[oOKhanhOo]

Here's my setup: I am planning to use the PAC AP4-GM61 module to get the RCA clean-signal output straight from the 8" factory HU.

It will then hooked on to the Rockford Fosgate P1000X5 amp via the RCA.

The output to the speakers will be:

FRONT: RF P165-SI components with x-over built into the basket of the woofers/tweeters.

1) Now here's my question, on the amp it has LP - AP - HP. Do I set it to AP since the x-over are built in the front speakers? or should I still set it HP?

REAR side panels: RF P1650 Coaxial 2-Way

2) This would be set it to AP also?

SUB: I haven't fully decide on which sub I want but it will be a ported enclosure. Obviously this channel will be set to LP.

3) On the amplifier, there are knobs for FRONT and REAR input level: 12.0V to 0.15V. How do I know where to set this at? EDIT: PAC Module state that it delivers variable 5V outputs.

As you can tell I am a newbie. This is my first and attempt to replace all the 6-speakers in my 1SS 1LE (NO FACTORY AMP).

EDIT: I have NOT purchased the amplifier nor speakers yet. I just bought the PAC AP4-GM61 module.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by oOKhanhOo

Here's my setup: I am planning to use the PAC AP4-GM61 module to get the RCA clean-signal output straight from the 8" factory HU.

It will then hooked on to the Rockford Fosgate P1000X5 amp via the RCA.

The output to the speakers will be:

FRONT: RF P165-SI components with x-over built into the basket of the woofers/tweeters.

1) Now here's my question, on the amp it has LP - AP - HP. Do I set it to AP since the x-over are built in the front speakers? or should I still set it HP?

REAR side panels: RF P1650 Coaxial 2-Way

2) This would be set it to AP also?

SUB: I haven't fully decide on which sub I want but it will be a ported enclosure. Obviously this channel will be set to LP.

3) On the amplifier, there are knobs for FRONT and REAR input level: 12.0V to 0.15V. How do I know where to set this at?

As you can tell I am a newbie. This is my first and attempt to replace all the 6-speakers in my 1SS 1LE (NO FACTORY AMP).

EDIT: I have NOT purchased the amplifier nor speakers yet. I just bought the PAC AP4-GM61 module.

IMO, see one, do one, teach one.

If you have never done his before, I would recommend taking it to a shop and having a professional do this for you, and ask if you can watch during the install and learn that way.

[oOKhanhOo]

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

IMO, see one, do one, teach one.

If you have never done his before, I would recommend taking it to a shop and having a professional do this for you, and ask if you can watch during the install and learn that way.

I feel this is something I can handle. Just have a few questions. I am a DIY-er, installation is easy for what I can handle. It’s just the setting up the amplifier is something I’m not very knowledgeable about. I’m willing to learn though and have been researching the last month on this site audio builds. Worse case is I pay an audio shop to tune the amplifier for me.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by oOKhanhOo

I feel this is something I can handle. Just have a few questions. I am a DIY-er, installation is easy for what I can handle. It’s just the setting up the amplifier is something I’m not very knowledgeable about. I’m willing to learn though and have been researching the last month on this site audio builds. Worse case is I pay an audio shop to tune the amplifier for me.

ok fair enough:

FRONT: RF P165-SI components with x-over built into the basket of the woofers/tweeters.

1) Now here's my question, on the amp it has LP - AP - HP. Do I set it to AP since the x-over are built in the front speakers? or should I still set it HP?

DEFINITELY set this to HP. If you send a full signal to that, it will see 20Hz - 20k hz, and you will likely blow the speakers. even with a cheap amplifier, the wiring in the basket won't be enough to remove those low frequencies.

REAR side panels: RF P1650 Coaxial 2-Way

2) This would be set it to AP also?

Same thing, same reason as above, set to HP

SUB: I haven't fully decide on which sub I want but it will be a ported enclosure. Obviously this channel will be set to LP.

YES, LP for the sub

3) On the amplifier, there are knobs for FRONT and REAR input level: 12.0V to 0.15V. How do I know where to set this at?

This is the "gain" on the amplfier. Ideally you want to match this to the output of the preceding source. In this case, that would be the PAC AP4-GM6.

How are you going to send the signal from the PAC unit to the amplifier? I am assuming you will be using the RCA outputs which are low voltage, so set the amplifier gain to around 5v or 4v. On the back of the PAC AP4-GM6, there are toggle switches to change the output from 5v to 4v. you want to match the gain on the amplifier to that.

The most important part to all of an install on this vehicle is the PAC AP4-GM6 unit. Prior to this and the NAVTV-GM650 unit., installs on this car were much much more difficult.

My install ran around $7500, but I am using moderate level amplifiers, high end drivers (speakers) the NAV TV GM650, two amplifier, and a Hertz Audio H8 DSP/DTA.

[oOKhanhOo]

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

ok fair enough:

FRONT: RF P165-SI components with x-over built into the basket of the woofers/tweeters.

