[Team STILLEN]

I run HRE FF15 in 19x10 ET25 square, with a 5mm spacer up front to clear the strut body ribs.

Tire choice since I mainly do track days is a 285/35 Nitto NT01

I run 28-29 cold pressure front and rear.

AutoX is a little different though, more variables at play. You need to get heat into tires faster with shorter time, and I personally feel steering response is very important so going to a taller sidewall tire is not desirable I think, especially in a street tire class.

AutoX is not just tires also, brake pad choice is also key and most importantly, alignment setup.

Just noting this, you can't really just slap on wheels and tires and expect to do well.

[mbar]

Originally Posted by Team STILLEN

I run HRE FF15 in 19x10 ET25 square, with a 5mm spacer up front to clear the strut body ribs.

Tire choice since I mainly do track days is a 285/35 Nitto NT01

I run 28-29 cold pressure front and rear.

AutoX is a little different though, more variables at play. You need to get heat into tires faster with shorter time, and I personally feel steering response is very important so going to a taller sidewall tire is not desirable I think, especially in a street tire class.

AutoX is not just tires also, brake pad choice is also key and most importantly, alignment setup.

Just noting this, you can't really just slap on wheels and tires and expect to do well.

Just to make sure I understand: If you had a wheel that was 19X10 ET20 instead of 25 , you would not need the 5mm spacer? Am I correct?

[Team STILLEN]

Originally Posted by mbar

Just to make sure I understand: If you had a wheel that was 19X10 ET20 instead of 25 , you would not need the 5mm spacer? Am I correct?

yes, a 19x10 ET20 on the front would be fine, on the rear it would not, this is why i just run a spacer so i can still rotate front to rear with the square setup.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by Joe@STILLEN

I run HRE FF15 in 19x10 ET25 square, with a 5mm spacer up front to clear the strut body ribs.

Tire choice since I mainly do track days is a 285/35 Nitto NT01

I run 28-29 cold pressure front and rear.

AutoX is a little different though, more variables at play. You need to get heat into tires faster with shorter time, and I personally feel steering response is very important so going to a taller sidewall tire is not desirable I think, especially in a street tire class.

AutoX is not just tires also, brake pad choice is also key and most importantly, alignment setup.

Just noting this, you can't really just slap on wheels and tires and expect to do well.

Def understand.

Right now I'm trying to find out if the stock 18s can fit the 4 piston brembos or the 6 pistons.

I want to get a dedicated set and a snow tire set...but looking to see if I can fit 18s first without buying like 3-5 grand in wheels.

[mbar]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Def understand.

Right now I'm trying to find out if the stock 18s can fit the 4 piston brembos or the 6 pistons.

I want to get a dedicated set and a snow tire set...but looking to see if I can fit 18s first without buying like 3-5 grand in wheels.

Tire Rack show all the 18 inch options that would fit 4 pot Brembo. For the 6 Pot you will need 19 inch wheel

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by mbar

Tire Rack show all the 18 inch options that would fit 4 pot Brembo. For the 6 Pot you will need 19 inch wheel

Mainly I've been waiting for a chance to check the stock 18 wheels, which is what mine came with.

If it fits then I can add the calipers now, and take my time on wheel choice in the aftermarket realm.

Just making sure I can reuse the stock ones come winter

[12blkgrayRS]

Keep in mind any drastic changes in the car changes your class. bumps you up into the ST or esp class. Most cars in the ESp are running slicks. stay stock, get to know your car, learn to drive with the car in it's current form. You start winning or placing or the class gets too easy make some needed mods, and move up a class. Most mods slow you down or hinder its performance /out other parts or tuning. Once had a guy in my class when I was racing subarus dump 1000's into his car to take the class only making his times slower in some cases. It's mostly driver, although power does help sometimes on some tracks. Just my experience racing since 1988.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by 12blkgrayRS

Keep in mind any drastic changes in the car changes your class. bumps you up into the ST or esp class. Most cars in the ESp are running slicks. stay stock, get to know your car, learn to drive with the car in it's current form. You start winning or placing or the class gets too easy make some needed mods, and move up a class. Most mods slow you down or hinder its performance /out other parts or tuning. Once had a guy in my class when I was racing subarus dump 1000's into his car to take the class only making his times slower in some cases. It's mostly driver, although power does help sometimes on some tracks. Just my experience racing since 1988.

