[JoeCarSeller]

I'm getting close to the stereo swap for my Bose. I was looking at getting adapters for the front doors in swapping from 6x9 to 6.5" components. That puts me at needing a door adapter and an adapter for the tweeters in the dash. I was going to look at crutchfield but was wondering if there's a better option?

Also where did you guys find a good write up or video for installing the new speakers all around? I haven't found anything comprehensive from searching...

[oOKhanhOo]

Metra sells speaker adapters. Tweeters, you have to make a your own mount. Buy 2x2 1/4 MDF from Home depot for $5.

[SilverCamaroVert]

I agree with oOKhanhOo, I would just make them but here is another source FWIW: https://store.audiodesignscg.com/pro...aker-adapters/

[StPeteHyper2.0]

Dash.. you have to make your own. 1/4 board and trace the stock speaker like said above.

Door adapter can be found on Ebay or any sound store.
Metra 82-3018 for 6.5
Metra 82-3017 for 6x9

I also tried the Metra 82-3016 for the dash but they dont fit.

[StPeteHyper2.0]

Originally Posted by SilverCamaroVert

I agree with oOKhanhOo, I would just make them but here is another source FWIW: https://store.audiodesignscg.com/pro...aker-adapters/

I had checked with this place about selling dash adapters separately and never got a response. I already had the metra adapters at the time.

[drfeelgood]

In the audiophile world, most guys run speakers actively crossed over as opposed to passively crossed over. There are many benefits to this, namely ability to control a full 32band Eq for each speaker , and to control the frequency at which the midbass and midrange/tweeter is crossed over.

The factory dash speakers are 2.5" midrange speakers playing frequencies all the way up to 20KHz. Instead of using smaller profile tweeters, they use these full range speakers which typically don't reproduce high frequencies efficiently. But, by placing them in the dash, they are firing "off glass" which helps to effectively amplify higher frequencies.

When you place small profile (1") tweeters in the dash (like the ones that come with components) where they were not designed to be, firing off glass, you often times end up with resonance at certain frequencies that can be ear piercing. Running an active crossover can help reduce this sound be selectively lowering those frequencies.

For those that don't want to run active crossovers, and don't want to have ear piercing tweeters , another option is to replace the factory 2.5" midrange speakers with upgraded aftermarket 2.5" speakers.

I run a quasi three way front stage with :

1" tweeters firing on axis at me
2.7" midrange drivers in the factory dash locations
6.5" midbass drivers in the doors.

These are the current midrange drivers I am using:
http://store.12velectronics.com/u2-2...e-speaker-set/

And these are the ones I am upgrading to:
http://store.12velectronics.com/lega...e-speaker-set/

Both are a direct fit replacement speaker upgrade for the factory location, for anyone interested in just upgrading speakers. I never recommend just upgrading speakers , as the factory speakers may be 2ohm and most replacement speakers are 4ohm, as are these. So while the speaker is an upgrade, it will have half the watts powering it due to a higher ohm load.

[headgamez]

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

In the audiophile world, most guys run speakers actively crossed over as opposed to passively crossed over. There are many benefits to this, namely ability to control a full 32band Eq for each speaker , and to control the frequency at which the midbass and midrange/tweeter is crossed over.

The factory dash speakers are 2.5" midrange speakers playing frequencies all the way up to 20KHz. Instead of using smaller profile tweeters, they use these full range speakers which typically don't reproduce high frequencies efficiently. But, by placing them in the dash, they are firing "off glass" which helps to effectively amplify higher frequencies.

When you place small profile (1") tweeters in the dash (like the ones that come with components) where they were not designed to be, firing off glass, you often times end up with resonance at certain frequencies that can be ear piercing. Running an active crossover can help reduce this sound be selectively lowering those frequencies.

For those that don't want to run active crossovers, and don't want to have ear piercing tweeters , another option is to replace the factory 2.5" midrange speakers with upgraded aftermarket 2.5" speakers.

I run a quasi three way front stage with :

1" tweeters firing on axis at me
2.7" midrange drivers in the factory dash locations
6.5" midbass drivers in the doors.

These are the current midrange drivers I am using:
http://store.12velectronics.com/u2-2...e-speaker-set/

And these are the ones I am upgrading to:
http://store.12velectronics.com/lega...e-speaker-set/

Both are a direct fit replacement speaker upgrade for the factory location, for anyone interested in just upgrading speakers. I never recommend just upgrading speakers , as the factory speakers may be 2ohm and most replacement speakers are 4ohm, as are these. So while the speaker is an upgrade, it will have half the watts powering it due to a higher ohm load.

Thanks for this info!!! Can you post a pic of your tweeter setup??

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by headgamez

Thanks for this info!!! Can you post a pic of your tweeter setup??

This is the current setup

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519060