[TWG1]

Greetings-

I'm gearing up for my first ever vehicle track day. I did quite a few on sportbikes a few years ago, but I'm trading some safety for a whole lot more money this time around. (I'm learning Sportbikes are WAY cheaper to track).

I've got a freshly broken in 2019 ZL1. I've hawked all the common issues: brake fluid, intercooler bleeding/reservoir, PPF on Front end and front of rear quarters. My aim in this pack list is to build a checklist to take a weekend car to the track, and then back to street duty. I'm limited by driving to/from the track, so I've got to be efficient.

Provided for your use and critique is my current pack/prep list and vehicle health log. Pack/Prep should be self-explanatory - one page for prep checklists and another for pack checklists. Vehicle health is a session-by-session vehicle data log from various sources. I used a version of this on sportbikes and it was a good reference, particularly if you hit multiple tracks. You can use the data to tease out trends and vehicle weaknesses that different tracks induce.

Please let me know if you have any wisdom that can make this a better product. In exchange, I'll update the files and re-post a final version at a later date. Many thanks!

-TWG1

[kropscamaro16]

this is the track checklist i use its great!


https://www.speedventures.com/Faqs/

[Stephen12ZL1]

13/16" lug socket is incorrect for stock lugs...7/8" or 22mm for stock lugs. Include a folding chair in your list. Watch some track videos and concentrate on your driving. Your track list appears excellent!

[TrackClub]

I too have a prep list (lives on my phone), albeit not nearly as extensive.

Items i would add:

Tech inspection form
Waiver form
Painters tape for numbers (in case you dont get what you want).
Windshield glass cleaner (GM foam is awesome!)
Tar and bug cleaner (for cleaning rubber off body)
Fuel cans (optional, read below).
Face cloth (for those hot days )
Phone charger
Set of brake pads (you may never get to use them, but...)
Extra brake fluid
Umbrella

FYI: i carry my stuff in 2 mid size Rubber Maid boxes, one of which is almost always empty so i can stick my shoes, extra clothing, etc there - in case it rains. The other has most of the stuff which lives there permanently (spare fluids, parts, etc). They fit just fine in the trunk.

Note1: unless you run some very sticky tires and add aero a la 1le version, than 0w40 (or 5w40) Dexos2 is fully approved for track duty. This saves tons of money...

Note2: as far as monitoring health et al, i just put display in performance mode, so i can check oil temp on a straight (plus water, etc). Recording these values after each stint seems overkill, unless one is into stats.
I do record number of days on oil, diff/tranny, brake fluid, rotors, pads F and R and tires. This reminds me how much life they have left. Important if going to a far away multi day event. As far as changing them:
Oil - about 5-6 days and never below 50% life left (whatever happens first)
Tranny/diff - i always do them together after 7 days
Brake fluid (as long as it is SRF) Fresh start of season and bleed ince mid season. That's all it needs.
Rotors - never measured thickness and dont know anyone that does. They will crack before they get too thin (assuming a busy track season vs majority of dd). When to replace is a judgement call based on heat checks. Stockers will easily last 12-17 days if not more, pace dependent.

Note3: after each and every stint: check and adjust tire psi, check rotors for cracks, pads for wear, tires and rims for any issues.

Note4: at lunch, after the car has cooled down: check oil and lug nut torque.

Note5: regardless of length of a cooldown lap, i almost always pop the hood after reaching the pits, then either drive a bit around the paddock or an access road to cool everything down, incl brakes. I may stop first to quickly check tire pressures. After I park her i always raise the hood up: not only does it speed up cooling of the mechanical components, but also front brakes. NEVER engage an e brake when brakes hot, lest the R rotors can get warped.

Note6: i almost always carry 3x25L gas cans which fit perfectly across the trunk at the very back. This allows me to add fuel as i wish between the runs. I like it as i prefer my car's balance with less fuel. It also allows me to take fewer trips to a gas station, if one is not available at a track.

Anyhow, hope this helps. Cheers!

[TWG1]

Great notes. @Stephen12ZL1: I've made the correction to lug socket (I've done way too many tire rotations on my F150 and got 13/16" burned into my brain).

@TrackClub: Great nuggets there. Love the tote idea for organization and rainproofing. I need to take some measurements and head to wallyworld to find some. On the gas cans, I'm leery about traveling/storing fuel in the car. Every can I've ever owned has leaked. The new ones are even worse with the EPA-mandated vent systems. Got a brand you like/trust? Also, great concept for air-cooling. I assume you mean you pull the hood release in-car, and drive around with it 'cracked'. Never thought of that. Many thanks.

-TWG1

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by TWG1

Great notes. @Stephen12ZL1: I've made the correction to lug socket (I've done way too many tire rotations on my F150 and got 13/16" burned into my brain).

@TrackClub: Great nuggets there. Love the tote idea for organization and rainproofing. I need to take some measurements and head to wallyworld to find some. On the gas cans, I'm leery about traveling/storing fuel in the car. Every can I've ever owned has leaked. The new ones are even worse with the EPA-mandated vent systems. Got a brand you like/trust? Also, great concept for air-cooling. I assume you mean you pull the hood release in-car, and drive around with it 'cracked'. Never thought of that. Many thanks.

-TWG1

Yes on releasing the hood. It makes cooling down much faster with extra air flow. I use the vented cans, no probs with leaks as 3 of them sit there very tight and secure. Even if i only bring one full i always take 3 for this reason. Unsure of the brand and it may vary up here N of the border anyway? The only drawback is an occasional smell from the vents. But zero leaks per se. Glad you found some of my comments of value. Cheers and wishing you bags of fun!

[TWG1]

Gents- Thanks for the replies. Provided for shared use is the improved version, inclusive of the feedback you've provided. If anyone else has some packing tips out there, please share!

[TrackClub]

I think that with time, you'll find that certain items permanently "live" in your Rubber Maid style box(es), so the actual check list won't be as long

I think you'll also find that your alignment camber values will be inadequate to maintain even tire wear. Common wisdom has been to max F camber on stock bolts vs follow GM manual recommendations. Fyi my values are 2.6F and 1.6R and my tire wear has been very good.

I'd also add Rockauto.com as a excellent source of Camaro consumables, especially brake parts.

Note, that both the tranny and diff fluid life should be measured in track hrs or days vs miles. Per the manual, tranny at 15hrs and the diff at 24hrs, but i change both after 7 track days (about 14 hrs) Note that the diff is an integral part of Camaro handling and works very hard on a road course. Even after 7 days the fluid comes out looking like tar. NB if you have an auto tranny, its level has to be changed at a dealer before any track duty.

Also, switching alignment back to street after each track event will add tons of $ to your budget and imo is not at all necessary. Bleeding brakes before EACH track event is also not necessary even with lesser fluids than SRF.
One item worth paying attention to "health wise" is brake pad wear. They wear about 1mm per track day (your experience may vary). When they equal the backing plate they are about 50% done and will wear faster. So, it is worth recording number of track days and checking how much pads are left before an event.

Cheers!