I have zero worries. I thought about F-street, but then CAM was perfect. I can mod what I want, to no limit really, and run it. sure other cars are gonna be decked out, but I'm not in it to be in the tops or do much. I just wanna run.

I could be in a class against all the WEC and IMSA cars, and wouldn't care where I finished, as long as I got the track time.

not sure how it is where you are, but they said they had alotta guys and gals around here, that just do the schools when they pop up, just to be able to run their cars hard, legally, in an environment not on the streets. they don't even come to the competitions.

[12blkgrayRS]

In the HouSCCA region where the competition is fierce!
we don't seems to have a CAM class in our region for some region. It's either F-stock or E-street Prepared. Where the 1LE's and modded SS's play. I was classed at one time in STE for some reason, cant compete with modded civics and miatas. strange that F-stock is a veritable mix of all muscle and sports cars, Bmw's, mustangs, Camaro's V8's AND V6's, doesn't seem fair but the classes on race days are quite large, Up 20 cars on some days. The M3's always slay the entire class. Still driving mine stock. I track mine more than auto-x. more fun. Don't spend 2 hours working in the sun before you run. You only get 3-4 runs.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by 12blkgrayRS

In the HouSCCA region where the competition is fierce!
we don't seems to have a CAM class in our region for some region. It's either F-stock or E-street Prepared. Where the 1LE's and modded SS's play. I was classed at one time in STE for some reason, cant compete with modded civics and miatas. strange that F-stock is a veritable mix of all muscle and sports cars, Bmw's, mustangs, Camaro's V8's AND V6's, doesn't seem fair but the classes on race days are quite large, Up 20 cars on some days. The M3's always slay the entire class. Still driving mine stock. I track mine more than auto-x. more fun. Don't spend 2 hours working in the sun before you run. You only get 3-4 runs.

Are yours more a pdx/HPDE as far as track goes?

So far I've done the schools where you get about 16-20 laps per day.

Looking to do a track day in pdx form soon. Def worried more about brake cooling and trying to find those air scoops that people get on the ss...

Cam up here stands for classic American muscle... works great for those who build a street car and just wanna run what they brung

[mbar]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Are yours more a pdx/HPDE as far as track goes?

So far I've done the schools where you get about 16-20 laps per day.

Looking to do a track day in pdx form soon. Def worried more about brake cooling and trying to find those air scoops that people get on the ss...

Cam up here stands for classic American muscle... works great for those who build a street car and just wanna run what they brung

Are you driving SS or RS ?
As for the RS - You need to verify that the RS Front Grill has incoming air vents / opening that would lead air into the installed brake ducts

See pic (blue) .

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by mbar

Are you driving SS or RS ?
As for the RS - You need to verify that the RS Front Grill has incoming air vents / opening that would lead air into the installed brake ducts

See pic (blue) .

Don't have any of those, right now but I think the big circled vents are for the cooler.

I was told that there were some scoops that mounted and hang below, near the suspension arm. And then there's a shorter or smaller brake dust sheild piece.

Of there's more I need, def need the part numbers!

Cause I thought the air scoops just hung below and funneled air up and behind the dust sheids

[mbar]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

Don't have any of those, right now but I think the big circled vents are for the cooler.

I was told that there were some scoops that mounted and hang below, near the suspension arm. And then there's a shorter or smaller brake dust sheild piece.

Of there's more I need, def need the part numbers!

Cause I thought the air scoops just hung below and funneled air up and behind the dust sheids

Air is passing thru the small circle opening and directed by the black deflector (green circle) to the back of the rotor.
The small black metallic piece is the dust shield.

[12blkgrayRS]

Originally Posted by mbar

Are you driving SS or RS ?
As for the RS - You need to verify that the RS Front Grill has incoming air vents / opening that would lead air into the installed brake ducts

See pic (blue) .

I have an RS and I don't have that either, would that be for the heavy duty brake an cooling package? Foss's it's standard I think.