1) Now here's my question, on the amp it has LP - AP - HP. Do I set it to AP since the x-over are built in the front speakers? or should I still set it HP?

DEFINITELY set this to HP. If you send a full signal to that, it will see 20Hz - 20k hz, and you will likely blow the speakers. even with a cheap amplifier, the wiring in the basket won't be enough to remove those low frequencies.

REAR side panels: RF P1650 Coaxial 2-Way

2) This would be set it to AP also?

Same thing, same reason as above, set to HP

SUB: I haven't fully decide on which sub I want but it will be a ported enclosure. Obviously this channel will be set to LP.

YES, LP for the sub

3) On the amplifier, there are knobs for FRONT and REAR input level: 12.0V to 0.15V. How do I know where to set this at?

This is the "gain" on the amplfier. Ideally you want to match this to the output of the preceding source. In this case, that would be the PAC AP4-GM6.

How are you going to send the signal from the PAC unit to the amplifier? I am assuming you will be using the RCA outputs which are low voltage, so set the amplifier gain to around 5v or 4v. On the back of the PAC AP4-GM6, there are toggle switches to change the output from 5v to 4v. you want to match the gain on the amplifier to that.

The most important part to all of an install on this vehicle is the PAC AP4-GM6 unit. Prior to this and the NAVTV-GM650 unit., installs on this car were much much more difficult.

My install ran around $7500, but I am using moderate level amplifiers, high end drivers (speakers) the NAV TV GM650, two amplifier, and a Hertz Audio H8 DSP/DTA.

Thanks!! Yes, I will be getting the signal from the PAC to the amplifier( RF P1000X5). The PAC can switch between 5V and 4V via dip switch, are there any benefits using one over the other?

Now, I just found out the Tweeter has to be connected to the woofer. I thought the tweeter had its own crossover built, but it's actually built into the woofer. My original plan was just tap into the existing tweeter factory wires, so I don't have to run new wires from the door to the dash. How difficult is it to run new speaker wire from door into the cabin and up to where the factory tweeters are?

or will it be easier if I just bought a separate tweeter with its own crossover? The tweeter factory wiring taps into the door speakers wire from factory.

[drfeelgood]

The PAC can switch between 5V and 4V via dip switch, are there any benefits using one over the other?

Not really. That can be controlled for via the gain. In general, if there is a mismatch between input voltage an the amplifier output, you will either underpower your speakers or overpower them way too soon. There is a method to check for amplifier clipping, but for you, to keep it simple, just match the output from the PAC (5v or 4v) with the setting on the amplifier.

Now, I just found out the Tweeter has to be connected to the woofer. I thought the tweeter had its own crossover built, but it's actually built into the woofer. My original plan was just tap into the existing tweeter factory wires, so I don't have to run new wires from the door to the dash. How difficult is it to run new speaker wire from door into the cabin and up to where the factory tweeters are?

No, this is a simple component setup, without outboard passive crossovers. You have a few options.

1. Spend more money, get an active crossover unit (HertzH8, Audison bitone, etc.) and run your signal from the Pac Unit >>active EQ >> amplifiers >> speakers . Using this method you will need more amplifiers as each channel leaving the amp would individually power the speakers and tweeters separately

2. purchase a bespoke crossover (http://store.12velectronics.com/legatia-l2x-vertically-biamplified-passive-crossover/) like this that will separate the frequencies for you at certain cutoff point (sometimes this is at 5k hz)

3. use the setup as this speaker group is designed, with the built in tweeter attenuation in the basket. and run the wires from the amp to the woofer, then from the woofer to the dash. You would need to remove the rubber waterproof grommets in the door where all wires enter, but it can be done.

[JaxChris]

I would like to point out, that he is using the PAC module, it is a limited 3-band DSP and won't send 20-20k to all channels by default. And honestly he is better setting the correct HP filter on the DSP before it ever gets to the amp and leaving the amp on All Pass (AP).

I don't think everyone needs to go full active on the front stage unless they are prepared to spend the proper coin on it -- which most are not. And I would really only go full active if I was installing 3-ways because midrange and midbass should be separate.

Instead of getting the Rockfords, I would suggest using Kickers (if you want to stay on budget brands, nothing wrong with that). The SPL is just 1 lower but the only inline crossover is on the tweeter. Since you're not going 3-way, you can create a bandpass on the PAC DSP that rolls over the low end and highest end (some don't care for the highest pitches -- especially if you're using metal tweeters). The inline filter on the Kicker tweeter will be your HPF at 5k and the passive crossover does LPF at 5k on the woofer.

For the rears, shape your bandpass at the DSP as well and take a little more of the highs out so you don't have to play with the fader so much to keep the stage inside or in front of your head.

If you plan to swap the center channel, which I recommend for those that like good high staging, shave a little of the low end off of your component band pass to match it up. You'll get good front fill and it will elevate the midrange above the midbass for some perceived separation.

Lastly, I wouldn't get into messing with running new wires to your doors by yourself, that is definitely a pro job because doing it right involves repinning the crowded bulkhead connector on both ends.