinking of the loom near the block. I briefly remember feeling the loom you are talking about under the coolant lines. I did not double check that one when I was done with the install. It is hidden from sight and I just didn't remember it was there. Upon my final inspection before the trip to the dealer I looked at everything I could see and there was no damage. But I didn't dig under the coolant lines so I have no answer for if it is burned or not. It will be getting heat shield when I get it back though.

[PRAY]

I finally heard from the service guy after two calls. They hadn't touched the dash yet and were out trying to duplicate my converter and rear issues. Why you wouldn't fix the dash first and then go drive around is beyond me. But no mention of warrantee issues at this point. I think I am going to make an appearance down there tomorrow if I don't hear back later today. I just want the dang dash fixed. I can work out the rest later.

[PRAY]

UPDATE:

The main fuse to the BCM keeps blowing. Apparently they have put a few in the car and they blow within one mile. They are saying they are going to have to dig into the electrical on the car now. They have gone through all the TSB's and have contacted GM. There is a short somewhere that they are going to look for. I think I am going to ask to talk to the tech and have him look around that pass side header.

[LibertyHill]

Hope its sorted quick.

[Immoralus]

Mannnn I'm wishing for the best. Hopefully you won't have to come out of pocket for anything.

[PRAY]

Well the dudes at the dealership didn't want to listen so I went down there today and ADM was right. That harness on the frame rail was burnt. It took me about three seconds to find it. There is a bend in the harness sticks out at least an inch from the harness path. That some how at some point made it to the header. I guess the air at over 120 mph in there can slide it out. The good news is that it was barely through three wires. One must have been making contact. I got it off of the header, separated the wires and did what I could to take the bend out. If the bend was an inch forward or aft it wouldn't hit the header. So I am going to wrap each wire, then all of them. Put header wrap around the harness and then put heat tape over that. I may also drill a small hole in the frame and put a zip tie in there. So I have the car back. It is going on E as soon as I get this little job done and get my CAI, 180* stat and catch can back on.

I should be able to get it all dialed in for the track rental Saturday. I just have to make a couple 10 sec passes and be done with this phase of the build. Next will be H/C and then the LT4 blower on 9's.

Thanks for the concern, advice and interest. It was fuse 47 that kept blowing in the engine bay. It goes to the Gateway Module. Not sure how I missed it with my multiple inspections of the fuse boxes the first time.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by PRAY

Well the dudes at the dealership didn't want to listen so I went down there today and ADM was right. That harness on the frame rail was burnt. It took me about three seconds to find it. There is a bend in the harness sticks out at least an inch from the harness path. That some how at some point made it to the header. I guess the air at over 120 mph in there can slide it out. The good news is that it was barely through three wires. One must have been making contact. I got it off of the header, separated the wires and did what I could to take the bend out. If the bend was an inch forward or aft it wouldn't hit the header. So I am going to wrap each wire, then all of them. Put header wrap around the harness and then put heat tape over that. I may also drill a small hole in the frame and put a zip tie in there. So I have the car back. It is going on E as soon as I get this little job done and get my CAI, 180* stat and catch can back on.

I should be able to get it all dialed in for the track rental Saturday. I just have to make a couple 10 sec passes and be done with this phase of the build. Next will be H/C and then the LT4 blower on 9's.

Thanks for the concern, advice and interest. It was fuse 47 that kept blowing in the engine bay. It goes to the Gateway Module. Not sure how I missed it with my multiple inspections of the fuse boxes the first time.

Glad you are on the way to sorting it all out!

[PRAY]

Thanks. I have it all done now. Super easy fix. Just removed the coolant overflow tank and sliced open the "tape" on the loom. I put electric tape on the three wires individually then covered it all in electrical tape and then header wrap. I was also able to rotate the factory zip ties and slide them inward. I straightened the harness and slid it back into the factory retention slots. There are also two slots down there if you want to put extra zip ties. It took about five minutes to get the reservoir out. Should have done it that way the first time.

I also have to say that the dealership was very good to deal with. I just wish they would have listened to what I was saying after ADM chimed in. They just gave me the car back to fix the wiring and said to make another appointment when I was ready for the converter and rear. No fuss. Pretty cool of them.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by PRAY

Thanks. I have it all done now. Super easy fix. Just removed the coolant overflow tank and sliced open the "tape" on the loom. I put electric tape on the three wires individually then covered it all in electrical tape and then header wrap. I was also able to rotate the factory zip ties and slide them inward. I straightened the harness and slid it back into the factory retention slots. There are also two slots down there if you want to put extra zip ties. It took about five minutes to get the reservoir out. Should have done it that way the first time.

I also have to say that the dealership was very good to deal with. I just wish they would have listened to what I was saying after ADM chimed in. They just gave me the car back to fix the wiring and said to make another appointment when I was ready for the converter and rear. No fuss. Pretty cool of them.

They didn't give you any sh*t about the headers and such?

[laynlo15]

Glad to hear Pray, bring it to LS Fest and we can have it out on the track together. I'll be there to see who can go down the track the fastest in the heat. Ha. bring it. Its all fun.