[brokedad]

So I’ve had my MSD intake for years now and after a few drives it needs to be tightened. First off it was ported by GPI and installed by them so I know it was done correctly. I drive the car and then re torque to 75inch lbs in the correct order every time. I have tried blue thread lock and at this point have also tried lock washers on top of the regular washers with no solution. I’m at the point where I’m ready to epoxy it shut or do the unthinkable and switch to another manifold and loose some horsepower. That’s how tired I am of tightening these bolts. Anyone have any other solution to this manifold coming apart? I talked to the guys at MSD and they have no solutions as well. Sorry for the ranting.

[Kerry]

I had the same problem. I went so far as green penatering green lock tight with nuts on the bottom and little longer bolts. But that did require a little clearenceing on the heads and valve covers. That did seem to work. Its easy to brake it at the throttle body front I did well pull the insert up and cracke it.

I just wnt back the the lt2 intake. car seemed happyer with it over all. Unless ur spinning over 6600 rpm theres no difference in power.

[Spaceme1117]

Maybe vibra-tite. Supposed to be better in environments with lots of vibration.

[Kerry]

I think it intake material is giving lettings the insert move a little. I used washers with the nut on the bottom seemed to stop the problem and stayed tight

[brokedad]

At this point I’ll try about anything. It’s to bad the BTR intake didn’t really pan out. I think it’s more of a vibration issue but also surprised that the blue thread lock hasn’t even slowed it down. I will try the vibration proof lock tight along with a weld on the bottom nut and bolt. Lol. I called the Holley tech and he wasn’t aware of any issue like this and dint really have any solutions. Also did you use a lock washer on the bottom or just a flat washer? Thanks for the help

[Ventmaster]

I'm relying on my memory, so this is a suspect suggestion. Isn't the final pass on the MSD 89in/lbs? Really not sure so double check it!

[Kamero6]

2 possible causes.

1) The threads in the head, or bolt give up with the torque and vibation (rare when plastic pieces are involved)
2) Vibrations create torque peaks and plastic gives up little by little.

For #2 you can use bigger fender washers to increase the area of contact and lower the pressure per square inch in the plastic piece.
You can also try studs instead of bolts. Tha might require installing the manifold and then the studs, if the angle doesn't allow it to slide it in.

This happens a lot when you mate plastic and metal.

Another option is to use a strong loctite and give it less torque than specified. Sometimes less is more

[Kamero6]

Additionally,

You could use Disc spring washers to keep the pressure even if plastic deforms a little bit.


If you need more control over it, this is another bolt option, you might need to modify the intake to make it happen.



Those bolts reach the bottom and torque. then the pressure applied to the pars depend on the spring, washer, rubber washer you use.
VW valve covers use those bolts to prevent over torque and the pressure is applied by the compression of the rubber washer.

[Ventmaster]

Yep, re-checked my "official" MSD install instructs and it sez 89-lb-in for the final pass torque. they also recommend blue thread lock and to re-torque after the first 1,00 miles and again at 3,000. I have to admit after install I didn't look at mine for probably 10K miles when she started idle a little funny (sounded like I had a cam in it!), and sure enuff it needed tightened down a bit. I should also mention it looked fine out of the box (no excess flashing etc..) so mine is not ported.
Good luck!

[Ventmaster]

OK- if you are discussing the perimeter pinch bolts, I am mistaken! Those and the three stanchion bolts are s'posed to go to 75in/lbs. My bad.

[Kerry]

Im talking about the bolts that hold the manifold together. The ones holding it on to the head never came loose. I used flat washer with nut. I did have to clearance the head and valve cover for the washer nut combo underneath

[brokedad]

The bolts going into the head and three bolts in the center of the manifold have been consistently tight and have not been an issue. It’s only the bolts connecting the upper half of the manifold to the lower half. I might just use red lock tight. I have no reason to ever separate the to halves again. None that I can think of right now anyway.

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by brokedad

The bolts going into the head and three bolts in the center of the manifold have been consistently tight and have not been an issue. It’s only the bolts connecting the upper half of the manifold to the lower half. I might just use red lock tight. I have no reason to ever separate the to halves again. None that I can think of right now anyway.

OK- I always get those very numerous bolts mixed up. BUT those bolts that hold that big plastic clam together ARE to be torqued to 89in/lbs final pass.
The bolts that are holding tight for you are 75in/lbs final pass.

I'm sure you're using a good in/lb torque wrench for this job. It is not for Harbor Freight (God love'em!). I got a Tekton model#TRQ-21101 for a good price on Amazon. It seems very precise and accurate.

[brokedad]

In regards to the torque wrench. I can’t recall what the brand is but it wasn’t crazy expensive if I remember around $80-$100. The only issue is they were loosening up from GPI as well. I don’t think they would have used a cheap torque wrench and not done it correctly. But is a valid question. Maybe I will borrow someone’s torque wrench just to see what happens. I don’t have much to loose trying that. Thanks again for the help