[Clos.95]

Hello guys, I’m new to the forums and couldn’t find anything related to this.
I have a 2017 1SS A8 currently have flex fuel and a KN drop in filter and nittto drag radials on stock rims. I haven’t been able to hit the strip yet but bone stock did 12.1@115. Im expecting a 11.8-9 now with drag radials and E85. But I’m looking at future mods, I was thinking a 17’ drag pack, a big stall converter and a trans tune will get me into the 11.3s is that realistic ? Does anyone have a similar setup might do a few more bolt ons such as cat delete pipes and a rotofab maybe the new vararam intake and retune. Thanks for input

[JaxChris]

Wouldn't jump to stall converter until you've reach the point where you've already done all the motor work you want and it's time to sacrifice a little drivability for better launches.

[JonD]

#1 if your in Cali don’t do exhaust! LMAO

CAI, Manifold, Tune & Slicks/Skinny’s
Your at a point where nothing is going to be cheap

[wnta1ss]

My own 2017 SS was running 12.0s@114 bone stock. Modded with 17" drag radials on back, E85 tune with TCM tuning, V-Max ported throttle body, drop-in K&N air filter, and a driveshaft loop, I ran 11.34@119. Added a lighter battery to offset the added weight from the driveshaft loop and then ran 11.31@120. So I think that your ET goal is within reach.

You will need to tune the TCM if you want an aftermarket torque converter anyway. Therefore in the spirit of bang for buck, I'd suggest doing the TCM unlock and tune first, and see if you can meet your ET goals without the expense of the torque converter.

[mlee]

Originally Posted by JaxChris

Wouldn't jump to stall converter until you've reach the point where you've already done all the motor work you want and it's time to sacrifice a little drivability for better launches.

I'll disagree with this one. Especially if you know you're going to cam up later get the Tq Converter 1st.

Everyone waits until they have to have it but it's really an awesome 1/4 mod when talking bang for buck. Also, don't think you're sacrificing driveability at all. Maybe gas mileage.

[6spdhyperblue]

Msd intake with 95mm tb. Carb approved

[aai]

Bang for the buck? check the for sale ads for oem ported intake manifolds and throttle bodies. Or send yours out
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/searc...rchid=56519354

[Clos.95]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate it !

[Clos.95]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

My own 2017 SS was running 12.0s@114 bone stock. Modded with 17" drag radials on back, E85 tune with TCM tuning, V-Max ported throttle body, drop-in K&N air filter, and a driveshaft loop, I ran 11.34@119. Added a lighter battery to offset the added weight from the driveshaft loop and then ran 11.31@120. So I think that your ET goal is within reach.

You will need to tune the TCM if you want an aftermarket torque converter anyway. Therefore in the spirit of bang for buck, I'd suggest doing the TCM unlock and tune first, and see if you can meet your ET goals without the expense of the torque converter.

Thanks for the feedback. Nice numbers! Next mods were going to be primary cat deletes already have secondary cat deletes, waiting on the Vararam intake rotofab just doesn’t do it for me, ported Throttle body and a retune hoping to pick up another 25-30whp with those small mods, then save up for drag pack then ECU tune. Another goal of mine is trapping in the 120s is that possible with these few mods? Thanks

[Clos.95]

Originally Posted by JonD

#1 if your in Cali don’t do exhaust! LMAO

CAI, Manifold, Tune & Slicks/Skinny’s
Your at a point where nothing is going to be cheap

Kinda winging it right now have secondary cat delete and 3’ pipe welded in where muffler was haha if I’m light on throttle it goes into 4 cylinder mode pretty quick and quiets down.

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by Clos.95

Thanks for the feedback. Nice numbers! Next mods were going to be primary cat deletes already have secondary cat deletes, waiting on the Vararam intake rotofab just doesn’t do it for me, ported Throttle body and a retune hoping to pick up another 25-30whp with those small mods, then save up for drag pack then ECU tune. Another goal of mine is trapping in the 120s is that possible with these few mods? Thanks

Oh, so you have flex fuel tune, drag radials, drop-in air filter, secondary cat delete, and muffler delete thus far?

If you want a CAI, I'd favor the Rotofab, because it's the only one thus far that's proven not to mess up the MAF calibration.

The ported throttle body that I had on the car (V-Max) honestly did not seem to do anything noticeable. So I have to let you know, the idea that you will get 25-30whp from a ported throttle body and CAI seems rather optimistic to me.

The TCM tune can help quite a bit, couple of tenths easily. Too bad it's such a pain in the 2017 and up, but I think it's pretty important to running decent times in the A8, so I'd put it at a high priority. In the spirit of bang for buck mods for 1/4, I'd place it above the lighter front wheels, ported throttle body, or CAI in importance.

[KingLT1]

A higher stall converter offers the least bang vs buck on this platform. 1200.00 plus labor and fluid for 1-2 tenth resuction is not what I would consider a value leader but it's still a good mod. The main issue is the aftermarket converters do not lock up until 4th gear where the stock converter locks all gear so it is more efficient. On the other hand the stock converter has shudder issues, but it can easily put a bolt-on e85 car in the 10's. Some setups require upgrading the converter such as aggressive heads/cam setups. Some FI builds work better with a higher stall as well.

The best bang for buck mod IMO on this car is e85 and a flex fuel sensor followed by ported intake manifold and throttle body. However, If you plan on going heads cam then just skip that and go right to a ported MSD and LT5 tb.

The single most important thing for these cars is finding the correct tuner which is not that hard with a little research. Do not take these cars to your average PRO LSx shop. Do some research because the tuning to make these cars work is critical.

Here are the bolt-on mods I had:

Rotofab dry-400.00
Pray ported Intake manni / Throttle body -550.00
Ca performance cat deletes- 250.00
SMG flex sensor-160.00
Pray performance base tune (I had to write and finished by me)-250.00
HPtuner credits- 150.00
Nitto NT555r 305/35/20-600.00

I don't track my car, but I have a couple nice concrete back roads in a industrial park I test on.

Bone stock my best was: 12.4 1/4mi 4.2 0-60

Best with mods listed above: 11.5 1/4mi 3.4 0-60

So for 2360.00 I dropped 9 tenths off my 1/4 time.

Still plenty left to do if you want to pursue bolt-on power but the bang for buck declines fast.

Stall converter- 1200.00
TSP 2" headers- 900.00
Ati balancer- 460.00
Drag wheels/tires- 2000.00 depending could be more or less
Lithium battery- 250.00
Race seat and bracket-500.00ish seat plus 160.00 for the bracket.
Aero space brakes front/rear- 2000.00

These mods will net another 6 tenths or so reduction.

[Clos.95]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Oh, so you have flex fuel tune, drag radials, drop-in air filter, secondary cat delete, and muffler delete thus far?

If you want a CAI, I'd favor the Rotofab, because it's the only one thus far that's proven not to mess up the MAF calibration.

The ported throttle body that I had on the car (V-Max) honestly did not seem to do anything noticeable. So I have to let you know, the idea that you will get 25-30whp from a ported throttle body and CAI seems rather optimistic to me.

The TCM tune can help quite a bit, couple of tenths easily. Too bad it's such a pain in the 2017 and up, but I think it's pretty important to running decent times in the A8, so I'd put it at a high priority. In the spirit of bang for buck mods for 1/4, I'd place it above the lighter front wheels, ported throttle body, or CAI in importance.

Yeah current “mods” are drop in filter which I don’t personally consider a mod didn’t feel anything haha Secondary cat delete didn’t feel anything either
E85 yes felt more power thru whole power curb and nitto drag radials.
Rotofab gains are usually 10-15whp from what I’ve seen with a tune and Vararam claims they’ll out perform Rotofab and I’ve ran their intake on my C5 was definitely worth it so I’m assuming 15whp from VR, also heard ported tb is around 5whp and primary cat deletes are around 10whp that’s why i was assuming 25-30whp, correct me if I’m wrong I’m still learning. I’d retune car with these mods. And I meant TCM tune earlier not ECU haha I might save the $150 for a ported Tb and use that towards the TCM unlock and tune a local tuner in Los Angeles quoted me $650 for TCM unlock and tune and car would have to sit for 2 weeks, that’s why I was considering doing the converter as well trans tune and converer all in would be around $2300, and should take off .5 from 1/4 but looking back seems like it’s not worth the money.

[Clos.95]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

A higher stall converter offers the least bang vs buck on this platform. 1200.00 plus labor and fluid for 1-2 tenth resuction is not what I would consider a value leader but it's still a good mod. The main issue is the aftermarket converters do not lock up until 4th gear where the stock converter locks all gear so it is more efficient. On the other hand the stock converter has shudder issues, but it can easily put a bolt-on e85 car in the 10's. Some setups require upgrading the converter such as aggressive heads/cam setups. Some FI builds work better with a higher stall as well.

The best bang for buck mod IMO on this car is e85 and a flex fuel sensor followed by ported intake manifold and throttle body. However, If you plan on going heads cam then just skip that and go right to a ported MSD and LT5 tb.

The single most important thing for these cars is finding the correct tuner which is not that hard with a little research. Do not take these cars to your average PRO LSx shop. Do some research because the tuning to make these cars work is critical.

Here are the bolt-on mods I had:

Rotofab dry-400.00
Pray ported Intake manni / Throttle body -550.00
Ca performance cat deletes- 250.00
SMG flex sensor-160.00
Pray performance base tune (I had to write and finished by me)-250.00
HPtuner credits- 150.00
Nitto NT555r 305/35/20-600.00

I don't track my car, but I have a couple nice concrete back roads in a industrial park I test on.

Bone stock my best was: 12.4 1/4mi 4.2 0-60

Best with mods listed above: 11.5 1/4mi 3.4 0-60

So for 2360.00 I dropped 9 tenths off my 1/4 time.

Still plenty left to do if you want to pursue bolt-on power but the bang for buck declines fast.

Stall converter- 1200.00
TSP 2" headers- 900.00
Ati balancer- 460.00
Drag wheels/tires- 2000.00 depending could be more or less
Lithium battery- 250.00
Race seat and bracket-500.00ish seat plus 160.00 for the bracket.
Aero space brakes front/rear- 2000.00

These mods will net another 6 tenths or so reduction.

Looking into it I might wait on converter for a while.

I was thinking about doing the pray intake and Tb combo don’t know if it’s worth it tho, did you feel a difference? I saw he dynoed it and made 17whp with no tune, that seems impressive paired with a rotofab should be close to 30 with a tune.

My best 0-60 in car timer since E85 is 3.9 on the same nt555r as you using launch control. 3.4 is sick. Any pointers?

I’m money limited right now and can’t do everything I want as far as performance parts however I do a have a small budget set aside for car parts just tryna use to as best as I can. If I had to pick between pray Tb and intake for $550 and I’d have to pay someone to install it or TCM tune for $650 it’s looking like the TCM tune is definitely the route to go.